Junque yard complications 1150 style

[Fastrip]

Well I got my basket case to run last night. 3 bikes to build 1. I did everything as it should have been done, the carbs the valves all of the things that were apart were repaired/rebuilt or at least cleaned.
I went through and ran the oil pressure up with the plugs in the wires sitting on the valve cover. I conservatively cranked until the oil light went out. I had a strong blue spark across the board.
Last night I finished up, put the tank on and added some fresh race gas (I really like the smell if nothing else). The thing fired right off. It idled really nice and seemed to repond to a twist very smoothly and quickly.
First thing I noticed was the battery light. I didn't have or take the time to put a volt meter on the battery, I will tonight.
Secondly the clutch is a firm pull (I lubed the cable) and didn't want to let go. That seemed to get better with a little oil temp. I will warm the bike and change the oil tonight.
Third there was a real distinct click like every time the chain went around. I pulled the chain gaurd off but got no further then that last night.
The thing responded well to a little throttle but......... after making a few laps around the block found it impossible to get over 4000rpm.
Lets go back, the bike has a 1230 kit in it. I put the carbs that were on the engine back on (45 pilot, dm160 main and 31/4 turns on the mixture screws. Stock air bow, K&N filter and Vance and Hines pipe.
I am going to get the battery light thing first, being a battery dependent ignition. I will check the timing (I have not yet), change the oil and filter, go through recommended clutch adjustment (I just winged it, I didn't look to see if there were any tricks), I will adjust the mixture screws and go from there.
Any suggestions would be gladly accepted.

Fastrip

[bonanzadave]

First thing I noticed was the battery light. I didn't have or take the time to put a volt meter on the battery, I will tonight.

Youll know when you put the meter on it. It may just be the battery sensor is missing from a cell in the battery. If so, and you can find that sensor wire, connect it to the + battery terminal and the light should go out.

The rest is too much for me to digest. Lots of variables with the piston kit, pipe & pods. Someone here will have the info you need. Good Luck !

[Carter Turk]

I think you might want to come down about 30 sizes on the main jets.

Stock mains on the 1150 are 120 on 1-4 and 122.5 on 2-3.

I have a 1230 kit as well, but I'm running pods and GSXR carbs. My mains are 142.5 at the moment, with a "Factory" jet kit installed.

I think when I had the stock carbs on with pods I was running 135 mains and 47.5 pilots, but that was stock bore.

So If you still have an airbox on, I think your 160 mains are bogging you down.

[Fastrip]

Well my task master (my 11 year old son) gave me last evening off. Something about having worked on the bike, starting last weekend and after work every day before yesterday, and the 18-19 hours those days ended up being, that wore me out. Tonight is a World of Outlaw show for which we have tickets so Saturday will be the first day back at it.
I have a fresh set of plugs for starts. I will check the voltage but I think I will lean the mains some and raise the needles before I do anything.
I have a little oil seepage from the sending unit block or one of the units under the carbs I will look after right away since I will have the carbs out of the way.
I am just winging the jetting and appreciate any help, thank you.
I should get some pictures posted and results sometime Saturday evening.

Fastrip

[Dave8338]

If you're running rich on the mains, I'd suggest to rejet them and leave the needles where they are until you get a chance to do some comprehensive plug chops and find out how things are running in the midrange. Just a suggestion. :?

[Fastrip]

Well my son and I got to go for a nice little ride this afternoon. Neither of us cared it was a little misty.
I tried a few things as the problem just felt electrical. I mean the thing didn't load up or have a lean crack. It just wouldn't go past 4000 just like there was some kind of rev limiter going on.
I leaned the screws out a turn and the thing ran the same. My son swapped out the igniter box to no avail. I wanted to do something somewhat radical to see if I could find something that would change things. I took the top off the air box. I didn't remove the filter and since the K&N had to be just about squeezed to be installed I knew it wouldn't move. The next thing you know I am on one wheel smiling so hard I nearly broke my face. The bugs taste no different then they did the last time I rode.
So do I stay with the nice and quiet airbox and go down to a 130-140 something main jet....... or install filters? I like being able to converse with my passengers so the quiet thing really stands out. On the other hand I really like the double filters K&N offers. Their R2300 has a 3 1/16 center to center with a 2 1/16'' boot. The RU2922 (GSXR stuff) has a 3'' center to center but is made for 2 3/8'' carbs not 2 1/8''. I am thinking the 1/16th of an inch in a couple of places will be easy enough to work around.
Any suggestions?
Do I drill one of the old pipes I have (Hindle or Kerker) and EGT the thing? I could but it's not like I am often going to run this monster full throttle in any of the top gears. We'll see.
I have to say, my 11 year old son and I struck a new level of unity with this project. He did just as much as I did. I got back from every test ride and he would be standing there with his helmet on (he wanted to feel how it ran). God is really really good to me, every day.

[Fastrip]

I guess i can't say everything is peachie in paradise. It seems my old 1150 will go about 31 miles on a battery charge. I got to about 30 miles when the battery light came on and at 31 it stopped. I was close to home and a jump charge from a friend got me home.
I checked the wires to the windings and they are all good nothing shorted out. I will change the regulator rectifier today and see how that works. I found a small little volt meter that will get mounted somewhere near the speedo cluster. I will need a little reassurance, at least for a while.
The couple of people that saw the bike (while I was sitting along the road waiting for help) complimented the bike. Heck one of the guys even knew what it was, to the year.

Fastrip

[Dave8338]

You'll have to do a voltage test both static and running. Static should read around 11.5-8 V and running at 3000-4000RPM's should show 14.4V. If you don't see these #'s the first thing that I'd suggest is to pull all the connectors apart and clean them and then add a dab of dielectric grease and put them back together. Pay special attention to the grounds and specifically the ground wire to the r/r...black with white stripe. Some run a wire directly to the ground post on the battery, I rerouted it to the mount for the solenoid and have had no futher charging problems.

To clean the gang plugs and bullet connectors, I like to use copper pipe cleaner / flux. The stuff works great, removes all the oxidation on the brass pins and all with little or no effort. Good luck.

[Fastrip]

You were quite correct. There was 1 spade on the rectifier/regulator that was discolored. I cleaned things up and had 14 volt at idle.
I managed to get a little over 100 miles. The bike runs well. It seems a little rich but it was close to 90 yesterday. I will ride again this afternoon, it's supposed to top out in the high seventies with far less humidity.


Thank you