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setting float height?
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justmount1
setting float height?
ok before i get to putting carbs back together how am i supposed to set the float height if there are only pins to hold them?Tags: None
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Ed
To measure is to know.
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Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
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Notice on the pic that you measure on the stepdown of the hinge on the float body.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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OK, to anwer your question along with the illustrations provided above:
Yes, they are attached by a pin. As you turn the carbs upside-down, notice that there is a small tab near the pivot pin that pushes on the float valve. The float valve has a center pin that is spring-loaded. Measure the height from the gasket flange of the body (without the gasket) up to the top of the float, not the top of the mount. The attached drawing might make it easier to see. To adjust the float height, bend the tab slightly to change the height of the float.
One thing that is hard for first-timers to grasp easily: this measurement is the distance the floats hang into the chamber. A higher measurement means the floats are lower, yielding a leaner mixture overall. A lower measurement is a higher float lever, yielding a richer mixture.
Float adjustment
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
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Not to nitpick on Steve's very helpful post but... the mixture strength should not be affected by fuel height in the float bowl. Fuel in the bowl is drawn up via suction into the airstream so unless the fuel is overfilling to the point that it's spilling over into the airstream, or it's so low that there is nothing to suck up, it won't effect mixture strength.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Reddawg
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostNot to nitpick on Steve's very helpful post but... the mixture strength should not be affected by fuel height in the float bowl. Fuel in the bowl is drawn up via suction into the airstream so unless the fuel is overfilling to the point that it's spilling over into the airstream, or it's so low that there is nothing to suck up, it won't effect mixture strength.
My thoughts on richening up the mixture might have more to do with timing than actual mixture. Since the fuel does not have to be drawn quite as high through the jets, it will come up easier and maybe a bit sooner in the throttle opening range. Overall, the amount of fuel drawn through will be limited by the jets, hence the mixture will remain the same.
I have no actual experience with this, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I should know a lot about it. :shock:
I have seen several posts on this board hinting that the float level can/will affect the mixture, and that is my reasoning on why it happens.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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justmount1
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Originally posted by justmount1 View Postso what should the measurement be on an 80 gs550L
The first post just happens to have the specs for the '77-'79 carbs as the first item, followed by specs for the '80-and-up carbs.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
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Originally posted by Nessism View PostNot to nitpick on Steve's very helpful post but... the mixture strength should not be affected by fuel height in the float bowl. Fuel in the bowl is drawn up via suction into the airstream so unless the fuel is overfilling to the point that it's spilling over into the airstream, or it's so low that there is nothing to suck up, it won't effect mixture strength.
Half a millimeter either way makes a difference in the low-to-mid rpm range. I ended up with mine set at 0.5mm below the lowest float height in the range recommended before I was happy with the carburetion. Lower float height (with the carbs upside-down) equals higher fuel level and a slightly richer mixture. Take the time, measure carefully, and get this exactly right. You'll be smoother, faster, and happier.
A couple of things I'd add:
1) Watch out for crappy aftermarket float needles. There's a little spring-loaded nubbin in the center of each float needle where the float tang contacts the needle. On GS carbs, this spring should be strong enough to hold the floats up when the carbs are upside-down without compressing at all.
I've encountered shoddy aftermarket needles that have weak springs, making it nearly impossible to set float height. Just imagine how long it took me to sort out exactly why the &^%$##!!!! my bike wasn't running quite right. Just imagine how far I threw the stupid things once I figured this out. And imagine how I felt when I realized that the only usable parts in $100 worth of rebuild kits were the float bowl gaskets ($4 each at CRC2).
There are some aftermarket needles that are OK, but it's hard to tell until you get them in your hands. (I got a set of high-quality new needles on eBay from a guy in New Zealand, supposedly from the OEM manufacturer.)
If yours have squishy springs, you could try propping the carbs up at an angle so the full weight of the floats isn't pushing down on the springs -- with some bikes this is the normal procedure anyway. I'm not sure how well this would work on a GS.
2) Make sure both halves of each float are set to the same height. This takes a little time and care to get right.
3) If you can find a small sensitive scale (measures 1/10 grams), weigh each float to make sure the foam hasn't deteriorated and soaked up gas. The floats should all weigh the same within a few tenths of a gram. You can also put a little gas in a jar and make sure each float floats at the same height and angle. I've encountered this problem on a car, but not a GS yet. It's worth checking, I think. I used an electronic postage scale.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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justmount1
would it be a good idea just to buy new floats since the bike is so old and maybe the floats will go bad sometime soon?
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No. Very few floats go bad. It is just a possibility when trouble shooting.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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justmount1
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justmount1
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It's the variance of correct float adjustment. 22.4 is perfect but add .88 is ok and under .04 is ok. Same as spark plug gap. .024 to .028 will work.
By the way this number is with the float gasket off. Minus 1mm if the gasket is installed.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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