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    #1

    master Idle screw

    The tech form just isn't the same without me nobin it up.

    A quick, simple question: If the idle screw isn't screwed in at all, should the engine be able to start at all, aka, no fuel is getting to the engine.


    ok, heres my rant/story (don't have to read this at all =p)
    I'm trying to sync my carbs at the moment. after my first sync, things seemed ok except for the fact that the lowest it would go was 1500 and it took forever to get back to that point after the throttle was touched. a quick serch yeilds two words, "air leak."

    ok, new boots (both sides of the carbs) are on their way (and i'm down even more money...i'm really glad i'm not keeping count...probably could have bought a new bike that i would have been able to actualy ride this...year). I'm trying to find out what else could be wrong while it takes bikebandit 2 weeks to ship it to me (wish i lived either in the midwest or CA, can't seem to get decent shipping speed anywhere on the east coast).

    I messed up my first sync in two ways: vent hose wasn't hooked up to anything (didn't see anything about it till AFTER i did the sync) and I forgot to tighten the nuts, so my sync quickly became worse than before.

    When i go to sync the beast today, it quickly races to 3-4k rpms after it gets warm. the idle screw is not screwed in at all and all that other good junk. i'm going to play with it a little bit while i wait i guess =/
    Tags: None
    #2
    Check your throttle cable adjustment.

    Although the idle screw might not be engaged, there might be too much tension at the cable, holding it open.


    .
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    Comment

      #3
      nada, i made sure it was loose and there's a little give in the wire.

      Comment

        #4
        I just resolved a similar issue. I made two parts changes and serviced the entire air/fuel path to the engine at once, so I'm not sure if one or all were part of the solution, but the problem is gone.

        1) I replaced the intake boots and o-rings from the carbs to the engine. These are notorious for allowing air leaks if the parts have any age on them.

        2) I replaced my carbs. My originals were fine except that two of the pilot screws were frozen, thus the replacement. The new pilot screws are currently two turns out...I still need to tune the bike, but I get a steady idle after warm up at 1000-1200 RPM, just like spec.

        3) I removed and cleaned (w/WD-40) every bit of rubber booting from the airbox intake (near the battery under the seat) all the way up to the carbs. When I put it all back I paid extra special attention to ensuring that each and every sealing surface was making the best contact possible and then I tightened up each retaining ring and double checked the seal again.

        Like I said, not sure which of these was the big culprit, but I suspect that the new o-rings up front were the biggest improvement. After that I figure it was pretty likely that I had muffed getting a good seal somewhere further back, probably the carb to airbox boots, but who knows.

        Hope this helps. Best of luck!

        Comment

          #5
          Don't bother trying to sync the carbs if you have intake leaks. Install the new parts when you get them and start over. Adjust the idle mixture first to get the highest rpm and don't forget to change the carb boot o-rings.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment

            #6
            Everything is based off the #3 carb, if you loose the baseling your FKed. WIth the idle screw out Make sure the throdle blade on the #3 carb is closed -- Adjust if needed, then go on to sync

            Comment

              #7
              You see the rubber of the intake hoses disconnected where the base of the metal is, it looks like an obvious leak right there... as much as i (/sarcasiam on) LOVE to take the carbs off, guess i'll do that too...

              but back to my obvious question....

              under optimal conditions, should the engine get any fuel if the the idle screw isn't screwed in at all?

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Fare View Post
                but back to my obvious question....

                under optimal conditions, should the engine get any fuel if the the idle screw isn't screwed in at all?

                I believe the answer is yes as the pilot circuit mix (air and fuel mix) is delivered after the butterfly valves. This mix is controlled by the pilot screw for each barrel.

                Having said that, if the butterfly is 100% closed, I don't know that the pilot mix alone would be quite enough to start or maintain idle.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by MelodicMetalGod View Post
                  I don't know that the pilot mix alone would be quite enough to start or maintain idle.

                  that doubt alone is enough for me. it just means i rip everything apart while i wait for the boots.

                  Comment

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