Do these things actually help? I suppose in theory the idea of removing metal that has become suspended in the oil will help reduce engine wear but would this little magnet do it? Thanks!
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Magnetic Oil Plug
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Zooks
Of course they work. A huge amount of vehicles are fitted with them as standard in gearboxes, diffs, sumps etc. They catch an enormous amount of metal filings so they must be doing some good.
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rkubik
check first
your stock plug may already have a magnetic insert. Mine does, nice surprise at oil change time.
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Mark whiz
Heck, my GS700ES came from the factory with a magnet in the drain plug. That is pretty typical of any use where gears are involved. I know a lot of Fords come with a big donut magnet in their transmission drain pans and every pan I've dropped like that had at least a 1/4" coating of metallic Crud clinging to the magnet.
If your current plug doesn't have a magnet in it, the cheapest thing to do is just magnetize it. I keep a big ol' speaker magnet around and rub the magnet back and force across top face of the bolt for about 30 seconds before installing the bolt in your pan. Do this at every oil change. Also as a cheap fix, just epoxy a bit of a magnet on the bolt face - just make sure the surfaces are clean first so that the magnet won't ever come loose in your crankcase.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
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Stock GS oil plugs have magnetic inserts, and certainly don't cost anywhere near $9.
I've also found that the threads on aftermarket oil plugs are usually very crudely made compared with the precisely made OEM plug.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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I have one of those and I bought it from that seller. The magnet is MUCH stronger than stock. I'm glad I bought it after my rebuild there was a bit of metal globs atached to it after each oil change. Make sure you get extra copper crush washers because you need to change them after each oil change and the local auto store crush washers are too thick and don't bent to fit like the ones he sells.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Forum SageCharter Member
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
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No worries!
I never change the washer and it never leaks. I just change the oil and filter and go about my merry way. I guess I'm lucky.....I should also add...and this is important... I don't ever over tighten anything.\\/
I used to do it all the time....1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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Originally posted by chuckycheese View PostI never change the washer and it never leaks. I just change the oil and filter and go about my merry way. I guess I'm lucky.....I should also add...and this is important... I don't ever over tighten anything.\\/
I used to do it all the time....1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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michael816
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vic214
Like Mark says, easier to make your own plug magnetic. How I did mine was (along with all my screwdrivers) wrap several coils of wire around it and touch each end of the wire to a 12V battery. Watch for the sparks! Works everytime!
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