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    Igniter test?

    Lately, my bike has been acting up and I can't get rid of a slightly rough engine and slight backfiring on the right side. I don't think it's the carbs so I've tested the electrical components and am somewhat confused. Everything checks out perfectly with my multimeter...except for the igniter. When I do the test according to the manuals (which is way too simple to screw up), I get no spark on either of the 2 test plugs.

    However, the bike runs fairly good and the plugs look perfect. I've seen so much on here about igniters and wonder if that's it or if I'm heading in the wrong direction. In either case, I'm baffled as to why the igniter test isn't showing any spark at all considering that the plugs look good and the bike runs pretty well. Any and all help appreciated!!8-[
    1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

    #2
    Help!!

    Surely, someone must know about this issue....or am I being shunned?? (Just kidding..this was just a "bump")
    Last edited by chuckycheese; 08-22-2007, 10:26 AM.
    1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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      #3
      Surely couldn't be the latter. :-D
      If my ignition ever goes south I'm going Dyna!
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        Dyna

        I will probably also do the Dyna switch but I really need to know what I'm dealing with first. The thing that's so baffling is that the plugs look just fine but I can't get the igniter test (which is so simple) to work at all. Has anyone else ever done the test? Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I don't see how.
        1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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          #5
          I did the test on my 1100 and mine checked out fine. I even removed the igniter, took it up to about 250 degrees in my oven, replaced it (wearing mechanix gloves-it was a hot little puppy) and checked it again. You keep saying the test is "simple", and it is, but make sure you're doing the simple things to test it. Is the power turned on? Are the plugs you're checking for spark properly grounded against the head? Are your electrical leads from the multitester connecting to the correct pins from the igniter connecting block? Is your multitester on the correct setting and does it have fresh good batteries?
          Many times I've screwed up simple tests or repairs because of a "simple" error of procedure on my part.

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            #6
            If you do the test using the diode test mode on a digital multimeter remember to reverse the leads polarity.

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              #7
              Thanks

              Thanks for the suggestions! I tried the test several times and thought about each step very carefully. I considered the points both of you made and I just feel certain I did it right.

              I questioned my own judgment on it because, I too, have messed up some really simple tasks!
              1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

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                #8
                had same problem on de accellaration.cleaned and hooked up main grounds direct to battery.problem was solved.to check for spark i first checked to see if my signal generator had the right readings 290 to 350 ohms.that was o.k. then i just put awrench on timing nut and just moved a bit back and forth pass the pick up.could see lots of spark.ps.when itried clymers manual instructions on checking for spark had no succes

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