Newbie needs help setting up suspension '83 GS750ES

[scharfg]

Hi there as I bought the bike used so I don't have a manual and I understand that having the correct suspension set up can make or break the ride quality/safety/performance. I'm planning on going on a 1100 mile ride this weekend and I'd like to have er set up to the right settings.

Is there a guide out there somewhere that can explain how to set my '83 GS750ES suspension up?

I am 5'9" and weigh ~190lbs if that helps.

Thanks in advance folks!

[chef1366]

Do the forks have a preload and/or dampening setting and/or screws?

You can set the rear preload by turning the bottom portion of the shock.

[Steve]

Ideally, you want to have the suspension "sag" about 1 to 1.5 inches when you are on the bike.

Start by getting someone to help you, you will also need a tape measure. Put the bike on the centerstand, measure the distance from the rear axle to a fixed point on the frame, or measure the length of the shocks. You can measure the far sides of the mounts, it does not have to be center-to-center. Note that measurement. Take the bike off the centerstand, check the measurement again. Sit on the bike with only minimal weight supported by your toes. Measure again, this time you are looking for the 1 to 1.5 inch sag. Adjust your preload collars to achieve this.

Pretty much the same for the front, but measure from the top of the fork slider to the bottom triple tree. Measure fully-extended on the centerstand, then on the wheels, then with you on it. Adjusting the front suspension might involve installing spacers inside the tubes or pressurizing with a few pounds of air. If you are going to install spacers, might as well install Progressive springs, too.

Note that if you will carry a passenger, you should check the rear suspension with your passenger on, too.

.

[t3rmin]

I'm 5'9" and 190lbs and an almost identical bike and I have preload and damping right in the middle. Feels great.

For a really long ride like that I might go a little softer, though.

[marz]

my manual says

not alot..



-----------------------------------soft&standard---------hard

frt.tire pressure.---------------- 20kpa ----------------30-40 kpa
-----------------------------------(0.2kg/cm2)----------(0.3-0.4kg/cm2)

rear spring setting----------------1--------------------- 3

reardampner setting-------------1-----------------------3


this is a box set up imagine lines.
it also says no1 position on the setting on rear shock is the softest and 4 stiffest.

warnig other than those listed in the table (box thing above)can cause instability. be sure to folow the recomendations.

standard pressure in the frntfork is 20 kpa

personally i have to have my front shocks redone(im not doing this)but the rear i just turn up depending on whative got on the bike. i hope this helps

[scharfg]

Once again you folks surpass my expectations!

Awesome I'll giver a try and go for a ride.

Cheers....

[bwringer]

At the earliest opportunity, deposit the stock shocks and fork springs into the nearest waste receptacle and start over with Progressive springs and shocks (or Hagon, or Ikon, or Works).

The stock stuff was pretty mushy to begin with, and after a few decades, it's beat. Make the best of what you have for this weekend, but be aware it's simply rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic -- the difference with fresh high-quality shocks and springs is amazing.

At least do the fork springs ASAP -- they're relatively inexpensive, and make the most difference to your safety.

[chef1366]

but be aware it's simply rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic --

You come up with some good ones Brian. \\/:-D

[t3rmin]

I disagree, at least in respect to my 700 (and his 750es is almost identical). The stock suspension is superb. It's comfortable and handles like a dream. Adjustable preload and damping on the back mono-shock and balanced air forks with anti-dive (which actually WORKS on mine) in the front. Great for two-up or single. Wouldn't change a thing.

My dual shock GSs were a different story... (ie: sucked)

[Clone]

The two dials on the back one has a 1-2-3-4 setting, this is your rebound, since you are heavier than me, I usually run at 2 you should run 3. The other is preload, there is a little red indicator inside a clear window on the side, crank that up to 4. Put a 1.5" spacer above your fork springs and put in 5lbs of air. That should give you a pretty good ride.

[bwringer]

Even forks with preload adjusters and anti-dive normally benefit greatly from new Progressive fork springs and fresh fork oil, especially if you weigh more than the average 125 pound Japanese test rider.

Some sources for suspension parts:

http://bikebandit.com

(Make sure you understand what you're ordering -- for some dual rear shocks, it's not readily apparent that you order the springs and shocks separately. Decent prices on Progressive stuff, and cheap shipping.)

http://denniskirk.com

A bit more expensive, but fastest and they tell you what's in stock.

http://www.mawonline.com/

Cheap, but very high shipping costs and could take a while.

http://www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/

The US distributor for Hagon shocks and springs. Haven't tried them personally, but many people seem quite happy, and they've got some really nice fully adjustable stuff if you're feeling wealthy.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-shocks-suspension/

Lots and lots and lots of links and setup info here...

Several forum members also swear by their Ikon shocks. I don't know where they got them, though. Racetech cartridge emulators are also a very worthwhile upgrade, but Racetech's application data is suspect and they're known to be very unhelpful. Hopefully, someone can point you to the correct part number if you're interested.

I'd start with new Progressive fork springs with proper preload spacers so you don't have to use air pressure to prop up the front end. (Air is rather unreliable compared to a hunk of pipe.) Some bikes don't need added spacers, so maybe someone with experience with your model can contribute.