Replacing the starter clutch.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hey guys, just want to touch base with you on this.
I've never had to replace the starter clutch before or remove the rotor. I'm just asking you to read this and offer any tips that may help me get this done right without too much trouble.
I have a genuine Suzuki starter clutch assembly and gear on order. I ordered the rotor puller too.
Doing a search and reading all the past posts here, it appears I should have no real trouble loosening the bolt that holds the rotor on. I don't have an impact gun or the very expensive rotor holder that I've only seen in my factory manual. A past post by Hap says a piece of wood to lock the rear wheel should allow me to loosen and properly re-torque the rotor bolt when finished. I don't want to sound like I'm doubting but I want the job to go smoothly. Will this method work? Do you think the force involved can stretch or damage the chain? If I have to, I'll come up with some kind of rotor holder but I hope to avoid it. I hear a lot about rotor pullers, but nothing about the rotor holder. I just know I'm not spending $130 for the holder (3 years ago), if it's even still available. An impact gun is great to remove the rotor bolt, but it won't help me re-torque correctly unless I can stop the rotor from turning.
I think I have the technique down to use the rotor puller tool correctly. Thread the socket down firm, then thread in the bolt firm, then give a good whack with a hammer, brass preferred. Turn in the bolt a bit more to get more bite, whack, etc, until loose. I've heard many here screw things up somehow and I want to avoid that.
I'm a little unsure of what type of loctite to use on the 3 clutch bolts (blue?) and the center bolt that holds the rotor on (blue again?). The factory manual mentions "Thread lock super 1332B" for the center bolt and "1361A" for the 3 starter clutch bolts. I don't know how those numbers relate/compare to loctite brand.
My bike was making a loud "Clack" sound while starting and it got more frequent. I hope I didn't wait too long to repair it. I heard a new sound on the way home today and it's coming from the stator cover. In fact, if you place the palm of your hand on the emblem, the sound is much quieter but still there. Kind of a buzzing/spinning sound, like something may be touching the case lightly inside and resonating through the emblem somehow. Only happens right at 1700 to 1800 rpm, no other time at all. I had to drive it about 30 miles like this. I never had the free spinning problem that many mention, just the loud clack sound and now this new sound. I plan to open it up before the parts get here. I hope I don't see damage other than the starter clutch.
Thanks for reading and any tips or suggestions are appreciated.

[SqDancerLynn1]

You have the right idea with the remover tool. The board should work, use a few rags to protect ithe wheel. Or have a helper step on the brake. The chain is much stronger than you are. Klack noise guessing the starter clutch housing is cracked or bolts loose. Be carefull not to drop the washers on the idler gear into the oil pan when you remove the cover

[gert du prez]

in the thread 'how to lock rotor' you can find the Loctite number that I used - successfully - for the rotor and the bolt.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks for the replies. Bumping this up so I can get this noticed as much as possible.
Off to work. You all have a great day!

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Bumping up again. Any help? What about the loctite needed?

[t3rmin]

For rotor removal with a bolt-style remover "tool", I've always had good luck using one wrench that fits the flat spots on the rotor and another that fits the bolt. Align so one points left and one points right (such that things will turn in the proper direction), put one hand on each, and use your body weight and lots of muscle to push down on 'em both. It also helps to have a buddy lightly bop the rotor with a rubber mallet. You won't damage it with light hits with a rubber mallet.

Takes much huffing and puffing. ;-)

[Carter Turk]

Keith,

I had my starter clutch bolts break or strip out 4 times, so I don't know if you trust my judgement.

I've used red loctite on all the parts you mentioned and starter clutch bolts still loosened.

I used it on the rotor nut and found my rotor rubbing the stator. My rotor magnet exploded once.

The latest was the starter clutch bolts backed out, but since they're captured, they didn't come out all the way. I have a ,longer than stock dowel pin machined into the rotor to prevent the bolt breakage. Some GS's have this stock.

Some folks say not use loctite on the taper, but with all my problems I tryed this and had great difficulty getting the rotor off. I actually destroyed the rotor puller. I forgot to do the tapping after snugging up the bolt.

As for the rotor holder I've never tryed wood, but used a piece of angle iron and a 4'' C-clamp cut in half and bolted to the angle iron. I cut the swivel tips off the C-clamp so they fit into the two holes on the rotor. The angle iron needs to be long enough to touch the ground when torquing to 100 ft lbs.

Good luck with whatever method you choose and have fun with the three springs and pins in the starter clutch.

[omaharj]

I heard this one AFTER I did mine--------Have someone hold the brake!!!:shock:

[earlfor]

I've never used any kind of loctite on the taper when installing the rotor. Never had one come loose either. When I place the rotor on the shaft, I turn it slowly while pressing down by hand to be sure its going on seated squarely.
If there are any "hard" spots found while rotating and pressing the rotor by hand, I would check the seat surface and do a little light dressing, Getting it placed squarely and torqued correctly seems to be the key.


Earl