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**bonanzadave** · 08-09-2007, 02:44 PM

I think we all have that same leak. Some one was just talking about it. That bolt that goes from the bottom up, right in the middle of the head, on the front side by the exhaust pipes. Thats where mines leaking. Not bad enough to tear it down. Looks to be a big project.

**chef1366** · 08-09-2007, 03:53 PM

You also need to order a new head gasket. To be safe I'd order base gasket, valve cover gasket, cam chain gasket, two o-rings for two middle head bolts, gasket tack to hold gaskets in place and ring compressors. If the bike has alot of miles I'd have a machine shop check the cylinders and put a hone on them. Also give the head a good cleaning and make sure the valve springs are good and the valves aren't cupped. Also put new piston rings on.
I'm not trying to scare you but if you're going to take the top end off treat yourself and do it right.

**AOD** · 08-09-2007, 03:58 PM

Hello, my '83 GS1100E has started leaking oil out the front of the block just above where the exhaust pipes bolt in. My guess is the cylinder gasket is going out. I replaced the valve cover gasket about 6 months ago, so that should still be good.

My valve cover gasket lasted three months (original Suzuki gasket) before it started leaking again. When it leaks down the front of the engine, it makes it look like it's leaking from that bolt that goes upward.

I'd wash the bike good, start it up and double check the leak location. You can use spray-on deodorant on the gasket surfaces. Watch for it to turn black and you'll find the leak.

~Adam

**RollingFrosty1100** · 08-09-2007, 06:00 PM

Hey thank you guys.

Maybe it is my valve cover after all. It is so hard to tell with all the little fins sticking out everywhere. I used a stock paper gasket last time, and now I have a thicker silcone gasket from Real Gaskets. I will try replacing that first before tearing apart the whole engine. Thanks for the deoderant trick as well.

I love this site. These forums and Craigs List are the best things to come out of the internet.

**smagnusen** · 08-09-2007, 07:24 PM

20+ year old engines need new gaskets??? Of course they do. If you do take that engine down past the valve cover, go ahead and replace all the gaskets. A whole set is cheap and it can be done in a day. I was quoted $120 plus for a new head gasket from my local dealer. I got a whole Vesrah gasket set for $70 and every gasket fit perfectly. The last thing you want to do is replace the head gasket and then have to tear it down again 3 months later because something else is leaking (likely having to buy yet another head gasket).

The project is relatively easy - a manual is a must and a friend to help lift and replace the head and block will make your life easier. It's a day's work.

p.s. did you remove all the old gasket material. A 3 month old gasket should not be leaking, paper or otherwise. You should also check and make sure your cover bolts are torqued correctly, 6-8 ft/pounds?

p.p.s. some have reported fixing small head leaks by retorquing the head bolts. Loosen them from inside out and then retorque in the same pattern according to your manuals specs.

**t3rmin** · 08-09-2007, 07:35 PM

Originally posted by smagnusen View Post

p.p.s. some have reported fixing small head leaks by retorquing the head bolts. Loosen them from inside out and then retorque in the same pattern according to your manuals specs.

For retorquing head bolts I follow some advice I heard a while ago: loosen 1/4 turn, tighten 1/2 turn from the inside out in a criss-cross pattern. Done it on two bikes with success.

**RollingFrosty1100** · 08-13-2007, 05:32 PM

Stock Valve Cover Gaskets Suck!

Yep, wouldn't you know! The stock paper/rubber gasket was almost all the way shredded on the verymost insde area behind where the tach cable mounts. It ripped fully apart as I was lifting it out. Seriously, I think that thing was only 5 months old! I would have used the Real Gasket before, but they sent me the wrong model. By the time I explained it to them, took and sent pictures, sent the old one back, and then got the proper cut, it was too late, and I had already went ahead with the stock version.

The new RG fit perfectly. Went all around town trying to find a torque wrench that goes as low as 15 inch pounds, but no luck. Coated all the bolts with blue locktight and just barely finger tightend with the 10mm box. Ran it down to the beer store and back to get it hot, retightend and haven't seen any leaks yet. The orange color will make it easier to spot as well. Def worth the $50!

Hey Cheers! Glug, glug.

When the oil hits the wind and travels down the maze of fins, it can look like it is leaking anywhere and everywhere, then straight to your boot and pantleg! Going to try that spray deodorant trick soon just to make sure. Perhaps switching to synthetic cleaned out the gunkiness to like I have read about in previous posts.

Now on to new upholstry and seat lock and then my 24 year old, 550 pound girlfriend will be ****!

Any recomendations for good repair manual? I know from cars and trucks that Haynes and Chiltons leave alot to be desired!

Thanks again,
-Chris

**AOD** · 08-14-2007, 12:45 PM

Let us know how your RG holds up. I had one of the first RG's on a GS a few years ago on my 550, it never leaked a drop. Other's with the 20 bolt, 16 valve, valve cover have had issues.

My valve cover bolts seem to loosen up no matter how tight I torque them or whether I use loctite.

~Adam

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'83 GS1100E Leaking Oil

'83 GS1100E Leaking Oil

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