7 wire honda r/r

[Guest]

I just recieved my honda r/r replacement part. It clearly has three yellow wires for the stator. What I'm confused about is the second connector has two red wires and two green wires. There is no indication of where these go. The part number is SH678C-13 (It's manufactured by Shindengen).

I'm assuming one of these wires is a sensor wire, but which I don't know which. Need some help here and quick, hoping to make my weekend ride.

Thanks in advance.

[Billy Ricks]

You have two hots and two grounds coming from the new R/R. One of the EE's will have to chime in on how to hook the extra set of wires up. I thought I knew once but one of the electrical types corrected me.

[smagnusen]

By the way this is for a 2001 - 2005 HONDA REGULATOR RECTIFIER CBR600 F4 HURRICANE

[Billy Ricks]

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=351468#post351468

[smagnusen]

Fantastic find Billy, thanks. I did a handful of searches and did come across that thread.

So am I to understand that I can:
-Splice the green wires together and run them to the battery ground and
-either splice the red wires together and attach them to the original positive from the wiring harness or put one to the harness and one to the battery positive with an inline fuse.

Also, just to double check, if I chose to bypass the headlight can I just tape off those leads in the the wiring harness or do they need to be reconnected somewhere (like each other)?

[Billy Ricks]

Here's another thread, probably easier to follow.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=94796&highlight=Shindengen

[smagnusen]

Perfect Billy! I'm going to get an inline fuse for the positives and connect both reds to the +battery, greens spliced and go to the -. Yellows to the stator, bypassing the headlight, and I'll tape off the headlight leads, plus the left over positive. Will let you know.

[smagnusen]

Another question. I checked this R/R out with the stator papers trouble shooting flow chart. The R/R did not pass the first two parts. In other words my cheapo diode tester did not show any changes from 1Volt. Does this mean I potentially have a bad R/R or may the test not apply to this type of R/R. Will wait a bit for reply before I go plug it in.

[smagnusen]

Alright no replies so I went ahead and spiced that sucker in on Marine Drive. I walked up to my bike in sandels and found it in about 8 inches of water. I entertained about 10 people at the bus station as I swamped myself getting my bike out of the water.

Anyway, I put the reds together and put them to the bat. positive (inline fuse) and the greens together and put them to negative and I bypassed the red pos from the wiring harness as well as the headlight dump (I just taped them off). The bike did not want to start at all until I did a boost from my car and then it took. Bike started. Eureka.

So then it was time to whip out my trusty cheapo multimeter. The battery read between 12 and 13 at idle and under 15 with the throttle throttled. Good.

Then I measured the stator leads. This is where I need feedback. I had somewhere between 10 and 11 volts between each lead.

Two leads went up a volt or two went I rolled the throttle up to 4-5K (mind you, this in under load, not unharnessed).

The third combination actually went down under throttle. To about 9 point something volts.

Is this behavior normal? I'm thinking (optimistically) that only two legs are used (read somewhere) and the third leg might be shunting more and hence the reduced voltage.

Or.... Am I screwed up somewhere. Is this unhealthy numbers, bad R/R, bad stator leg? I'd like to ride it tommorow but don't want to fry something (the stator). Thanks!

[Billy Ricks]

This may sound like a dumb question, but are you measuring AC volts or DC at the stator? I assume AC since you seem to know what you're doing. The test is to be done with the stator disconnected from the main harness. I'm not sure if leaving the stator connected would change your voltage readings, but the manual does call for it to be disconnected.

[smagnusen]

I like the way you think Billy. I am, according to my multimeter, measuring ac volts. I did not, however, take a reading from the stator disconnected from the R/R.

[smagnusen]

Anyone want to take a shot? Couple posts up. With the stator under load, is it normal for the voltage to drop as rpms go up on one of the stator combos?

[Nessism]

I can't offer any comment about voltage on any given leg of the stator, but it seems to me that as long as the DC voltage to the battery is in the approprite range you are good to go.

[bakalorz]

Anyone want to take a shot? Couple posts up. With the stator under load, is it normal for the voltage to drop as rpms go up on one of the stator combos?

I wouldn't worry too much about the voltage dropping as rpms go up on one of the stator combos.

Testing the voltage of individual pairs under load doesn't really tell you much. Especially using a Voltmeter, since (inexpensive ones at least) are really only accurate on sine waves, and the loaded stator voltage is anything but a sine.

If anything, do the disconnected unloaded test.

But if it is charging ok, it is probably ok.

OTOH, I find it curious that your replacement regulator failed the diode test.
AFAIK, all the regulator/rectifiers have to be able to pass that in order to be working correctly

[smagnusen]

Update: The new R/R seems and the charging system as a whole seem to be working fine. \\/ This R/R severely failed the stator paper's R/R test (as posted above), which I think is notable. Thanks again everyone for the big helping hand.