GS850 wiring diagram re: stator

[mborzillo]

The diagram in my Clymer manual doesn't match what on the bike, particularly the stator. My basic question with my aftermarket stator, is, it has three black wires. In the electrical section, it looks like the 3 wires go right to the 3 yellow wires on the R/R, but the diagram section doesn't show 3 yellow. I'm a little confused as how to properly connect the stator. By the way, I checked the new stator, leg to leg, only 20V AC. What's the chances of getting a bad one right out the box? And it's from Rick's.
thanks
Mark

[duaneage]

the three wires go to the three wires, that is easy. three black to the three yellow in any order. If your only getting 20 volts measure the resistance of the wires with the bike off and see if it reads about .8 ohms. Zero the leads together before you do this to get the meter at 0 ohms first or the resistance in the leads may throw this off.


I don't think their quality control is that bad, I would try another meter before taking it out. Are you sure you have the correct stator for the bike, the wrong one may fit but not work.

A real long shot is a bad magnet assembly on the flywheel but that is real rare. Some of the older bikes had alnico magnets ( or so I'm told) that can loose their magnetic properties after a hit.

[Steve]

Yes, it's possible to get a bad one out of the box, but it's even more unusual if all three legs are only showing 20 volts. That would lead me to suspect the test procedure. The manual specifies 5,000 rpm and 75 volts. If you were testing this near idle speed, I might expect around 20 volts.

With the engine off and the stator leads disconnected, measure the resistance on each phase. Label the leads A, B, and C. Measure resistance from A-B, B-C, and C-A. Should be about 1 ohm or less. Also measure the resistance from each lead to the engine case (ground), should be infinite, or an open circuit. If these tests pass, check your voltage again with the engine at or near 5,000 rpm.


.

[bwringer]

I vaguely remember reading that some aftermarket stators will put out a little less voltage, but more current. Thicker wires or something like that. Anyway, the voltage reading at 5,000 rpm would be 45-50 volts with these stators.

Can anyone verify this, or was I hallucinating?

[SqDancerLynn1]

You did set your meter on AC volts ??

[mborzillo]

Thanks so far for the input. I did check at 5000 rpm, only 20 volts AC, yes meter was on AC setting. I'll check resistances like was mentioned. Concerning wiring diagram, the manual shows 2 stator legs going right to R/R but the third leg going through ignition switch. This would mean one leg of stator needed to go to blue/white wire then the red/white wire to R/R?
Any thoughts? Like I say, I'm a little distrustful of the Clymer.
thanks
Mark

[tconroy]

Thanks so far for the input. I did check at 5000 rpm, only 20 volts AC, yes meter was on AC setting. I'll check resistances like was mentioned. Concerning wiring diagram, the manual shows 2 stator legs going right to R/R but the third leg going through ignition switch. This would mean one leg of stator needed to go to blue/white wire then the red/white wire to R/R?
Any thoughts? Like I say, I'm a little distrustful of the Clymer.
thanks
Mark

Thats they way it could be also.They are all a little different.Mine was a green and white wire. Where did you get the stator?

[Steve]

the manual shows 2 stator legs going right to R/R but the third leg going through ignition switch.

Are you sure??? :shock:

Any of the wiring diagrams or manuals I have seen show the third wire going to a plug under the tank, then looping back down through that same plug (on a different wire, of course) back to the r/r. Never gets to the ignition switch. That is, unless you have a '79 850. They had a headlight switch, and the third leg of the stator went to a second set of contacts on the headlight switch, then back to the r/r, so the third leg would be switched on and off with the headlight.


.