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    Cam chain replacement question

    I'm in the process of rebuilding my top end and am going to split my old cam chain and roll on a new one.

    My problem (or ignorance) is that once the I've re-connected the new cam chain and added the link, I'm not sure how to squish or burr the pins to provide assurance that it won't come off. Hammering it or hitting it with a punch comes to mind, but I'm wary of that technique. I don't want to end up binding or damaging the chain or link. Maybe there are better ideas.

    I have the K & L cam chain removal tool, but it doesn't provide a way to do this. To be honest, I don't really think I need to do anything to the link once its back on the chain. Those sucker are on there once you have pressed them in. I can't imagine them coming off. But still, to do it right I guess I need to do something.

    Any ideas on how to go about this? Some kind of tool that will accomplish this task? Thanks.

    #2
    well there are tools for swaging the pins on chains with master clip-less master links, odds are there is one for that small size chain, I just don't know who has them.

    you will notice the original chain is endless and replacement ones are endless as well, many people feel it is unsafe (for the engine) to fabricate a cam chain and not use the correct endless chain. I used to be one of those people before it occurred to me that there are millions of bikes running around with master clips on their drive chains and properly installed and lubed they are perfectly reliable. so a chain with less load enclosed inside a engine with plenty lubrication.

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      #3
      Yeah, in my case I think I'm pretty safe. I've played around and experimented with another 850 cam chain on a practice motor I have, and have also bought a few extra links to practice on the new chain.

      In my case, it seems that when the link goes on, its on there to stay, so I'm not too worried about failure. I just can't see it ever moving. Other cam chains may be different if my info. is right.

      Jeff at Z1 said I could use a sharp cold chisel and just strike the pin in the center, creating a small burr. If I can't find any other tool or info. at this point that's probably what I'll try to do.

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        #4
        I had a chain swagging tool for bicycle chains here someplace and they are similar in size to a cam chain. it has a slot that the chain slides in and you line up the pin and screw down the tapered pin and it perfectly spreads the pin. you go slowly and keep checking till all the end play is gone.

        I have never tried it on a cam chain but I have never had a bike chain coma apart after using it.

        I got it at a bike shop, you could take the new chain with you to a bike shop and see if it fits.

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          #5
          That's a great idea, I'll check that out.

          Comment


            #6
            I did this last year on an XJ turbo. I just used the flat end of a ball peen hammer as an anvil (held sideways) then peened the pins with another smaller ball peen. I took it slow so as not to over-swage the pins. It worked perfectly.

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              #7
              I used bolt cutters to crimp the ends on my old XS650s. Never lost a chain.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #8
                I used the side of an axe as a backing block and ball peen hammer to peen the end of the pins. Never came loose. hehe
                I now have the crimp tool for installing peen on links.

                Earl

                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                I used bolt cutters to crimp the ends on my old XS650s. Never lost a chain.
                Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Uh Earl, I was serious. :-D
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Mike's XS sells the tool for $39 - not cheap. If it were me I'd just find some way to get something against the the back side of the pin to support it and then peen it over with a hammer and punch of some sort. Just go slow and don't pinch it so hard the chain binds.
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by earlfor View Post
                      Never came loose. hehe
                      Thanks for the support Earl.

                      Seriously, really appreciate the ideas and input guys.

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