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How long does initial clutch wear take?

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    How long does initial clutch wear take?

    So, I changed the friction discs in my '83 GS1100GL's clutch. After changing the pilot jets in the bike's carbs and making a few other adjustments she's back on the road. After the first (fifteen-mile) voyage with the new clutch I've had to make an adjustment to the cable already. How much adjustment am I looking at down the road? For average use, about how long or how many miles does it take for the clutch to assume a normal wear pattern that doesn't require so much cable adjustment?

    #2
    Originally posted by jtolbert View Post
    So, I changed the friction discs in my '83 GS1100GL's clutch. After changing the pilot jets in the bike's carbs and making a few other adjustments she's back on the road. After the first (fifteen-mile) voyage with the new clutch I've had to make an adjustment to the cable already. How much adjustment am I looking at down the road? For average use, about how long or how many miles does it take for the clutch to assume a normal wear pattern that doesn't require so much cable adjustment?
    That all depends on how hard you are on the clutch between shifts. I'd give it 300-500 miles to settle into place, if after that, you are still in the readjust game, you may want to take another look at things.

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      #3
      Cool, thanks for the estimate. I'm betting it'll be fine...It seems like screwing up a clutch job on these bikes would be difficult to do as long as you put things back together in the right order.

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        #4
        Now you've gone and jinxed yourself......:shock:

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          #5
          haha...I'm paranoid about this kind of stuff and there were no parts left over (except the old friction discs)...I think it's all right.

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            #6
            Will the clutch shake/chatter go away as the discs wear in a bit, or did I actually do something wrong?

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              #7
              I hope you soaked them in oil for a few hours before installing them?

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                #8
                I soaked them for a few days before they were installed.

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                  #9
                  So the symptoms are the bike shakes and the clutch "rattles" when you go from not moving to first. Once you're moving the clutch operates normally in any other situation. Anyone else seen this before?

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                    #10
                    Sounds like you've got some glazed spots on your discs...did you change them all or just the fiber discs? I've had it happen on "slightly modified" vehicles :-D, never on stock runners and not on a bike. Did you change out the springs as well? Ever run a friction modifier ie.(STP or similar)they can cause the wet clutch discs to do strange things also.

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                      #11
                      The discs weren't touched and I didn't change the springs. I've never ran any oil additives. Is there anything I can do to the discs to fix the problem?

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                        #12
                        Order some new springs and take out the steels and take steel whool to them. Did you snug all the pressure plate bolts? (Clutch spring bolts)
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #13
                          Yeah, all the bolts were snugged using your typical "star" pattern.

                          My friend suggested laying a sheet of 80-grit on a table top and rubbing the plates over the sandpaper in a circular motion for a few seconds. Is that too harsh?

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                            #14
                            Ordered new steel plates and springs. Installed and all the chatter/jerkiness is gone.

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