Front fork seals replacement

[Anonymous]

I am going to try and replace the front fork seals on my 1980 1100E. I have never done this before and would like to know if someone could give me some of the do's and don't for this project. The more information you offer the better.

Thanks All,
Greg

[Gary Lich]

Do a forum search on this topic... you will find a number of very helpful previous posts on changing the seals There is one post in particular that really helped me. If you can't (or don't want to) disassemble the entire fork and remove the fork tube you can (carefully) drill a small hole in the top of the old seal and pry it out with a modified screwdriver. Use the old seal on top of the new one to help drive the new one in place. Put oil in, the fork back on and your done.

[Anonymous]

How do you do a serch for the info. that you need. I have been looking and can't see how or do I have to go through all 50+ pages.

[mcconnell]

Greg . . . here is a reply I posted on this subject last year. Now would also be a good time to change your fork oil:

GS, you have the right idea. If you only want to replace the seals and not disassemble/inspect the rest of the internals, it can be done without taking the fork apart. In a nutshell, like Jojo said, loosen the cap while the fork is still clamped in the triple clamps, then remove the fork leg from the triple clamps. Remove the cap and spring, compress the fork (to protect the chrome the seal slides on), remove the seal retainer, punch a hole in the old seal (may have to use a small drill bit coated with grease), force a long thin screwdriver into the hole, and pop out the old seal. Clean and lubricate the whole tube real well so as not to damage the new seal as you push it down toward its seat. Then using the old seal to cover the new seal, carefully drive it in with a punch. After the new seal is in place, reinstall the retainer, making sure it's seated in its groove.

Also, inspect the chromed area the seal rides on to make sure there aren't any burrs that would damage the new seal.

[Anonymous]

How do you do a serch for the info. that you need. I have been looking and can't see how or do I have to go through all 50+ pages.

Top of any of the forum pages. Directly below the "TheGSResources.com" heading.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the quick fix on the seal. I checked out the process and it dose not seam to be to hard. I am going to change the fork oil at the same time and wondered how and when is the best time. Do you add the oil before you install the new seal or after? Do you pour the oil in where you install the seal or is there a fill spot? How do you verify the new oil level before and after the job. Sorry for all of the questions but I tryed to find the info. by using the search but did not find the answers I needed.

Greg

[Anonymous]

Refill the oil after you install the new seal.
Fork oil goes in the top of the fork. There will be a cap with a large hex head (not sure on the size) that you remove. Oil goes in there.
BUT, this cap retains the fork spring and is under pressure.
It's generally easier to break the cap lose while the fork is still on the bike. Loosen the top triple tree clamp so there is no pressue on the cap's threads (but leave the lower clamp in place for now). This will allow you to remove the cap without having to clamp the fork tube in something. I'd go ahead and remove the spring while the fork is still on the bike. Your going to need it removed to check the oil level anyway. Then put the cap back on before removing the fork to avoid spilling the oil.
After the fork is off, remove the cap and drain the oil. Slowly plunger the fork to get the oil out. You can also pour some kerosene in the fork and slosh it around and work the fork to clean it. I wouldn't use anything but kerosene for this.
After the seal is replaced pour in the required amount of oil and work the fork slowly to distribute the oil. You should also measure the oil level in the fork. This measurement is taken with the spring removed and the fork fully depressed. Measure from the top of the fork tube to the oil level. This is important because even though you poured equal amounts in each fork there may have been some oil left in the fork and also in the container you poured from.

Of course you'll need to get the specs on the amount of oil and oil height. (Can't help ya there).

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. Pete but I have one more question. I have all ready removed the forks from the bike and taken them apart. When I put them back together while waiting for some answers to my questions I noticed that one of the pistons that goes over the springs fits tight and the other was rather loose. Are they made to be an oil seal for that upper fork or dose it matter that it is a little more loose than the other.

Greg

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. Pete but I have one more question. I have all ready removed the forks from the bike and taken them apart. When I put them back together while waiting for some answers to my questions I noticed that one of the pistons that goes over the springs fits tight and the other was rather loose. Are they made to be an oil seal for that upper fork or dose it matter that it is a little more loose than the other.

Greg

Should be an o-ring around them. I'd check to see if one was damaged or excessively worn. Are the plugs different diameters? Maybe they got swapped with something else in the past?
It is a seal but (at least to my thinking) I doubt that it is called on to "seal" much. They certainly aren't airtight. I would think that any oil that got that high would be minimal and probably not moving to fast so it shouldn't get past the seal and I'm sure wouldn't get past the threads on the cap.
If you're sure it isn't loose enough to get cockeyed in the tube while in use and the o-ring looks good I'd say run it.

[Anonymous]

Thanks a Million for the Information Pete.

Greg