clean plugs

[chef1366]

What jet kit is it?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Have you tested each jetting circuit at the throttle position it regulates?
Main = full, jet needle = 1/3, and pilot = minimum throttle.
You need to separate the circuits to see what they're doing. The carbs must be vacuum synched before this and the mixture screws adjusted for highest rpm.
Earlier, you said #2 looked lean so you increased the mains. But what did the other 3 look like at that time? Regardless if the reads are rich or lean, if the carbs are equally adjusted and all other tuning is correct, you should get fairly UNIFORM reads.
From past posts, quite a few 1100 owners have found success with the jet needle at position 4 from the top, and some others have said position 5 was right. Interesting how you say you "hit a wall" at 5K regardless of speed or throttle position. Does it clear up soon after or what? Do you think it's a rich or lean condition?
What size mains are stock on your model?

[1100lt]

I'm not sure what the stock jets were.(Bike was in a basket from p.o) The bike runs great right up to 5500 rpm's Out of gear if Irev it it will go over 5500 I even tried to pull the choke up to see if it helped but I got nothing. It doesn't matter if I'm trying a hole shot or cruising at 60 and hitting the throttle it just dies at 5500 all throttle positions. The clip is set at the 4 notch. It almost seems like when I put the main air correctors in it started doing that would that make it happen? By the way chef it's a dynojet kit and it says "install dj165 main jets or if you are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip ons with high flow baffles use dj170 main jets" Wouldn't the v&h pipe fall into this category? By the way the stage 1 kit says to install dj 118 mains if you are running a stock airbox and an aftermarket exhaust. That is quite a swing for the pods verses the the k@n filter in the stock air box 118 to 170's. Thanks again Dan

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've seen many owners over oil their K&N's and the result is a wall when opening the throttle beyond about 1/4. You'd be surprised how easy it is to apply too much oil, even when you read the K&N instructions.
"Oiling each pleat" causes over oiling in my opinion.
If any doubt, I'd clean then correctly, rinsing with K&N cleaner or mild solution of 409/similar. The flow of these filters can be permanently compromised by cleaning them wrong. Clean in a shallow pan with 1/4" deep of solution. Try to keep solution from pouring into the filter. Just roll the filter or dip and rotate it. Rinse with only low pressure/faucet. Rinse from THE INSIDE OUT ONLY. Shake off and air dry only.
Kind of hard to explain well, but when oiling, I make a quick pass from about 4" and I hit approx' 2 to 3 pleats per pass. No over lapping. Works for me.
As for the main jet choice in the kit, what are the stock mains again?
I'm not arguing with DJ but I think an increase over stock size in the 40 to 50 range seems right for the CV's. A fat main will cause a similar "wall" effect but generally at wider throttle openings . Does it get better if you roll off a little from full throttle?
If the bike is otherwise tuned well and ready to re-jet, I think it's more likely the filters are clogged with oil and then I'd suspect the mains.

[1100lt]

I went down to the 165 main jets and now it will go to 5500 rpms but the ceramic is black down in the the plug but white around the very edge of the top? and the tip looks lt grey. Yes it clears right up and runs fine when i'm under 5500

[1100lt]

Kieth, I went back out to verify everything and I went 3mph 3000rpms rolled on the throttle idle to full and it pulled all the to that 5500 rpm mark and fell on it's face so then i did the same thing 3rd gear about 3000 rpm hit it wide open shut it down and checked the plugs they were a little black and at the tip they ere close to chocolate. Which was pretty good. I'm thinking before when i checked the plugs i was cruising part throttle home and the were clean arond the tip of the ceramic. Could those air correctors be my problem? Also before when the 138 mains were in there the plugs were scary clean all most white thats why I jumped up the mains fom the kitto 165 now.I know bigger mains don't correct a problem in the low and mid circuits so how would I richen up the mixture in those two areas.(part and mid throttle) This is the only time that i've had the bike and the plugs have ever resembled a chocolate color

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Kieth, I went back out to verify everything and I went 3mph 3000rpms rolled on the throttle idle to full and it pulled all the to that 5500 rpm mark and fell on it's face so then i did the same thing 3rd gear about 3000 rpm hit it wide open shut it down and checked the plugs they were a little black and at the tip they ere close to chocolate. Which was pretty good. I'm thinking before when i checked the plugs i was cruising part throttle home and the were clean arond the tip of the ceramic. Could those air correctors be my problem? Also before when the 138 mains were in there the plugs were scary clean all most white thats why I jumped up the mains fom the kitto 165 now.I know bigger mains don't correct a problem in the low and mid circuits so how would I richen up the mixture in those two areas.(part and mid throttle) This is the only time that i've had the bike and the plugs have ever resembled a chocolate color

OK. If the bike pulls at full throttle for a time before bogging at 5500, that's not the filters being oiled too much. The result would be quicker.
You made quite a jump from DJ 138 to MIKUNI 165?? Remember, DJ and Mikuni size their jets differently. A DJ 138 is nearly the same as a 130 Mikuni jet. You still haven't said what the stock mains are. Just guessing, if your stock mains are 112.5?, I'd try 155 Mikuni mains probably, or very close to that.
To richen the jet needle circuit (approx' 1/5 throttle to 3/4), you raise the jet needles. Your current position (4) has worked for many 1100's with your mods, but you must test at solid 1/3 throttle to determine if a change is needed. I know the 5500 rpm problem is there but you can probably get a good enough read after running it in top gear at that rpm. You can also try the 155 mains and see if that stops the 5500 limit.
As for the pilot circuit, you generally go with 2.5 or 5 larger pilot jets than stock. Richer mixture screw adjustments are usually done too, about 2 to 2 1/2 turns out is typical.
I think your main jet choice is overlapping somewhat and causing the biggest problem.
As for the restrictors, I believe those a relatively newer components in the kit and it hasn't been thoroughly explained to me how they work. They seem to me to be a form of compensation for the extra air flowing in. They cancel each other out somewhat. That makes zero sense and I'd argue that with the entire DJ staff if I had to. You don't introduce more air and then cut it back down, you introduce more fuel to equal things. I think I'd remove them unless someone can tell me exactly what they do to help the jetting.
One other thing, REMOVE the 2 floatbowl vent lines and leave the ports open. Fuel starvation can result, even with CV carbs if you run pods with the lines still attached.

[1100lt]

It was actually a dj138 to a dj165 I'm gonna go back to the 3rd clip positon. We'll see what happens if nothing then i'll take the air corection plugs out. Cause right now the ceramic is black set at the 4th notch. before they were scary white at 3rd or 4th notch without the air plugs so they did help to richen it up. I have the mix screws out 2 3/4turns i believe the # on the pilot jets were 170 if I take those plugs out i'm gonna have to richen it up. What way do the # run on the pilots? By the way in the kit that came with the bike there are a set of 115 mikuni main jets that I found, also the vent lines have always been off Thanks again Dan

[KEITH KRAUSE]

It was actually a dj138 to a dj165 I'm gonna go back to the 3rd clip positon. We'll see what happens if nothing then i'll take the air corection plugs out. Cause right now the ceramic is black set at the 4th notch. before they were scary white at 3rd or 4th notch without the air plugs so they did help to richen it up. I have the mix screws out 2 3/4turns i believe the # on the pilot jets were 170 if I take those plugs out i'm gonna have to richen it up. What way do the # run on the pilots? Thanks again Dan

Still, quite a jump in mains.
If 1/3 throttle says rich plugs, then lower the jet needles accordingly.
With pilot jets, the larger the number, the larger the jet...same as the mains.

[chef1366]

On my 80 1100 (sixteen valve) I run the Dynojet stage 3. I use the 138 main. The needle 2.5 notches from the botom (.5 using shim washer).


Did you drill out the diaphragm slide?

[1100lt]

Ok I went back to the 138 and got full rpm's out of her,had clip in 4th notch pulled strong 1/4 ,1/2 and full throttle.The only difference between this set up and when I first started is I left the air correction plugs in. (I had never used them previously) Got back in the garage pulled the plugs and the ceramic is black down in the plug but right at the tip where the electrode comes out it's pure white and the strap is clean. I'm thinking I need a little bigger main jet. I left the mixture screws alone set at 2 3/4 turns out. I think i'll go to the 250 mark on the mains. When I first ran the 138 without the corrector plugs the entire plug ran clean. By the way chef I did drill that out. Thanks for the input Dan

[chef1366]

Get a set of 47.5 pilot jets. If you are still lean put the jet needle on the second notch from the bottom. Leave the main jet alone.