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1983 Suzuki GS 550 E @12,000 original miles

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    #31
    On an engine that has adjustable timing, this is done by rotating the signal generator. So if you're adjusting a car's timing, you rotate the distributor, and if you're doing it on a GS motorcycle, you rotate the timing plate that holds the points or the magnetic pickups (if you have a model with magnetic pickups). You can't do this on your later model 550. If you pull the signal generator cover, you will find a steel plate held to the block by two screws, and this holds the two signal pickups. You will see a round signal generator that is bolted to the end of the crank, and this rotates as the engine rotates. To see it work, you can leave the cover off and crank the engine. This will help you understand how the signal generator works. To adjust the timing, you would have to be able to rotate this signal generator plate, but you can't.

    The timing on the later 550's is controlled by the ignitor unit (often referred to as the CDI). This unit changes the advance of the spark depending on the rpm of the engine. If your ignitor unit and signal generator are working properly, your timing is set correctly.

    Sorry if this is hard to understand. Its certainly hard to explain.
    Last edited by Guest; 07-18-2007, 03:35 PM. Reason: I donet right good.

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      #32
      Lee,

      Thanks again for your input. I do understand what you are saying. I looked up everything concerning CDi and signal generators, rectifiers, stators so yes what you said makes sense to me and will do some more "bike surgery" this evening and follow your advice.

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        #33
        Pictures I have so far of restoration project

        But you have to view them on my myspace account at the following link :

        will repost the link - I messed up

        I have some of my nighthawk there too
        Last edited by Guest; 07-18-2007, 08:10 PM.

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          #34
          The link for the pictures is here!!!! (yay)

          \\/

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            #35
            Didn't know you have to be a member to view them

            will redo the picture thing using yahoo photo album ((((((((((((((coming soon))))))))))))))))))

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              #36
              I still say it's the pilot/mixture screws. You never said if they'd been drilled out or not.
              You'd have to be crazy to be sane in this world -Nero
              If you love it, let it go. If it comes back....... You probably highsided.
              1980 GS550E (I swear it's a 550...)
              1982 GS650E (really, it's a 650)
              1983 GS550ES (42mpg again)
              1996 Yamaha WR250 (No, it's not a 4 stroke.)
              1971 Yamaha LT2 (9 horsepower of FURY.)

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                #37
                I have been unsuccessful at having the stripped mixture screws backed out. When I cleaned the carbs I used a fishing line and cleaned them from the inside. Deepsea fishing line (thicker).

                However, when the bike was first running (before I added the seafoam) it was set in that position.

                I just tested the stator and it passed the test - click the link below for a photo of it (and the album has pictures of this bike) :



                The manual states that if it has trouble starting it is likely a result of these problems (copying verbatim):

                Valve clearance out of adjustment ----but it was running before
                Worn valve guides or poor seating of valves ----- pistons moved freely
                Valves Mistiming -----???????
                Piston rings excessively worn ------I hope not
                Worn down cylinder bores -----way over my head
                Starter motor cranks but too slowly -----not the problem


                Under the carburator section it says if the engine is failing to start it can be related to these issues :

                1. Starter Jet is clogged ----- will check again
                2. Starter pipe is clogged ----- (where is that?)
                3. Air leaking from a joint between starter body and carburator --- maybe
                4. Air leaking from carburetor's joint or vacuum gauge joint ----?????
                5. Starter plunger is not operating properly ----- ?????


                I am still trying to discern what would be causing it to back fire and the spark plugs to get wet.

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                  #38
                  Valve mistiming would only occur if your timing chain broke or stretched (unlikely) or you've reinstalled the cams (very unlikely).

                  Don't know where the starter pipe is....but as far as the vacuum leaks it's primarily the intake manifold o-rings or the o-rings in between the carbs. Someone here sells the o-rings for about $12.

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                    #39
                    I am going to take the carburator apart (again) and clean it (again). \\/

                    happy happy joy joy.

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                      #40
                      Found the starter plunger (its where the choke cables enter the carbs). The choke is the plunger.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Schweisshund View Post
                        Under the carburator section it says if the engine is failing to start it can be related to these issues :

                        1. Starter Jet is clogged ----- will check again
                        2. Starter pipe is clogged ----- (where is that?)
                        3. Air leaking from a joint between starter body and carburator --- maybe
                        4. Air leaking from carburetor's joint or vacuum gauge joint ----?????
                        5. Starter plunger is not operating properly ----- ?????

                        I am still trying to discern what would be causing it to back fire and the spark plugs to get wet.
                        FYI: I believe the word "starter" means what we refer to as "Choke" in terms of the carbs.

                        The starter "pipe" on my carbs runs from the bottom of the float chamber up to the choke plunger assembly. This allows the choke circuit to get fuel. The pipe is actually attached to the carb body but the float chamber wall has a hole or well into which the pipe fits. The well ends in the bottom of the chamber where you can see a hole.

                        The starter plunger would be the choke plunger, which is housed at the end of the choke cable where it attaches to the carbs.

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                          #42
                          I cleaned out the airflow adjusting screws and airways with fishing line. There was, what appeared to be, rust or dirt on the spring of one of them. The real culprit was the starter plunger (choke) airway. I used fishing line and compressed air. The fluid I could see was black.

                          In any case, all 4 spark plugs were grounded on the crankcase (was drying out combustion chamber) when I turned it over, the spark fired in very rapid sequence - as before it would spark sometimes.

                          I am trickle charging the battery and have not tried to crank it yet - will do so in the morning

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                            #43

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                              #44
                              Saw some of the before pics in your other thread. Wow. You virtually rescued that bike from the bone yard! Neon green, eh? Interesting choice of color (and from the looks of your garage floor, some of that paint got away from ya :?). Sure does look better than whatever chemical accident was on the tank in the before shots.

                              Keep up the good work!

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                                #45
                                Thanks :-D The album is here http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z180/schweisshund01/

                                I am "experimenting" with custom paint techniques - this bike will eventually be repainted once I have decided which graphic I would like to put on it (am looking at Japanese Bearded Dragons and metallic paint techniques).

                                Yes, the paint did get away from me :-D but that was powder that was later swept up. The paint was actually fluorescent marking paint by rustoleum bought from home depot (ssshhhhhh don't tell anyone - lol). I painted it realizing I was going to later do a "real" job to it but wanted to see what clear coat would do to fluorescent paints (it dulls it considerably).

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