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    Intermittent Brake Light

    I'm trying to make sure my bike is ready to ride and have a couple niggles to sort out. Tomorrow is my last day in MSF so the sooner I get it ready the better!

    One of the issues I need advice on is a finicky brake light. It works great with the foot brake, but the front brake lever doesn't actuate it unless fully depressed, and then it flickers at times. Am I right in thinking it's probably the front brake switch? Is that something I can just clean or should it be replaced? How do I clean it.

    I'm new to doing electrical work, so pretend I'm really stupid. I can solder though.

    #2
    dirty contacts and or out of adjustment, follow the wires under the lever into a small plastic bit with two screws holding it to the bottom of the lever mount/ perch.
    it can be adjusted to control when the brake light comes on, you just loosen the screws and slide the housing and test till the brake light comes on just slightly before the brake starts to work.

    you can also remove the screw and take the switch apart and clean the contacts but you have to be very very carefully as it contains very tiny parts that are easy to loose.

    a trick is to place a small stool under the lever with a old pillow on it fluffed to make a bowl shape so any tiny parts dropped fall on the pillow and don't hit the floor and bounce off never to be seen again.

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      #3
      Front brake switch on the master cylinder is pretty finicky. It's adjustable and prone to sticking. If you are pretty good with mechanical stuff very carefully take it apart and clean everything. You will have to adjust it carefully to get it to work properly. If you are ham fisted, order a new one and install - still needs adjustment.

      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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        #4
        Originally posted by focus frenzy View Post
        dirty contacts and or out of adjustment, follow the wires under the lever into a small plastic bit with two screws holding it to the bottom of the lever mount/ perch.
        it can be adjusted to control when the brake light comes on, you just loosen the screws and slide the housing and test till the brake light comes on just slightly before the brake starts to work.

        you can also remove the screw and take the switch apart and clean the contacts but you have to be very very carefully as it contains very tiny parts that are easy to loose.

        a trick is to place a small stool under the lever with a old pillow on it fluffed to make a bowl shape so any tiny parts dropped fall on the pillow and don't hit the floor and bounce off never to be seen again.
        There is limited adjustment on these switches. When I investigated why mine had stopped working the copper contacts had worn away and the assembly had disintergrated.
        I sourced a NOS replacement on Ebay and it's now working fine. The new switches are also very finicky to fit up so use the suggested method above.
        :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

        GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
        GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
        GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
        GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

        http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
        http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

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          #5
          Do it right --- replace it with a Hyd pressure switch $20. Never have to worry about it again

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            #6
            Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
            Do it right --- replace it with a Hyd pressure switch $20. Never have to worry about it again
            More info?

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              #7
              Check here
              With the search feature I found that in less than thirty seconds :-D
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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