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    #16
    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
    I like my pods and the rejet wasn't that difficult.
    I agree, pods look great! I'm just trying to head off the next set of questions that usually go like this:

    "Put the pods on but now, I seem to have a hesitation at midrange and the bike has lost most of its' pull. Do you think I may need to rejet? If so, who / what would you recommend? Where can I find them? I'm not real good with the mechanics thing and have a very limited selection of tools, with no place to work on the bike. What are plug chops? Where do all these little hoses go. Do you think that I should get a book? Where? Is there anyone out there in the _______area that can give me a hand!" :?

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      #17
      Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
      I agree, pods look great! I'm just trying to head off the next set of questions that usually go like this:

      "Put the pods on but now, I seem to have a hesitation at midrange and the bike has lost most of its' pull. Do you think I may need to rejet? If so, who / what would you recommend? Where can I find them? I'm not real good with the mechanics thing and have a very limited selection of tools, with no place to work on the bike. What are plug chops? Where do all these little hoses go. Do you think that I should get a book? Where? Is there anyone out there in the _______area that can give me a hand!" :?
      Gotcha!!!!!
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #18
        Ok, Airbox issue is finally dealt with. It's now mounting properly. I had to change out the carb rack to get the job done. The previous owner had apparently stripped out the
        holes for the mounts to the gang plate and then JB welded
        the gangplate on upside down causing the carbs to ride directly on the tensioner and forcing a higher attitude on the rear of the carbs themselves. Having a spare rack of
        carbs came in quite handy.

        I rebuilt them yesterday afternoon, installed them and now the bike won't start at all. Haven't done much troubleshooting beyond that point yet. There's an inline filter on the fuel supply that I'm thinking is gonna come off just to take it out of the equation for now. I don't know what type of filter it is; so, not knowing, better safe than sorry. Got a few hours before I have to go in to work; so, I'm off to do some investigating. Will report back with updates later.

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          #19
          Bypassed the filter. Engine is firing on all fours but she's acting starved still. Spark seemed good, so I hit the airbox with Heat just to see if spark is the issue - it isn't. A little heat and she sound just like she should. Pinched the fuel line with no filter installed - nearly bone dry. So I still have a petcock issue after rebuild. Ready to shred the frakin petcock and bypass it. Someone might think that thing is brilliantly designed. Personally, I'd like to meet the guy that designed it and punch him in the face right now. At any rate, the only thing standing between me and riding that bike tonight is the petcock. So, I'm outty.

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            #20
            I don't think it's a brilliant design, personally any petcock that I can't rebuild with 100% confidence it will work is crap. Only about 15% of the people here that have tried to rebuild their petcocks have met with success. However, the point was a new one would work and be a direct bolt-in.

            If my petcock goes out I'm going with the design posted by another member: manual petcock with an electric normally-off valve solenoid. That way I don't have to worry about shutting it off, vacuum leaks, hydrolocking, etc.

            The best setup I've ever seen on a bike was my Shadow's electric fuel pump and seperate reserve tank. Sure, it's more stuff bolted to the bike but it never gave me a hiccup.

            The Pingel is pretty much the only other option, just don't forget to turn it off or you're going to become an expert at changing out your starter clutch bolts and/or the clutch itself.

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              #21
              Originally posted by txironhead View Post
              I don't think it's a brilliant design, personally any petcock that I can't rebuild with 100% confidence it will work is crap. Only about 15% of the people here that have tried to rebuild their petcocks have met with success. However, the point was a new one would work and be a direct bolt-in.

              If my petcock goes out I'm going with the design posted by another member: manual petcock with an electric normally-off valve solenoid. That way I don't have to worry about shutting it off, vacuum leaks, hydrolocking, etc.

              The best setup I've ever seen on a bike was my Shadow's electric fuel pump and seperate reserve tank. Sure, it's more stuff bolted to the bike but it never gave me a hiccup.

              The Pingel is pretty much the only other option, just don't forget to turn it off or you're going to become an expert at changing out your starter clutch bolts and/or the clutch itself.
              For the time being, I did a direct bypass. Her maiden voyage was 6 blocks to work. Performed like a raging bull. But... Charging system is down. Stator is fine. The RR is dead. Spare is dead as well. So, after all the work, I'm hung on the charging system. Frustration doesn't begin to describe my feeling right now.

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                #22
                Dead R/R is easy: do a Honda regulator conversion. I've got a $10 Ebay regulator off of a CBR on my bike. Probably won't have another issue with the charging system for another 10-20 years. Took me 10 minutes to wire it in, and it bolted up perfectly. The stock regulator/rectifier on these bikes is just like the petcock: badly designed and prone to catastrophic failure. Like a fried stator or hydrolocked engine.

                If you do a search on petcocks in the Technical section, there's a post on how to permanently convert your stock petcock to a simple on/off/prime setup. Basically it's removing the vacuum diaphragm and installing a blockoff plate. Poor man's Pingle.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                  Dead R/R is easy: do a Honda regulator conversion. I've got a $10 Ebay regulator off of a CBR on my bike. Probably won't have another issue with the charging system for another 10-20 years. Took me 10 minutes to wire it in, and it bolted up perfectly. The stock regulator/rectifier on these bikes is just like the petcock: badly designed and prone to catastrophic failure. Like a fried stator or hydrolocked engine.

                  If you do a search on petcocks in the Technical section, there's a post on how to permanently convert your stock petcock to a simple on/off/prime setup. Basically it's removing the vacuum diaphragm and installing a blockoff plate. Poor man's Pingle.
                  On the petcock, I pulled the core of the diaphram from an old unit I had, mounted it as a gasket and plugged the vacuum port. Ran an inline cutoff and now she behaves for the most part.

                  On the RR, I picked one up from CRC2 this afternoon; but, problem not solved. I'm still low on volts at 5k rpm though the stator tested good. So either it's bad or something else is wrong that I just haven't found. I don't know which; but, I'm way beyond my limit for agitation at this point.

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                    #24
                    Did you run the regulator tests from the stator papers? Could be a dirty/bad connection.

                    I know all about frustration: I'm slowly putting my 750 back together, it's only taken a year or so, and while putting on my nice new throttle cable I discovered that the right handlebar switch is stripped out and keeps slipping on the handlebar. Not as major as not charging, but I just can't seem to catch a break either.

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                      #25
                      How's the battery?
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                        Did you run the regulator tests from the stator papers? Could be a dirty/bad connection.

                        I know all about frustration: I'm slowly putting my 750 back together, it's only taken a year or so, and while putting on my nice new throttle cable I discovered that the right handlebar switch is stripped out and keeps slipping on the handlebar. Not as major as not charging, but I just can't seem to catch a break either.
                        Ran the tests on the old one but not on the new one. Battery is brand new and had a full charge on it when we tested. Gettin ready to go back out and get at it again.

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                          #27
                          She's alive! Alive!! Ok, enough drama. After a new stator and a bit of settling in time, Serenity is now a daily driver.

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                            #28
                            Didn't that Firefly end up crashing in the movie?:shock:

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by txironhead View Post
                              Didn't that Firefly end up crashing in the movie?:shock:
                              Well, if you get hit with an EMP in midflight.. you're goin down unless you're in an unpowered glider

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