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    Cam chain tentioner noise

    I would like to know what would make a cam chain tentioner noisy after reinstalling it. I did turn the engine over when it was out. Is the chain slack on the wrong side of the cams now? 8-[ This noise happens when their is no tourque on the crank. I backed off the nut a bit the other day and it was fine for 20 min ride but the next day It came back.



    #2
    Are we talking about a GS550E?

    Did you unlock the cam chain tensioner after refitting it?

    What condition were the chain guides when refitted?

    It would be possible to the chain to jump or have slack in by turning the engine over with out the tensioner but it would through the engine timing off so far that it would be unlikely to start.

    Can I ask why you fitted a new chain? How much engine work was done?

    Suzuki mad

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      #3
      Yes it is a 550e, I just took it out to replace starter and put it back in. I did turn the adjuster and when that did not work i backed off the nut about a half turn and that worked for a short time. What should I do next?

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        #4
        With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ¼ turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

        With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

        Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

        Loosen the slotted bolt ¼ turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ¼ turn.

        While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

        Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.

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          #5
          Thanks for the information I will try that. Can I turn the crank from the right side of the block?

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            #6
            That's where you want to turn it from, off the end of the crank.

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              #7
              Thanks Billy

              Thank you for your time, problem solved! :-D

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                #8
                Click here cam chain tensioner
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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