Brake pads

[7th day]

Needing some new brake pads for my '81 GS750E so I'd like some recommendations on brand and type of pad that would be a good match for this bike.

[Grandpa]

Some folks on this site will advise you to get Vesrah pads and other brands. Fine with me. I usually get my brake pads on eBay for the least amount of money possible. Right now I have in my garage, in the original packaging, a set of rear pads I got on eBay three months ago for $12, including shipping. Just bought a set of front pads for $16 including shipping (I was the only bidder in each case). I always have an unused set (two front, one rear) in my garage at a given time. That way I replace the pads at my convenience, usually coinciding with a tire change. I seldom let them wear down too far. It pays to plan ahead and stock up on brake pads and tires; get them at your convenience and at your price, not at anyone else's.

I disregard brand, as they all work fine on my rather heavy (and aggressively ridden) GS1100GK. I've used the stock Suzuki Tokicko (sp) pads, as well as the widely available EBC's. I've also used Vesrah, Ferodo, Galfer, and Dunlopad. They all work and feel the same way.

I presume that your 750 takes the same pads most GS bikes do; the EBC number is FA36 for the rear and FA51 for the front.

As I said, others will be quite brand-conscious and will tell you I'm full of it. Fine with me. I'm cheap, which is why I ride a 23-year-old bike with 118K miles on it. This is just my point of view, after 21 years of GS ownership.

[twistedwankel]

What a coincidence....

I have the same bike.
Two weeks ago I bought front EBC #FA51 and rear EBC #FA36.

FA is the high performance Organic Series.

I did not resurface my rotors. They have 25,000 miles on them and had carbon series which I hate due to dirty wheels.

I had to get them from a local Triumph dealer for $30 a set + $90 for the three sets.

I required no other parts as the clips/spacers were all still good. And I was able to squeeze the calipers open with the bleeder open somewhat using both hands and a channel lock pliers..whew.

I merely wiped the rotors off with alcohol and that was that. Of course I had to refill the reservoir when I was done and bleed the air out of which there was none.

I only did the front as the rears were on backorder for 2 days. That is a good thing as I wanted one proven working set of brakes during bedding as I'm not the world's best mechanic.

They recommend 250 miles to bed the pads. It took only 25 miles and one planned brisk stop within the first 5 miles to stop equal to the old pads. They are fantastic. In only 400 miles my rotors shine again and there is no black dust everywhere.

One of these days I'll put the rear ones on. I still have 3/32" of pad left there but needs doing because they occassionally squeek. The fronts no pull, smooth, clean and are quiet.

Z1 Industries online were cheaper...about $20 + shipping I think? but they were out of stock when I wanted them. You might check their site again and compare compounds?

Here are the EBC ratings:

FA = Hi Perfomance Organic (GG rated no rotor galling), X = Carbon Graphite (high friction - dry race), R = Sintered (off road riding), SV = Sintered (copper long life farm use)

[7th day]

Thanks for ther replies it's much appreciated.

[parkerpaxton5]

I have the same bike.
Two weeks ago I bought front EBC #FA51 and rear EBC #FA36.

exactly the information i was searching for, thanks.

[bwringer]

I've noticed that the Vesrah pads seem to bite a little better than the more common EBC pads, but I don't think they last quite as long. I've heard from those I trust that Ferodo Platinum are the ultimate GS brake pads, but the only known source in the US is a grumpy old guy in a shed in the desert who checks his email on every fifth Tuesday. (That's not much of an exaggeration, actually.)

However, the differences are very, very minor, and any modern brake pad is far, far better than trusting the 30-year-old pucks still moldering away in many old bikes.

Nick (or anyone, really), what are your thoughts on the many "no-name" pads found on fleaBay? I've seen "Pyramid", some outfit called "Eonfine Development", and another called "The Extreme Shop", and a few others hawking no-name GS brake pads.

[Grandpa]

Brian, I've been using EBC, Vesrah, Ferodo -- you name it -- in my GS bikes for years. I've also used off brands. Can't think of any names now.

I've found them on eBay, at which time I bid the minimum and wait to get lucky. I often end up the only bidder, so I get them for a song.

I've never noticed any difference in performance or longevity, whether a name brand like EBC, etc., or an off brand. Since I replace the pads often enough, it doesn't matter that much. Every time I change pads, whether rear or front, I make it coincide with a tire change.

So, my advice is buy cheap. Being cheap is grand!

Nick

[bwringer]

Well put, Nick!


I'll probably grab some of those no-names soon myself and report back to the masses. My VX800 uses up brake pads at a ferocious rate, since it weighs nearly as much as a GS yet has just one caliper with teensy brake pads.

If anyone is looking for a GS brake upgrade that's worth the trouble and time, I'd have to say first make sure the master cylinder and calipers are working correctly -- flush the fluid and rebuild if needed using OEM kits, and install new pads. (For that matter, that's always the first step with upgrading the performance of a vintage machine -- first make sure it's working correctly, and then decide what to do next, if anything.)

Next, install stainless steel brake lines. When everything is working right and with stainless lines, the brakes on any 1980-85 GS are excellent. (Earlier models can often benefit from transplanting components from the later models, if they fit.) I've never felt the need to upgrade my GS850's brakes further, and as many know, I whip that poor bike like a rented mule.


Also, I might point out that your policy of frequent brake pad replacement has its benefits. As the pads in GS front calipers wear, they tend to wear unevenly -- the guide pins are a bit of a loose fit, and the calipers cock to the side slightly when you apply the brakes. This gets worse as the pads wear, especially if you use them hard, and can even lead to binding when the pads are about half worn. I have a box full of GS front brake pads worn at an angle like this.

[Grandpa]

Well put, Nick!
Also, I might point out that your policy of frequent brake pad replacement has its benefits. As the pads in GS front calipers wear, they tend to wear unevenly -- the guide pins are a bit of a loose fit, and the calipers cock to the side slightly when you apply the brakes. This gets worse as the pads wear, especially if you use them hard, and can even lead to binding when the pads are about half worn. I have a box full of GS front brake pads worn at an angle like this.

You are so right, Brian. The pads do wear unevenly, which is why I replaced them so often on my GS bikes over my 23 years of owning them.

Your advice on brake component maintenance is right on target. On my GS shafties, I replaced the brake fluid, front and back, once a year. I had braided lines up front. The system was clean, and worked efficiently. That's how I could get away with buying cheap pads on eBay without being able to discern any difference in performance or longevity.

I remember the time I bought a set of new no-name rear pads for $9, and that included shipping. Of course, they worked just fine.

[bwringer]

I've tried for a long time to think of a cheap way to machine all these brake pads flat again. Most are about half worn at their thinnest.

But it's probably better to just slap on some new ones and ride more, instead of sitting in the garage breathing brake pad dust.

[Shaughn]

I've tried for a long time to think of a cheap way to machine all these brake pads flat again. Most are about half worn at their thinnest.

But it's probably better to just slap on some new ones and ride more, instead of sitting in the garage breathing brake pad dust.

This is going to sound incredibly shade-tree and hickish, but are the pads designated left and right?
If not, assuming they always wear one-way (presumably thinner in the front) couldn't you swap them left to right to break the edge back the other way?

Nevermind. Forget I said that. On a bike, it's just too dumb and idea to do that to your primary means of stopping. But on a car where the clips were left off (by tech B), and the car came back due to clicking noise complaints, I've seen (tech A) install a clip kit and swap the pads inside and out to offset the just barely visible about of uneven wear.

[Dogma]

...
If anyone is looking for a GS brake upgrade that's worth the trouble and time, I'd have to say first make sure the master cylinder and calipers are working correctly -- flush the fluid and rebuild if needed using OEM kits, and install new pads. (For that matter, that's always the first step with upgrading the performance of a vintage machine -- first make sure it's working correctly, and then decide what to do next, if anything.)
...

I'd like to escalate the importance of rebuilding the brakes to being a necessity for these old bikes. As far as I know, mine had never been apart, but all 3 calipers had time bombs inside waiting to go off. The rear already had a piston hanging on some grit causing the rear to drag slightly. The fronts had rust on the pistons that was near becoming a leak. My front master has a lot of rust under the dust cover (where the lever pushes the piston), but seems to be working correctly for now. It's on my to-be-replaced list. Only flushing the brakes would have revealed none of this.