after installing auxilliary brake lights...

[ShirleySerious]

I just bought a couple LED strips to use as auxiliary brake lights on my '78 GS550E. I tested them by wiring each of them directly to the battery. They passed, so I wired them serially and hooked the positive wire to a 3 way connector to the white wire that connects to the brake light. My Clymer manual said this white wire is the stop signal wire. I then screwed the exposed black wire into a screw that grounds.

I turned the key to ON then tried pressing the brake light to activate it. To my surprise, the brake lights were already lit up, without even pressing the brake. Then I tried squeezing the front brake in rapid succession to see if that would work. It would go blink once for approx. 3 squeezes. I think that my front brake light switch is at fault, since I've had problems with it before.

Regarding the stop switch, what is the best way to get everything in so nothing falls? Every time I open the switch case, everything falls out and I have a hard time keeping it in. Should I just get a new one, or clean the copper off and try it again? Anyone else have trouble with this?

[Grandpa]

I just bought a couple LED strips to use as auxiliary brake lights on my '78 GS550E. I tested them by wiring each of them directly to the battery. They passed, so I wired them serially and hooked the positive wire to a 3 way connector to the white wire that connects to the brake light. My Clymer manual said this white wire is the stop signal wire. I then screwed the exposed black wire into a screw that grounds.

I turned the key to ON then tried pressing the brake light to activate it. To my surprise, the brake lights were already lit up, without even pressing the brake. Then I tried squeezing the front brake in rapid succession to see if that would work. It would go blink once for approx. 3 squeezes. I think that my front brake light switch is at fault, since I've had problems with it before.

Regarding the stop switch, what is the best way to get everything in so nothing falls? Every time I open the switch case, everything falls out and I have a hard time keeping it in. Should I just get a new one, or clean the copper off and try it again? Anyone else have trouble with this?

Front brake switches on our GS bikes are of very poor quality and wear out quickly. I have to replace mine every 2 years or so to ensure it works reliably. Fortunately, it isn't expensive and it's easy to replace. I don't bother replacing the little parts in the switch, since I'm basically a klutz with fine motor coordination.

Others on this forum have replaced the switch with more reliable and sturdy switches. I forget exactly what they use, but it would be good to hear from them.

[bakalorz]

Front brake switches on our GS bikes are of very poor quality and wear out quickly. I have to replace mine every 2 years or so to ensure it works reliably. Fortunately, it isn't expensive and it's easy to replace. I don't bother replacing the little parts in the switch, since I'm basically a klutz with fine motor coordination.

Others on this forum have replaced the switch with more reliable and sturdy switches. I forget exactly what they use, but it would be good to hear from them.

this thread

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=109319&highlight=hydraulic+brake+switch&page=2

talks about 2 alternate replacements

BTW, I suspect the first poster should wire the strips in parallel, not series, they'll be brighter that way.

[txironhead]

Any switch that requires replacing every two years is simply bad engineering. Unfortunately, it's hard to replace with a newer unit. I simply replaced my entire front master cylinder with one from a newer bike, in my GS's case one from a Ninja. As long as it came from a bike with the same number of front discs and 7/8" handlebars it should work. Now I have a newer, more reliable master cylinder without that ugly plastic reservoir and a new switch that works great. The switch is easily replaceable and the rebuild kits for the MC are easier and cheaper to find. All you have to do is cut the old switch wires and crimp/solder on connectors to fit the new switch. Also, if you get a Kawasaki MC you have to use the Kawasaki MC banjo bolt. Everything else bolts right up.

Plus, the Ninja MC has a nifty little dial for adjusting the brake lever position.

[duaneage]

Funny, my 27 year old switch still works just fine.

[twistedwankel]

Funny, my 27 year old switch still works just fine.

Do you use the front brake?:-D Just kidding, my 26 year old one works fine too.

[Steve]

Funny, both of my 26-year-old switches are working fine, too.
Of course, they had to be cleaned and adjusted when I got them 3 and 4 years ago.


.

[ShirleySerious]

I looked through the ones at the other topic and the one that goes into the fluid scares and confuses me, and the other one at partsnmore.com looks good but they have a minumum order amount of $35. At this point, if I can't repair the old one, I'm just gonna get a new one, even if it's OEM.

[runewolf]

I picked mine up new on ebay $9.99 + shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-GS450-GS550-GS850-GS1100-Front-Brake-Switch-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35594QQihZ009QQitemZ190130981446QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[distraction628]

The one that goes in the MC is easy take out the banjo bolt replace with pressure brake switch and bleed the breaks....done, works great.....

[ShirleySerious]

I picked mine up new on ebay $9.99 + shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuk...spagenameZWDVW

I just cleaned off the contacts and with steady hands, super glued the ends of the spring to the copper piece and the plastic piece. Now it's technically one piece and it still compresses. I tested it and it works better than before, but probably won't last.

I looked at that link, but the part# doesn't match the one I found at alpha-sports.com

[Go Mifune]

I installed that same ebay piece onto my 77 gs750 3 years ago and it has worked perfectly.

[txironhead]

The one that goes in the MC is easy take out the banjo bolt replace with pressure brake switch and bleed the breaks....done, works great.....

Forgot about those, I've used them before. Works great if you're trying to hide wires or "clean up" the frame. Basically a reworked oil pressure switch. I've never heard of one failing and if you can bleed your own brakes fairly easy to install.

Still prefer my Ninja MC, though.