carb tweak, Junque yard 1150

[Fastrip]

So, it runs and starts well. The throttle responce is remarkable.
I still have an issue or 2.
When in town, just trying to roll at 30mph or so, anything higher then 3rd gear and it seems to blubber. It is crisp if the throttle is applied but it just seems rich when putzing. I tried a half turn, a half turn in that is, and the issue seems the same if not a little worse. This would lead me to assume the screws are air screws?
The jet kit suggested 3-3.5 turns on the screw. In past experiance, with mostly snowmobile carbs, that many turns on an air screw would signal time for a pilot jet change.
What do you think?
The bike has a replacement K&N in a stock air box with a Vance & Hines pipe. the jets are not marked but their bag was marked 128 (mains). There are 45 pilots. the needles were replaced and the slides drilled. I saw no numbers on the needles and didn't actually check the size to which the slides were drilled.
The engine itself is said to be a 1230.
I will try the other way with the screws. The bike seems to consume fuel at a pretty high rate. I am going to drop the needles a notch to see if I can help that any.
The bike runs just under 4000 rpm at 60mph. It has no lack for responce from there. I have never owned a bike (or anything for that matter) with such 60-80+mph pull. So, I didn't actually count teeth, I am wondering if there might have been a smaller sprocket put in the front or is just under 4 a normal range for 60mph?

[the_journeyman]

My 1150 seems to stumble when you come on throttle gently from a closed throttle, but if I grab a lot of throttle, it explodes forth with great velocity. From talking to several people about this condition, one of two things cause this.

1. Some aftermarket needles are very blunt tipped compared to stock, loosing that smooth transition from the idle/slow jets to the needle (not sure if I'm describing right)

2. The needle circuit might be rich, adjusting the needle down (clip closer to the top) might correct that issue.

JM

[Carter Turk]

Did you get a stage 1 kit or 1-3? Maybe those big slugs need some more air.

My wifes 1150 purrs in 3-4th gear at low rpms around town, but in second between 25-30 mph it sort of surges as does my Katana 1229.

Hers has pods and jet kit with stock bore.

Mine has GSXR 11 carbs, pods. bored to 1229. My setup feels worse around town especially in 2nd and 3rd around town below 35 mph.

Have you tryed pulling the choke slightly at the speed you mentioned?

[derwood]

yea, around 2200 rpm on real light throttle application I get a rich condition, minor stumble/stagger/hesitation....moving the needles a little doesn't seam to affect it nor does leaning out the idle screws. I've convinced myself that it is the taper of the carb needles is the reason so I'm living with it cause i'm tired of taking the carbs off. but I'm all for some free advice

[49er]

yea, around 2200 rpm on real light throttle application I get a rich condition, minor stumble/stagger/hesitation....moving the needles a little doesn't seam to affect it nor does leaning out the idle screws. I've convinced myself that it is the taper of the carb needles is the reason so I'm living with it cause i'm tired of taking the carbs off. but I'm all for some free advice

Has anyone experimented with different cutaways on the slides as a possible fix to this condition?

[Carter Turk]

Derwood,

With regards to the taper of the needle, I had some really blunt supposed Dynojet needles in those Gixxer carbs I bought used. I also bought a Factory Jet kit trying to solve a plug fouling problem.

The taper on the Factory needles was like a pin tip in comparison, but both blunt and pointy resulted in the same hesitation you mention.

Could that rpm and throttle opening be where the pilot circuit and needle overlap?

[Dink]

Are you absolutely certain the idle progression holes and circuit are spotlessly clean, these holes are very fine and at high risk of gumming up with little provocation, my 1150 has never displayed the behaviour you mention; mine is however entirely stock.

Dink

[Carter Turk]

Dink,

I can't say the idle progression holes are spotlessly clean. I don't even know where the idle progression holes are. Care to share a description of the location?

It could also be the trade off of running pods I guess.

Apologies for hijaking Fastrips thread, but we're sorta discussing the same issues with his bike.

[t3rmin]

Yo Carter we've got a GSer ride coming up in your area. We'd love to have you join us!

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=113745

[Dink]

Idle progression holes are in the front "throat" of the carb near the throttle butterfly, at about ten o'clock, one either side of the butterfly.
If they arent clear, it is probably the problem.

Dink

[Carter Turk]

I'll check those closely next time the carbs are off which should be soon.

Is this something I can ream with a tiny wire or simply spray with carb cleaner?

Thanks for the explanation.

[Dink]

Fine wire is excellent, a single strand out of a brass wire brush is recommended.

Dink

[Carter Turk]

Dink,

Thanks for the reples on this hijacked thread. I have one of those multiple size reaming wire kits from K&L, but I always wonder if I'm just pushing debris farther into the passage ways.

The bike runs well otherwise.

[Dink]

Once you run the wire through the ports you spray Carb cleaner up through the pilot jet from the float chamber to remove any crud, if possible also blow it out with compressed air.
BTW we have not hi-jacked this thread; just borrowed a little:-D, this should also help the original poster with his problem.
If we had "properly" hi-jacke dwe would be talking about a totally different topic.

Dink

[Carter Turk]

Dink,

Thanks for the clarification. The ream and spray I've done, but don't have access to compressed air in my little garage.

Ever been to Philip Island to watch the races?