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Upside down Main Jet swap

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    Upside down Main Jet swap

    I've ordered one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...146309846&rd=1

    which I hope will work on the float bowl screws.

    Anyone know:

    1. Will I need new bowl gaskets? (I know they've been off in the last year)
    2. Will I need to sync after swapping the jets?
    3. What is the best way to drain the gas? Just release the plug & hold some kind of yogurt pot or similar under there?

    Any further tips appreciated. I know Keith has done it this way before & I presume others have too.

    Thanks,

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    #2
    Bowl gaskets are pretty sturdy so that shouldn't be a problem.
    Always sync the carbs after removing them.
    To drain the gas I remove the carbs and put the vent lines in a bucket and turn the carbs upside down. Some gas spillage is expected.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Dan, what are you doing? Putting smaller mains in?
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        Hmm... good luck. It's tight under there!

        Comment


          #5
          Duh on my part. I now see you're trying to swap the main with the carbs on the bike. Yeah, just drain the float bowls into a small bowl or something. I would still sync again though. Can't hurt.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Dissenting opinion: if you're not disturbing the linkage, no need to sync. ;-)

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks! I know it's tight, I'll give it a go, if it won't go I'll pull them off I have some new O rings.

              Going to fit the stock 115 mains that Kent sent me when I get around to it. The pilots & Needles pull strongly with the K&N inbox so figured I'd switch the mains over & see what happens.

              Interestingly with no load & no filter it runs strong on pilots & WOT but nothing on the needles.

              My usual bank & forwards is all on the pilots or needles anyway & the plugs are not that far off (or not enough to worry!)

              Just tinkering really
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

              Comment


                #8
                It's not worth the aggravation, carbs only take 10 minutes to remove

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hard to say about the bowl gaskets. If they look good and no gasket material is stuck/torn off on the bowls or carb body, you may be able to re-use them. If the bowl screws are tightened well and it leaks, that's your answer.
                  Changing jets doesn't effect the synch of the throttle plates.
                  Just remove the bowl drain screws to release the fuel in the bowls. Upon re-start, use the prime on the petcock.
                  If you use that tool, be sure that you use enough upward force when turning or you can strip the screw heads. I use a short screwdriver for the phillips heads or hex key for hex screws.
                  I have no problem working the carbs on the bike, but many others may have I suppose.
                  And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                  Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks again Keith. I will be armed with short phillips as well as this tool when I give it a go... if they don't give up easy I'll take the rack out.

                    Dan
                    1980 GS1000G - Sold
                    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
                      It's not worth the aggravation, carbs only take 10 minutes to remove
                      That might be true for a couple of people here but for the vast majority it's not.

                      I would be more worried about not being able to apply sufficient leverage to the screw and bit slipping out. Repeated efforts could ruin some of the screws, requiring an inevitable removal of the carbs and replacement of the screws.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by N56629 View Post
                        That might be true for a couple of people here but for the vast majority it's not.

                        I would be more worried about not being able to apply sufficient leverage to the screw and bit slipping out. Repeated efforts could ruin some of the screws, requiring an inevitable removal of the carbs and replacement of the screws.
                        True. I've had no problems removing bowls on a bike but others may.
                        It depends on the quality/fit of the tool you use and screw condition. I always replace the Phillips with Allens and that eliminates any problem.
                        And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                        Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                        Comment

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