An issue I haven't run in to before.

[Dark Jedi]

When starting the bike, it cranks real slow like a dead battery. However, it does so with a fully charged battery, while hooked to the charger, or even on the new battery. (I knew better, but blew $40 to prove it to myself.)

So, where to start? Loose ground?

82 GS1100E.

[Nessism]

Poor electrical contact at starter solenoid? Or starter motor brushes worn/dirty?

[Dark Jedi]

Reading search results (RTFM before I post? And break tradition??) and seeing some great suggestions in past issues like this. All suggestions welcome, I am tearing in to it with gusto tomorrow or Thursday.

[nert]

If while cranking the battery volts stay high, near 12, than you have poor connection, high resistance, bad brushes (in starter), wiring, etc. If while cranking, battery volts drop below 10, then you have a bad starter. OR, The other possible consideration, is for some reason the engine is very difficult to turn over, like (seize, still in gear, mechanical jam, hydrostatic lock, etc. That too will drag battery voltage low as the starter has to work very hard and requires lots of battery power.

[focus frenzy]

you need to do a voltage drop test.
to do it you need three to four hands so you will need to recruit a helper.

take your multi meter test leads and put the + one to the battery + post bolt and the - probe goes to the starter + post. sitting still you will get battery voltage but you have helper crank the engine over (or hold test probes) and look at what the meter shows when cranking.
0 volts would be perfect but ain't going to happen. you want as low a number as possible .5 volts drop would be fine.

you can then put the +probe to the output from the starter solenoid and the - probe to the starter post and see what the drop is across the starter cable.

next + on the battery side of the solenoid and the - on the starter side of the solenoid.
last is + to battery + and - to battery side of starter solenoid.

also put the +probe to the ground cable at the engine case and the - probe to the battery ground, to test voltage drop across the ground cable. you need to crank the engine over on each of these test.

this will allow you to find weak spots in the main cables and solenoid.

another item is the battery, what kind is it? I have found the cheep third world batteries they sell at most auto parts places and wally world have to much internal resistance and don't give up enough cranking power.

[babcockdonald]

Check the resistance in your cables. If you have a cable that is going bad (or has gone bad) the resistance will be high. High resistance equals a greater then average voltage drop across the line. If the line is causing excess voltage drop do to high ohms then there will be less voltage getting to the starter.

Also check your ground connection with your multimeter. If you have a high ohms ground connection then your electrical parts wont work properly.

[Planecrazy]

Sounds like bad brushes, but always better to go through the testing procedures already mentioned to verify it. On my bike I had a slow cranker from the get-go, but after rebuilding the starter (for under $50) the bike starts great!

Good Luck!

[hikermikem]

Just wondering if your cam chain tensioner is locked, not allowing the cam chain to rotate freely?

Just a "out-of-box" thought.

What happens when you start the bike using jumper cables from a non-running car battery?? Does it still start slow?

[Dark Jedi]

Just wondering if your cam chain tensioner is locked, not allowing the cam chain to rotate freely?

Just a "out-of-box" thought.

What happens when you start the bike using jumper cables from a non-running car battery?? Does it still start slow?

Starting it with the jumper boost from my charger changes nothing. I will try a battery today.

[bakalorz]

Starting it with the jumper boost from my charger changes nothing. I will try a battery today.

I wouldn't start it with the jumper boost from your charger.

The OEM rectifier/regulator is apparently liable to be damaged by getting a jump start from a running car, because it boosts the voltage too high which damages internal components of the R/R.

A boost jumper may do the same. Or it may not.

Do you feel lucky today ...

[Dark Jedi]

It appears to have been corrosion on the positive lead off the battery, where it hooks in to the doohickey (can't remember it's name). Cleaned up, starts like a champ now!

[hikermikem]

Always nice when it's something simple.

[Dark Jedi]

Hmm, not the end of it. Same issue this morning. Gonna trace all the main leads all the way out this evening. I'll let y'all know what I find.

[nert]

Electrical problems are not usually "visual".
Embellishment on my earlier post. Connect the volt meter to the hard lugs of the battery. Not the screw head, nut, or wire.

If while cranking the battery volts stay high, near 12, than you have poor connection, high resistance, bad brushes (in starter), wiring, etc. (the battery "juice" can't get to the starter)

If while cranking, battery volts drop below 10, then you have a bad battery or starter. OR, The other possible consideration to cause great amperage draw that drops a good battery volts low, is for some reason the engine is very difficult to turn over, like (seize, still in gear, mechanical jam, hydrostatic lock, etc. ( battery "juice" getting to starter, but TOO much is needed.) The starter has to work very hard and requires lots of battery power.

Perform the test as described and tell us what you find

nert

[Dark Jedi]

Electrical problems are not usually "visual".
Embellishment on my earlier post. Connect the volt meter to the hard lugs of the battery. Not the screw head, nut, or wire.

If while cranking the battery volts stay high, near 12, than you have poor connection, high resistance, bad brushes (in starter), wiring, etc. (the battery "juice" can't get to the starter)

If while cranking, battery volts drop below 10, then you have a bad battery or starter. OR, The other possible consideration to cause great amperage draw that drops a good battery volts low, is for some reason the engine is very difficult to turn over, like (seize, still in gear, mechanical jam, hydrostatic lock, etc. ( battery "juice" getting to starter, but TOO much is needed.) The starter has to work very hard and requires lots of battery power.

Perform the test as described and tell us what you find

nert

When the issue is happening, voltage drops to 9.5-10 across the battery. Voltage across the ground to case drops .4 during cranking. From pos to the doohickey, it dropped 4.9 until I cleaned the contact, then it dropped .5. This, I thought, was the issue, but the issue returned.
Checking the pos to the starter in the morning.