#2 carb not kicking in till 3k

[swisherred]

It seems the #2 pipe stays cold most of the time...when I idle its dead, but when i rev it up it is very noticable when it kicks in....I tore the carbs apart and cleaned the snot out of them...had a little white/water in #2...cleaned all that out...but still does this...what am I missing? getting great fire so Im thinking the idle circuit is still clogged somewhere....any thoughts?

[Nessism]

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

http://www.cycleorings.com/

[mortation]

I had the same problem on #3. It was my airbox side boot not sealed all the way. Check your boots

[Steve]

If it remains cold at start-up, it's probably still something in the idle circuit.

Now that the snot has been cleaned out, go ahead and get the rest of the gunk out, too. 8-[
You shouldn't have to take them completely apart to clean the idle circuits. Remove the floats from #2 (that's the inside carb on on the clutch hand side, right?), then remove the jets that you can. Spray carb cleaner through all the jets, poke a copper wire strand through all the jets to make sure they are cleaned out real good. Make sure you have safety glasses on, spray carb cleaner through all the passages in the carb body, too. Poke a wire strand through these holes, too. Follow up with compressed air, and you should be good to go.

If it warms up a bit at idle but still kicks in later than the rest, check your carb sync. Could be that it's just opening later than the others. A good sync will take care of that. Before doing a sync, make sure your valves are properly adjusted.


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[chef1366]

If it's an 80 and up four cylinder the petcock vacuum line is attached to the #2 cylinder which might mean a bad petcock.

[swisherred]

I will..

recheck the carb body and make sure its clear, I know they are not synced at all..dont have a sync tool yet...and I know the petcock was bad...I tore out the diaphram and capped the vacuum line off at the carb and tank...does this affect the carb at all??