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    Head Gasket Leak?

    I have had my 82 GS850 approximately a month. It has 57k miles on it, and runs great. Everything is in great condition, no rusted bolts etc. I'm only the third owner and the second owner had the bike 2 months. Lots of power and idles well around 1300rpm.

    Problem is I've developed an oil leak around the front of the engine. I used powder to find the leak and it seems to come from the screw at the front of the engine. See the pic I uploaded here. Any ideas if this is for sure a head gasket or some problem related to this screw?


    #2
    another image view

    Here is another view of the aforementioned oil leak

    Comment


      #3
      Its a head gasket problem, the only thing related to the screw is that it might be a little loose. You can retorque it, the proper ft. pound spec should be in your manual. Not saying that will work though.

      Comment


        #4
        Don't just tighten it. Lossen it first and then tighten it to spec. It might seal it but probably not. It looks like a liveable leak but a good winter project.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          Don't just tighten it. Loosen it first and then tighten it to spec. It might seal it but probably not. It looks like a liveable leak but a good winter project.
          EXCELLENT point!

          Tightening to specification will NOT ensure anything, as there is increased friction involved in whatever is already on the threads, plus around the bolt and/or washer. This can considerably affect the torque reading, making it appear finished, even if the ultimate compression is well below requirement.


          I would be inclined to remove the bolt completely, clean and oil the threads, then re-insert it and torque it to specification.
          Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
            EXCELLENT point!

            Tightening to specification will NOT ensure anything, as there is increased friction involved in whatever is already on the threads, plus around the bolt and/or washer. This can considerably affect the torque reading, making it appear finished, even if the ultimate compression is well below requirement.


            I would be inclined to remove the bolt completely, clean and oil the threads, then re-insert it and torque it to specification.
            While I agree with cleaning the threads, I would have to say that oiling them would also give you an inaccurate torque reading, as if you use 100 ft lbs on a dry bolt, and 100 ft pounds on an oily bolt, the oil bolt will go in further.

            Comment


              #7
              Where?

              Hey!
              I know this sounds impossible - but I may recognize that bike just from the scarce photos. I know, I knoww...
              But I have turned a lot of wrenches on bikes in my day around here.
              What region of the US are you located? I may be able to give you a helping hint or two?
              Ozarkdrb
              In the freakin' Ozarks!

              Comment


                #8
                camchain galley is the hardest spot to seal up.

                the O ring in that area has shrunk. re torqing most likely only be a short fix if it dosen't actually make the leak worse. time for a head gasket AND center rubber O ring.

                6mm X 1mm bolts take approx 100 inch pounds (less than 10 ft'lbs) be careful

                only oil the threads if a bolt manufactuer states to during installation because hydrolock is enevitable and actually gives you less actual torque(fluids do not compress)(however gasses and solids do), which means the bolt will vibrate loose when you least expect it to.
                SUZUKI , There is no substitute

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks.

                  Originally posted by ozarkdrb View Post
                  Hey!
                  I know this sounds impossible - but I may recognize that bike just from the scarce photos. I know, I knoww...
                  But I have turned a lot of wrenches on bikes in my day around here.
                  What region of the US are you located? I may be able to give you a helping hint or two?
                  Ozarkdrb
                  In the freakin' Ozarks!
                  I'm in Bolivar. So, it's very likely that you might have seen this bike around. Bought it from a young man in Springfield, he'd had it since May of this year. He told me that it had one owner previous to him, and all components are in excellent working order. In fact I plan to take it to Memphis in September.

                  Thanks to all who gave me advice and thoughts on this lovely little oily spot. My manual is on order, so I guess I have a great winter project on my hands. I'll be sure to get that o-ring in on the job.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
                    EXCELLENT point!

                    Tightening to specification will NOT ensure anything, as there is increased friction involved in whatever is already on the threads, plus around the bolt and/or washer. This can considerably affect the torque reading, making it appear finished, even if the ultimate compression is well below requirement.


                    I would be inclined to remove the bolt completely, clean and oil the threads, then re-insert it and torque it to specification.
                    Good point, with a sound suggested fix. But that 6mm bolt is the minor cause of your oil leak. It's origin is the head gasket which is probably leaking past the rectangular shaped seal surrounding the timing chain galley/tract. This rubber/neoprene seal deteriorates with age.
                    To remedy your leak, you need to re-torque all the head studs, not just that front bolt. Even then you have only around a 5% chance that you can sucessfully re-seal your old head gasket. Plan on having to do a top end re-build next winter.
                    :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

                    GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
                    GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
                    GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
                    GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

                    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
                    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I'm not sure about the 850, but my 1100 had the same problem. The two front center head bolts had O-rings that had shrunk and hardened over time. If those are part of the 850's head bolts, replace those O-rings and that should do the trick.

                      mushman

                      Comment


                        #12
                        My Old Bike

                        Dude!
                        If that is a GS850L with Jardine pipes , and a Suzuki "S" on the seat, that iIS my old bike!!!
                        I can tell you everything that has ever been done and when on that cruiser.
                        It is a solid set of wheels, no doubt.
                        If you ask me nice, I'll even tell you it's secrets and how much the guy in Spfld paid me for it!!
                        Small freakin' GS world!!!
                        Ozarkdrb

                        Comment


                          #13
                          My old Bike

                          There were THREE previous owners before the guy you bought it from!
                          Ozarkdrb

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I've had success on two GSs with head gasket leaks with re-torquing the head. Since accurate torque readings at this point are tenuous at best, I just did a quarter turn loose and a half turn tight, starting from the middle and going out in a criss-cross pattern. Worked like a charm. Yeah you'll be over torquing it a bit, but it'll be even.

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