Custom Paint

[Guest]

I am getting an air compressor and paint sprayer tomorrow on loan from a family member. I have been "practicing" with spray paint and do not like the final finish as spray paint has a tendency to pit or overspray - I am going to repaint both of my motorcycles with the sprayer.

I found this link and the free "3 day custom painting course" to be very helpful:

http://www.baa-direct.com

There is a lot of information that is extremely helpful at that link - however it is a sales pitch for a collection of instructional dvds.

I also saw a post here in the forums from someone who custom painted his car with foam rollers - I thought that was crazy until I saw the pictures.

From my "practicing" I used frisket paper for my graphics templates and it didn't turn out so well - frisket paper has a tendency to roll up - tear, crease and otherwise completely ruin your hours of cutting out your own custom designed graphic - especially the very fine lines.

Is there anything out there better than frisket paper? How long must you wait for the paint to cure before adhering material to it? If using mettalic paint - how can you clear coat it? Should mettalic paint be used after clear?

Anyone out there with this experience?

[txironhead]

For graphics, I normally tape the area off with 3M blue painter's tape, then use my template to transfer the design to the tape. Then, with a razorblade or Xacto knife, carefully cut the design out and remove excess tape.

Clear should always be your last coat, unless you're fading/blending tinted clears. Metallic paint is sprayed just like regular topcoat, it just takes a bit of practice to get the spray pattern down. The most important thing with metallic is what is under it. Different colors will give the metallic a different hue. Silver is the standard undercoat for most metallics, but you can experiment and get some really outstanding shades.

For beginning, I recommend Dupli-Color Paint Shop paint. It's available at some auto parts stores, it's pre-mixed, no thinner, activator, etc. needed. Three-step paint: primer, topcoat, clearcoat. I don't think they make metallics yet, but they make some nice gloss colors.

I've had some outstanding results with spray paint, with the proper wet sanding and clear it can look as good as a "pro" job. Unfortunately, it doesn't stand up to gasolene and the elements as well as professional paint. I'm planning on painting my GS with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel, seems to hold up a bit better and it comes in the color I want.

A good place to find a lot of good info on doing a nice paint job is your local library. I've found several good books on painting, from beginner to custom and graphics.

The main thing to remember is 90% of a good paint job is in the prep. Knowing what paints require what materials, what primer to use, reducers, thinners, basecoat/topcoat or layered, orange peel and how to minimize it, making sure the object is perfectly prepped for paint, block sanding, etc. Actual painting only takes 30min-4 hours normally, but you can spend a week easy doing the prep work.

And then after the painting's done you've got wet sanding, rubbing, polishing, waxing, run removal, overspray cleanup, pinstriping, yada yada yada.

I'm not trying to scare you off, doing a paint job myself is one of the most satisfying things I've ever done. I spent a week doing a rattle-can job on a bike and it turned out beautifully, people couldn't believe that the whole job cost me $40. Metallic Emerald with five coats of clear on the tank, rear tail section, side covers and misc. trim. I would have preferred to use pro paint but I didn't have access to the equipment then and money was tight.

Do the research (you're on the right track there), decide beforehand exactly what you want to do and what materials you'll need, and make sure to take the time necessary for the prep and paint. The guys at the local paint shop will help with what reducers, etc. you'll need, just make sure to tell them if you're going to be painting plastic parts as well as metal, you might need a certain primer or catalyst.

Good luck!

[LeeGS550E]

You might also think about having your graphics cut on vinyl sticker material at a sign shop...then you could just stick them on and clear coat over them. That's what suzuki did with the original graphics.

As txironhead mentioned, when you do the plastic parts, such as your front fender and rear cowl, you should use a plastic primer. I found rustoleum plastic primer at Lowes. I repainted my bike with automotive basecoat/clearcoat, and it seems to be holding up well on the plastic parts, as well as everywhere else. The paint ended up costing me $120, but it was worth it, and I have enough to do another bike. Now I just need another bike.

Good luck. Post some pics!

[txironhead]

Now I just need another bike.

Don't we all.:-D

[Schweisshund]

Very informative and much appreciated. I might go with the viynl decals through a sign shop because I have a specific design that will take a lot of time to draw out and cut. I am pretty sure that a sign shop could take my design and do the cutting necessary (or I hope so or it will take me forever to do it with a hobby knife). I plan on using ancient japanese script (Kanji) in very small font size to draw a dragon (kind of like shaped poetry). In fact, I might have a design of two fighting dragons. I would like the graphic to be metallic silver and am wondering if clear coat will make the metallic lose its silver color.

Also - is simple green a good product to clean surfaces between coats?

Next year will be this bike's 25th anniversary and it will be, according to my state, a hobby antique. I am wondering if I should get a hobby antique plate or change it to "I8A4RE" (I ate a ferrari).

In any case - this will be a very slow project for me - I am not going to rush through it. I picked up the air compressor and paint sprayer today. Next week I will be getting a hose filter.

I would also be interested in finding the paint code for the frame on the 83 Suzuki GS 550 E. There is rust evident on the frame. I will also be painting the engine enamel black (of course masking the aluminum parts) and wondering what good heat resistant engine paints are out there.

I have the seat temporarily "fixed" (more like covered up) but there is a sewing shop nearby and the senior women hang out there. One lady is going to help me with the fabric and completely redesign the seat. That is a project for later. I want to put a type of gel pad in the seat.

My whole problem with this restoration project has been impatience. I am "learning" to be patient and slow down.

[txironhead]

Simple Green will probably leave a residue. Look in the paint section at the auto parts store for "Grease and Wax Remover" or "Paint Prep". If a part has heavy oil residue, spray it down with carb and choke cleaner first.

For good engine paint, I've always trusted Dupli-Color's Engine Enamel or Exhaust Enamel (with ceramic!) products. Durable, easy to use and good spray pattern. The semi-gloss black should be a very close match to the frame paint, too. The main thing to remember is to let it dry and cure thoroughly before using it. Otherwise it will turn dull. Another product I highly recommend, more so than the Dupli-Color, is POR-15 products. The only reason I don't use them more is the price. Their website is very helpful and has the instructions and cautions for each product available for printout. POR-15 is virtually indestructable.

If you want to go with vinyl graphics, pick up a "Street Tuner" or other Euroracer magazine. There will be several companies with ads in there that specialize in custom-made graphics specifically made for automotive use. There may even be a company nearby. They can usually make your graphic from a JPEG or similar file that you can email them. The added benefit to this over paint is that if for some reason the original gets damaged, you can order an exact replacement using the original graphic file. Also, these graphics can be ordered for use under a clear coat, and so won't lose their finish after painting.

[Schweisshund]

txironhead - your amazing :-D Thanks.

[txironhead]

No, I'm poor, and I've learned to do things on the cheap and how to get my money's worth.:-D

But thanks for the compliment.

[Nessism]

Automotive paint is the way to go but it's very expensive. A quart of two part epoxy primer w/hardner is about $65 and a quart of clear is about the same. Base coat colors vary depending on the pigment; paid $75 for one pint of red to match my car recently which was a shock to the system. You need the matching reducers as well to go with the paint. Again, not cheap, but good stuff. This type of paint is BAD to breath but if you have full ventilation and a carbon mask you can get away with it (or at least I have).

Once you make the jump to this kind of paint using rattle cans is like using crayons to draw with. It's that superior. It's durable also and will hold up relatively well to gas spills and the like. Good stuff.