Front brake bleeding problem Suzuki GS1000E

[NitroGS]

Hi Guys

Whilst waiting for all my carb bits to come through the post. I decided to fit Goodrich brake hoses to my front calipers. Connected the system up refillled the reservoir but unable to get any fluid flowing to the calipers. I have removed the unions at the calipers and pumped and pumped the front lever but still no joy. Has anybody got any ideas please.

[bonanzadave]

Do the Brake Bleeding search....

Heres a good one.....

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=112258&highlight=BRAKE+BLEEDING

[NitroGS]

Hi Dave

Thank you for he reply. Read the thread and it reconfirms what I have already tried. Bled the rear no problem using the thread principle. The problem is it is a dry system bleed for the front (master cylinder and lines totally empty). Any further ideas

[txironhead]

I've had good luck getting a dry system to work by using a large syringe (poor man's mityvac) and forcing the fluid into the system via the bleeder bolt. This works great on those stubborn Honda hydraulic clutches after a rebuild, btw....

Another option may be to force a vacuum using a mityvac (if you don't have one, there's a post on making your own out of a spray bottle in the tips and tricks section).

[highmileage]

To bleed the master cylinder first, remove the bolt at the banjo fitting (and don't lose the two brass washers). fill the resevoir, put your finger over the bolthole and pump. You'll soon get pressure.

Then, while you hold the lever in, put the banjo fitting (with a brass washer on either side back on and tighten the bolt. You can now use this bolt to finish bleeding the master cylinder.

Now you can bleed the rest of the system (but don't let the resevoir run dry or you will have to start all over again).

Also see the tips that BassCliff and I and others posted in the newer thread on this subject.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

What's worked for me every time is to remove the union bolt/fitting at the MC. With lots of rags to protect from fluid contact and a full reservoir, squeeze in the lever fully. Before releasing the lever, positively plug the hole with your thumb. Again, pull in the lever again as you back off your thumb a bit, careful of fluid spitting out. Again, plug the hole before releasing the lever. Doing this a few times is adequate to prime the MC without draining the reservoir. Tighten the bolt/fitting approx' 15 ft/lb. Most of the time, you can get away with re-using the crush washers and not get a leak.
The fluid should now go down to the calipers and you can easily bleed the system. Bleed the left side caliper first (as sitting on the bike) per factory procedure.
To back up a bit, many say to pour a little fluid into the new lines to help the process.
"Speedbleeders", bleed screws with a one way check valve, make bleeding easier. Russell, among others, sell them. Don't over-tighten ANY bleed screws. About 4 ft/lb is enough. Many people tighten them too much. If over-tightened, the screw tip can damage the soft inside of the caliper and the screw will leak regardless of how much you tighten further. The caliper is then ruined.
As a side note, be sure the second TINY return hole under the reservoir cup is clear. Many don't know it's there and they have problems. After removing the two Phillips screws, the cup just pops off if you gently twist and pull straight up. It has an o-ring to seal and the o-ring usually will be OK and you shouldn't have any leaks after re-assembly.

[NitroGS]

Thanks for the replies gents, Keith when you have completed the thumb and squeeze technique on the MC, do you keep the lever in and connect the MC banjo bolt

[KEITH KRAUSE]

It helps a little to keep the lever in I suppose. Not really a must. Especially if you have just two hands. You'll just stop a little more air getting back in. Air DOES get in when you remove your thumb and start re-assembling the line/fitting.
The main idea here is to purge the MC and it will start to flow under normal bleeding procedures and you can get fluid to flow and the air out.

[anikmankar]

Speed bleeders

Get the speed bleeders ...they work like a charm. The one way value helps like crazy to remove all access air.

once you fit them, open them a quarter till the fluid flows thru. keep pumping till you see no air bubbles in the tube. close the bleeder.

Just keep in mind the threads have a plastic / rubber coating, so if you keep opening and closing the bleeder, these will leak. They also sell the rubber coating seperatly. wonder why they have done it.

The one way valve is just a ball bearing on a spring. as you squeeze the lever, ball presses and the fluid flows out, on release, the ball bearing blocks inward flow.

[NitroGS]

Thank you for the help chaps, all your tips were spot on, managed the job sucessfully. Now forward and onward with the next jobs on the list. Crossed fingers the carbs, intake rubbers and dynojet kit will be here shortly.