Any helpful tips for bleeding brakes on my 650G

[Guest]

My front brake has been pulling way too far in to engage. My fluid level on the handlebars seems to be right above the "low" point. It looks below the line when I turn the handle bars to an angle. Instead of just adding more fluid, I would like to bleed the brakes and get the air out. (assuming that's the issue)

This will be the first time I will attempt bleeding the brakes on any vehicle. I do not have my manual handy. I've read some previous threads on here, but they seem to cater to the more experienced. I know this isn't a tough job. I'll be on my own. Can someone give me a step by step, tips , etc.

thanks!!

[pvtschultz]

I don't know if you have those anti-dive brakes or not, but if not, this might help.

Bleeding brakes that have been completly drained is a huge PITA so don't let the compensation port suck in air at any time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This can be done by yourself, but it would be a hell of a lot easier with two people:

1. Find a length of rubber hose (clear is prefered) that is about 1-2 feet long and slightly smaller than the bleed screw on the caliper. Slide it over the left (as you're sitting on the bike) caliper bleed port.

1. Squeeze the brake lever firmly and with a wrench, open the bleed screw until fluid comes out and the brake lever reaches the handlebar.

3. Close the bleed screw and let go of the brake lever. Sometimes if there is some air in the master cylinder (MC) the piston will not come out partially or completly because it won't suck the brake fluid through the comp port. If this is the case, shake the brake lever quickly which will move the air bubble and get the piston to come back out.

4. Check to see if there is adequate fluid in the reservoir to keep comp port flooded.

5. Repeat 1 thru 4 until bubbles stop coming out of the caliper (that is what the clear tube is for) or the fluid noticibly changes color from ~yellow to clear or you can tell the lever is noticibly firm. I prefer all three together.

6. Repeat 1 thru 5 for right caliper (while sitting on bike).

7. Repeat 1 thru 5 for rear caliper, substitute brake lever for brake pedel. The rear brake is a lot easier to bleed. Bleed the brakes until the reservoir is nearly empty and refill with brake fluid and nearly empty again. Fill to full line and you should be done.

This is what worked on my '82 GS850G. YMMV.

Good Luck!

ETA: Make sure you are using a NEW bottle of brake fluid and not one that has been sitting in your garage for the last 5 years. Brake fluid is extremely hydrophillic (loves water) and once the seal is broken, will continue to take in water.

[maro]

Thank you so much for that how-to. Question.. What am i bleeding into? Just any random container. I've read that I should let the hose out above the liquid once in a container. Am I way off?

thanks

[BassCliff]

Thank you so much for that how-to. Question.. What am i bleeding into? Just any random container. (?)

Yes, but one that you can somehow see into, like a 1 gallon bucket.

I've read that I should let the hose out above the liquid once in a container.

You just want to see if the end of the hose is letting out air bubbles or a solid stream of new fluid. A clear 'bleeder hose' would help. Take the waste fluid to your local oil recycling center.

That reminds me, I need to replace my brake fluid too.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[walt]

I find using clear battery vent tubing helps you to see when the line out no longer shows air passing with the brake fluid.. If you have antidive forks you should bleed the antidive first then the caliper on each leg. Left leg first then right leg.

[salty_monk]

Is bleeding really the issue? If the lever doesn't "pump-up" when you pull it a few times in succession then I would say not.

If it doesn't do that it could be an indication that your pads are really low & the pistons are moving a lot more than they would regularly to hit the disk.

It could also suggest that one side is seized & not moving at all.

Just a couple of things to watch out for.....

Dan

[Suzukfan78]

another tip...

When I bleed my brakes I use small clear hose; I get a scrap piece of steel or fishing lead weight and tie it to the end of the hose with picture wire. That keeps your hose securley in whatever container your draining into. Without this, once you start turning your bleed screw the hose turns up and fluid gets everywhere.

[pvtschultz]

Well, any luck?

[jpaul]

I found a drill the same size as the hose that I attach to the caliper, drilled a hole into the top of a water bottle, and just let the brake fluid run into there.

[maro]

Went to the depot of homes. Bought some clear plastic tubing. Stopped by pep boys, bought some new brake fluid. Grabbed a pickle jar. Rolled up sleeves, took off the top of BMC. Added brake fluid to top it off (as it needed it, it was a bit low). Hooked up the clear hose. Then I went to unscrew the valve. Wouldn't budge . . . to the point I started stripping it. WTF!! This seems to be the name of the game for my bike. I STILL haven't gotten my crank case bolt off. ERRR. Anyway, I don't have an WD-40 with me, so I just but the BMC top back on and took a ride. Adding more fluid certainly helped. The brake lever is def. more responsive. But, I still NEED to bleed this sucker.

[bwringer]

Invest the $25 or so and get a MityVac.

It comes with instructions for vacuum bleeding and is worth every penny in saved time and frustration.

[Schweisshund]