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    #16
    I guess I just don't understand some people's mentality. My dad used to say "Don't fix it 'til it turns into something wrong." Obviously, preventative maintenance was not in his vocabulary, as evidenced by the many, many vehicles he's gone through rapidly in his life. Squeaky belt? Ain't broke, is it? Car overheating? Put some more water in it and loosen the radiator cap, it'll be fine.

    BOOM! What was that? The engine blew up? Big surprise.

    The situation is, this guy is wanting to know if the large amounts of heat coming off of his bike is normal, and if not, how to fix it.

    First off, you need to find out if the bike is overheating. The only thing I can think of is to somehow install an oil temperature gauge. Maybe you can use one of those heat sensor guns (don't know right now what they're called) to find out the external temp, which isn't as accurate a gauge but it'll get you a baseline. If your oil is getting so hot that it's losing viscosity before the recommended 2k oil change, chances are you're either getting it too hot or gasoline is somehow seeping into your crankcase. No chance of the petcock leaking, is there?

    Another thing: oil coolers work. If you have one of the older bikes with the low-pressure oil pump then it may not work for you without putting a higher-pressure pump in, but saying oil coolers don't work is like saying gas isn't flammable. It's a tried-and-true technology. If your oil cooler leaks, chances are it's a poorly made unit, the seals are bad or it was improperly installed.

    I've installed oil coolers on bikes before, pretty common in South Texas where I used to live, and on every bike I installed them on the result was a significantly cooler running bike. The only one I ever had leak was the result of pure error, I forgot to install the seal on one of the lines. I installed the seal, cleaned the mess and no problems.

    Air cooled and even oil cooled bikes run hotter than water cooled bikes, no argument there. Is his bike overheating? I honestly don't know, I'm not there to diagnose it, but I can try to help him diagnose whether or not it is and if it is try to help remedy the problem. Telling him to quit whining over whether or not his bike will make a long-distance trip is not great advice. Before every long trip I've ever made on a bike I did everything I could to make sure that the bike was in the top condition it could be in. I'd much rather spend an extra hour wrenching in my driveway that three hours cussing and wrenching by flashlight in the middle of nowhere.

    Granted, these bikes are bull-tough if they're running right, or there wouldn't be as many as there are still on the road. But no bike, no matter how well made, can withstand unlimited abuse. Aluminum warps easily. Heat warps aluminum. It's a valid question based on a valid concern. It may turn out to be nothing. But I'd rather help prevent blowing up a motor he's obviously spent a lot of time and money on than tell him to quit worrying and ride the crap out of it.

    I'll get off of my soapbox now. Find out for sure if it is overheating. If it is, we've given you some ideas on how to remedy the problem. If it's not, at least you'll have the peace of mind that the engine should last you for years to come.

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      #17
      right on txironhead.
      punctuation and capitalization. is this a high school paper?
      he asked how hot his bike should be getting and that his was getting hot enough to boil the engine oil.
      i think he noticed that when he checked his oil because the engine was hot, that the oil was bubbling
      dont tell him hes a idiot because his bike is overheating.
      Last edited by Guest; 07-18-2007, 03:08 AM.

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        #18
        I think the piece of technology txironhead is trying to recall the name of is an infrared, or IR, thermometer. I was thinking I'd get one of them to help me balance my carbs based on the idea that lean cylinders would run hotter than well-tuned ones and so I'd gauge which cylinders to richen based on which exhaust pipes were hotter than the others. Then I was made savvy to the motor oil in the vinyl tubing as a 2-cylinder differential manometer gag for much cheaper than any IR thermometer.

        I'd love to have an engine temp gauge on my instrument cluster. What would be the best route to achieve that? A thermocouple affixed to the front center of the engine down between the pipes for cyls 2 and 3? A thermocouple on a rigid rod passing through the oil filler cap to avoid permanently modifying the crankcase?

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          #19
          i was thinking of putting a oil temp sensor in instead of a oil temp in the oil pressure port on the right side of the bike. or a t fitting to monitor both
          oil pressure is more important then temp but there is a idiot light for pressure.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Cathy344 View Post
            I'd love to have an engine temp gauge on my instrument cluster. What would be the best route to achieve that? A thermocouple affixed to the front center of the engine down between the pipes for cyls 2 and 3? A thermocouple on a rigid rod passing through the oil filler cap to avoid permanently modifying the crankcase?
            There is an oil galley fitting on the RH side of the engine (chrome bolt) that could be removed and a sensor installed. Some people install gauges into the line but there is no reason a temp gauge/sensor couldn't be installed instead.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #21
              I to have been worried about high heat,oil breakdown, because I ride in 100 plus heat here in Nebraska sometimes. Have read a lot of threads on oil, synthetic vs dino, and would like to run synthetic, but am worried about leaks, as have heard horror storys about what can happen in older engines. About a month ago I pulled the oil plug to change oil after a 40 mile ride in 80 degree weather. Couldn't find my rubber glove and thought I would burn my hand. In a hurry, I pulled it bare handed, and to my supprise it did'nt. Wasn't nearly as hot as a car engine that runs 200 degree's. What I have done, is to start running a oil additive by Lucas called motor oil stabilizer. Was having shifting problems before( shift lever would not return to neutral position, especially when oil was cold upon start up) That problem dissapeared instantly with the addition of the Lucas. No clutch problems, actually works better, engine was using a little oil before, and almost none now, and this product helps against thermal breakdown from heat. I believe it really improves the dino oil. Have used it in cars, pickups, tractors and irrigation power units for 10 years, with great results. It works great in worn engines that are using oil, will reduce oil consuption, sometimes dramatically. Recommended it to a friend that had a old farm truck that was using a quart and a half of oil a day,(50 to 60 miles) He used it at a 50\50 mixture and only added a quart for the rest of the harvest season, needless to say he was rather impressed as he thought that he was going to have to overhaul the motor, but ran it another 6 years. Warning, if you use it at the 50\50 blend be sure to pore engine oil in first, then add Lucas, as it is so thick that oil pump may hae trouble picking it up. Once you start, and warm up you can't tell its in there, by looking at oil viscosity. Have a van with 303k on it, and still runs great, I believe partly because of this product. They have other product .that we have used and they are all top notch in my book. They have a upper cylinder lubercant that I run religously in cars and bikes as it also tends to prevent fuel from going bad,( a good thing on bikes that tend to sit for periods of time) Just thought I'd share our experience with these great products. Everybody ride safe!!!

              Comment


                #22
                When I mentioned thinking about going from 10w40 to 20w50 once my bike was roadworthy, the sales guy at the local independent bike shop suggested instead to stay with the 10w40 but add the Lucas oil stabilizer. I was thinking he might have just been trying to move product.

                If I did use Lucas, would it be better to add it to synth or dino 10w40, and in what proportion? 50/50 seems excessive. 25/75 sounds more in line with my expectations.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Clone View Post
                  I would love to know where to by rotella in
                  canada
                  Shell gas stations is a good place to start

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I got this off of Quaker State Website..interesting data


                    TYPICAL PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
                    QUAKER STATE® SMALL ENGINE 4-CYCLE MOTORCYCLE OIL
                    TEST TYPICAL RESULTS
                    SAE Grade 10W-40 20W-50
                    Gravity, °API 15.6°C(60°F) 30.2 27.8
                    Flash Point, COC, °C(°F) 221(430) 227(440)
                    Fire Point, COC, °C(°F) 232(450) 235(455)
                    Pour Point, °C(°F) -34(-30) -31(-25)
                    Viscosity
                    @ 40°C, cSt(SUS) 101.3(470) 173(802)
                    @ 100°C, cSt(SUS) 14.7(76.7) 18.39(91.7)
                    Viscosity Index 152 140
                    CCS Viscosity @ Temp. °C(°F) cP Max. 3500 @ -20(-4) 4500 @ -10(14)
                    Low Temperature Pumping
                    Viscosity @ -25°C(-13°F), cP Max. 30,000 –
                    Low Temperature Pumping
                    Viscosity @ -15°C(5°F), cP Max. – 30,000
                    Material Number
                    12/1 Quart 11681 11684

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Lucas oil

                      On a engine in good shape, I would run about 20 to 25%, but if you have one that is using oil, then go up. In my GS i'm running one qt Lucas, three qt of 10-40. Seems to work fine. If anyone tries it, I would interested to know if you notice much difference in shifting/gearbox operation. It was absoulutely amazeing in my case.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Luckily my transmission shifts perfectly, my clutch works great, and my engine burns no perceptible oil. My oil temp gauge generally reads 220 degrees or less, and since I change the Castrol 10W-40 every 2,000 miles or so, I'm not worried about oil breakdown.

                        I guess I can't use any oil additives.
                        Last edited by Guest; 07-18-2007, 06:09 PM.

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                          #27
                          Lucas Oil Fans - Thanks!

                          Just wanted to say thanks to all the Lucas Oil fans who are helping us build the Colts a new stadium! :razz:




                          Seriously, Lucas does mix up some good stuff. If it makes you feel better to put their additives in your oil, and you can afford it, then go right ahead (just make sure it's compatible with wet clutches).

                          Personally, I'm in the "ordinary oil changed every 2K miles" camp. I usually use 15W-40 oil for diesels, but I've used everything from 10W-40 Castrol ($) to 20W-50 Golden Spectro Synthetic ($$$$).
                          1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                          2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                          2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                          Eat more venison.

                          Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                          Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by denydog View Post
                            Luckily my transmission shifts perfectly, my clutch works great, and my engine burns no perceptible oil. My oil temp gauge generally reads 220 degrees or less, and since I change the Castrol 10W-40 every 2,000 miles or so, I'm not worried about oil breakdown.

                            I guess I can't use any oil additives.
                            What do you mean you can't use any oil additives?? My guess would be , with that sunny personality\additude, your unenployed and just can't afford it!!!

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by GS Farmer View Post
                              What do you mean you can't use any oil additives?? My guess would be , with that sunny personality\additude, your unenployed and just can't afford it!!!
                              Hey farmer whats the need for the personal attack?

                              Just because someone doesnt feel the need to use an additive you attack them and state things that you have no idea about?? Who says that the poster was unemployed? I persoanly work on the coal fields in Australia and earn 100000K per year, but I dont use an additive, so would you call me unemployed too??

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by GS Farmer View Post
                                What do you mean you can't use any oil additives?? My guess would be , with that sunny personality\additude, your unenployed and just can't afford it!!!
                                It's "you're", not "your". It's "attitude", not "additude". It's "unemployed", not "unenployed".

                                GS Farmer, your attitude is sunnier than your spelling. Employ it carefully! :-D:-D

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