1983 GS550 Carb question

[bones]

I have a 1983 GS550 LD that has 2-two barrel carbs instead of 4 single barrels. My question is,how many turns should this srew out and the idle ajuster on the beteew carb what should that be turn out that black knob does't even touch linkage?please help

bones

[MelodicMetalGod]

Bones, welcome to the show!

I've got 4 sets of these carbs right now as part of my project/bike.

You question is worded a bit vaguely, but it sounds as if it relates to the idle set screw? I'd love to help, but I can't quite make out exactly what your question is. Can you restate?

[bones]

ok my bike has just 2-two barrels in in center there is a idle srew it has srew & nut. this srew when turned moves the butterflys how do you set this srew should butterflys be open a little how many turns.and then there is a black knob type srew should be idle ajuster all so but when turn all the in it do not touch the likage need to now how to ajust both srews bones

[bones]

yes it's the idle srew in between the carburaters and then below that is a black knob ilde srew ajuster how many turns out for idle srew and how many turns for ajuster

[MelodicMetalGod]

OK, I think the pic below will help us discuss the parts to ensure that we're talking apples and apples here.

I believe that you're referring to # 17 (Balance Screw) and # 20 (Throttle Stop Screw).

#17 is used to "balance" the butterfly valve assemblies of the two different carb bodies to ensure that both pairs of valves are opening the same amount at the same time. In order to adjust this, you need to syncronize the carbs. There are two methods: Bench Sync (requires carb removal and is not terribly precise) and a true Sync using proper gauges designed specifically for the job (some folks here make their own and others prefer professional tools such as Carbtune. If you search this forum you can find all you need to know about how to do either method.

# 20 is used to set the idle speed AFTER you've syncronized the carbs. While it can be turned out (counter clockwise) to the point where it is not touching, when turned in it should definitely be touching and able to push up (open the throttles) on the throttle assembly coupling. If it can't reach then somethings not right.

Hope this helps.

[bones]

thank you alot got bike run but don't have tack cable.so i can use a tack meter but were do you hook up the leads to?and how many rpm's idling?

[Nerobro]

if it idles solidly, who cares what rpm it is. :-) Yes you could potentially hook up a tach to a plug lead... But it doesn't really matter.

[MelodicMetalGod]

thank you alot got bike run but don't have tack cable.so i can use a tack meter but were do you hook up the leads to?and how many rpm's idling?

No offense intended here bones, but your grammar/syntax/spelling is "unfortunate" enough to make it very difficult to read and understand your posts. Take some time and use punctuation and maybe even a capital letter at the beginning of sentences. Doing so will get you better answers faster. Having said that...

The idle should be between 1000 and 1200.

I'm guessing you don't have a manual for your bike and I can't say enough about how important is to have at LEAST one on hand, but I recommend all three - The Clymers, The Haynes and the Factory Service Manaul (FSM). The first two are available at places like JC Whitney, Bike Bandit, etc. The FSM is available as a free download at RepairManualClub.com. You should get all three at your earliest opportunity to make your wrenching life waaaaayyy easier.

Best of luck!