Help for a new couple?? Sorry kinda long

[txironhead]

Sounds like something screwy happened to the wiring while you were installing everything. Have you verified that you have spark? Your ignition could have been affected, too.

[Schweisshund]

It sounds like loose wiring. You might need to disconnect each wire and clean with electrical parts cleaner, not only will this familiarize yourself with the harness, you might end up resolving your electrical issue. Check your battery too:-D

I went through this last week with my bike - listen to these senior members, they will guide you through this.

[GS750]

Is there enough charge in the battery?

I find that my ole GS750 doesnt like starting on the starter on a cold morning after it has sat for 2 or 3 days, yet I give it one single kick on the kicker and it goes first pop.

I have a new battery and it is all good, (had it tested twice to verify)

My charging system is all good (twice tested too)

I just put it down to the electric draw from the startermotor being too much draw and the electronic ignition doesnt get enough power (current/amps?? or whatever electrical "things")

[donkris]

Seems like there's no spark. I pulled the #1 plug and used a spark tester and got nothing. I checked the rest of them and found the same thing. None of the plugs are firing. Guess I'll start digging through wiring. Crap!

[Schweisshund]

I had the same thing happening to my bike (or at least very similar) take your stator cover off and see if the circuits on the plate are soldered together causing a short.

Use an electric multitester - or even a circuit tester to see if they are getting anything electrical at all before you rule out the coils.

[Steve]

They were completely disassembled and dipped. I soaked all the parts and the carb body for about an hour ...

Everything else you mentioned sounded good, but this part was about 23 hours too short. :shock:

I know the can says "15 to 30 minutes", but I have had much better success using "15 to 30 hours". 8-[


.

[donkris]

It's running!!! Thanks to all I've been reading in this forum. But not so fast, all isn't well yet. Here's the problem. When the bike finally started it idled at about 1100 RPM, but after about three or four minutes it started to increase on it's own. It went to about 3500 RPM. I turned it off because I didn't want it to run for long at that speed. I turned the idle screw out a bit and restarted. It idles at about 1200 RPM. Good enough for right now. The problem is after idling for a few minutes it dies and won't restart. If I leave it alone for a few minutes it starts and idles fine, but then the same thing happens again. I have to wait about ten minutes for it to start again. It acts like it running out of fuel. It doesn't matter which position the petcock is in. I tried all three positions and got the same result. On the first start I noticed that the exhaust on #1 stayed cold while the other three got hot. It heated up after a while but not as quick as the other three. The mixture screws are all backed out two turns. I haven't tried adjusting them yet. The exhaust smells rich, it burns the eyes. What could be causing it to die after running so smooth?

[GS750]

Hi Donkris, is it possible that your valves are riding? If you are not getting compression, your exhaust wont get too hot.

I still think that you are having a problem with the petcock, maybe the vacume supply, it sounds like the problem I had where it just isnt getting enough fuel through.

[txironhead]

In the "Tips and Tricks" section there's a post on how to completely test a vacuum petcock. Give that a try.

Normally, wandering idle is a sure sign of a vacuum leak. Possible culprits can be intake o-rings, cracked/worn intake boots, carb o-rings and a bad seal on the airbox. I know you've replaced some of these things, just can't remember which.

The next time you get it started, spray some WD-40 around the intake boots. If the idle changes, you've got a vacuum leak.

Can't remember, have you adjusted the valves?

[donkris]

No I haven't adjusted the valves yet. The intake o-rings are new and so are all of the o-rings in the carb. I've done the petcock testing and it works normally. The only thing I noticed about it is that it's really hard to turn. I think I'll just get a new one, Pingle is it? I'll try setting the mixture using the highest RPM method that I read about here. I'll post later with the results. Thanks guys.

[RJ]

Try running with the petcock on prime. You may be getting flow but maybe not enough to refill the bowls fast enough.

[txironhead]

Adjust the valves, then synchronize the carbs. Get a new factory petcock off of ebay, they last 20 years and you don't have to remember to shut them off every time you kill the bike.

[Schweisshund]

check your choke plungers too - make sure the airway is clean and the choke isnt stuck.

[donkris]

OK here's the latest.. I took about half the day today to work on the bike. I cleaned every electrical connection I could find. I even took out all the fuses and cleaned the fuse block. Since all the experts say that I may have petcock issues I decided to take it apart again for a closer look. The diaphram looked good but I did notice something that looks like black glue that looks like it's coming from the vacuum port side. There's a little round plastic disc with 5 small holes in it. The black goop appears to be coming from under that disc. If I blow compressed air into the vacuum port it forces the goop through the little disc. I have no clue what this stuff is but I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be there. I think you guys were right about the petcock so I'm going to order a new one. I cleaned the old one again and put it back on for now. The bike now starts and idles good as long as I leave it on Prime. Otherwise it runs for a few minutes and then dies. If the engine is cold it won't start without full choke, but at least it runs now. Thanks to all of you. Tomorrow I'll try the mixture setting. I really appreciate all of you!

[Schweisshund]

dont forget to look in the "tips & tricks" section for syncing carbs :-D