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Tuning Question 83 550e

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    Tuning Question 83 550e

    I have an 83 550E. The carbs have been rebuilt and were bench sync'd. The bike is air tight and the plugs are new along with the rectifier. The bike needed to be "fine tuned" (vac synced ?) It was not running quite right. I brought it to a shop (mechs have moocho years exp) and explained what the bike needed. I got a call today and was told the bike was putting out approx half it's horsepower (about 22) They said it could be out of time or a valve adj issue. (That was only where they wanted to start, it could be something else.) The question is how hard is it to adj the valves and check or adjust the timing? Are any special tools required? The bike has 17000 miles on it and as far as I know, the valves have never been touched. The bike did have a leak down test done to it 3 years ago and there was only 5% max on all the cyls. Apparantly that is good. If you need any more info, please let me know. Any help/ info would be great. Thanks.....

    #2
    You have the simple Tappet screw adjustment for the valves. It is very simple to do. Get the bike back from the mechanics and you've found the right place for help. (Here) :-D
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks, I've gotten alot of good info here already. After reading the Haynes manual, I see there is no way to adjust the timing on this bike. Is that right? Also, if the cam chain has "jumped a tooth" how hard is it to set it back? Shouldn't I be able to loosen the tensioner, pick the chain off the sprockets and move it so everything lines up? I really don't want to pay a shop several hundred dollars.....Thanks
      Last edited by Guest; 08-27-2007, 04:30 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 550ERAT View Post
        Thanks, I've gotten alot of good info here already. After reading the Haynes manual, I see there is no way to adjust the timing on this bike. Is that right? Also, if the cam chain has "jumped a tooth" how hard is it to set it back? Shouldn't I be able to loosen the tensioner, pick the chain off the sprockets and move it so everything lines up? I really don't want to pay a shop several hundred dollars.....Thanks

        No disrespect intended toward the mechanic in question but it's very unlikely that their is either a ignition timing or valve timing issue. The ignition timing is set from the factory and is not adjustable. The valve timing is even less likely to change unless someone messed up the camchain tensioner.

        If it were me I'd focus my energy on adjusting the valves. While the valve cover is off check the valve timing if you want.

        Good luck.
        Last edited by Nessism; 08-27-2007, 05:03 PM.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks, that is my thinking too. I will check the alignment marks and the valve clearances. I will probably check all electrical stuff too. I know it's not the carbs, so, what else could there be? Pretty much just seems to need more power. What is the horsepower of this bike? anyone? And. would valves out of adjustment drastically effect the performance?

          Comment


            #6
            Do a compression check before and after the valve adjustment.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Valve adjustment has an effect on compression? Really?

              Comment


                #8
                If the clearance is too tight it doesn't allow the valve to seal. It'll rob compression and power.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  AHA.....Thanks. Do you think valves out of adjut would rob 1/2 the bikes HP?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I think the valve adjustment is the right track. I have yet to do that to my bike, but it's on the list for the winter. Everyone I've heard from agrees that valve adjustment is paramount to tuning the bike. I've heard quite a few statements such "If the valves are out of adjustment, tuning is impossible." I've also seen (online) plenty of seemingly hopeless issues that have ultimately been resolved by adjusting the valves.

                    I'm fortunate that my valves are at least close enough that my bike is somewhat tuneable, but I suspect that this winter I'll find that I'll be able to improve the bike with a valve adjustment.

                    Best of luck!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well I guess it's a good place to start. My concern is I am being told I am losing approximatley 1/2 of my total HP. HMMMMMMM Guess I am gonna become a m/c mechanic after all.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by MelodicMetalGod View Post
                        I think the valve adjustment is the right track. I have yet to do that to my bike, but it's on the list for the winter. Everyone I've heard from agrees that valve adjustment is paramount to tuning the bike. I've heard quite a few statements such "If the valves are out of adjustment, tuning is impossible." I've also seen (online) plenty of seemingly hopeless issues that have ultimately been resolved by adjusting the valves.

                        I'm fortunate that my valves are at least close enough that my bike is somewhat tuneable, but I suspect that this winter I'll find that I'll be able to improve the bike with a valve adjustment.

                        Best of luck!

                        No disrespect intended but why don't you just do the valves now.8-[ I would NEVER run a bike for any period of time without checking them since you could burn up the exhaust valves and maybe even the valve inserts in the head. For a screw and lock nut valve train it's a very easy job.
                        Ed

                        To measure is to know.

                        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                        Comment


                          #13
                          yes you will need special tools .... find out from the manual what the valve clearance is then you have to get a thing a ma jiggy (forgot what its called) to measure the valve clearance. Its like a spark plug gapper. total cost is probably a couple of dollars.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It's a "feeler guage" Get the numbers out of your Haynes manual and make sure the one you buy has the proper sizes. As I had changed out my cam to the yoshimura race set I have my valves adjusted to their maximum height. It may not be correct but the thing goes like a raped ape.

                            you'll need a feeler guage, combination wrench(6mm or 8mm) and a set of pliers.

                            Make sure you rotate the cam lobes around as you are adjusting the valves. Doesn't do you much good if you are checking clearances and the valve is depressed all the way. Read up in the Hayne's their directions are pretty good.

                            You can't adjust the timing really but the plate for the pulse can slip. Check it and make sure the marks are all aligned the way they are supposed to be.

                            It's not that difficult and simply following along the Hayne's can get you through it. What helps me is opening everything up and reading through the instructions twice. While everything is in the open as it mentions a part I inspect and touch the part. Then after I get a feel of where everything is at I'll go through and affect the repair.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thanks much. do you think I would lose 1/2 the HP with the valves out of adjustment? I am picking the bike up today and they are going to show me some data they have from my bike (some type of graph showing the power loss). Will post when I have info.

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