Took apart the Carbs/Now I have Q's

[buster]

So I broke down and took apart the carbs just to see how bad they really where and man for a bike that would run with the choke open they were much worse than I had expected. I did run into a problem with one of the "Air Screws" wich I had to drill and easy out (or not so easy out) took my time and didn't damage the carb so now I just need a replacement. Every thing is currently soaking and I will put it back together before the weekend (hopefully) but here are some questions.

1982 GS1100E (stock carbs, boxes, and exhaust)

I checked two of the "Air Screws" and they were about 2 1/4 turns out
Is this a normal setting I am used to about 1 1/2 turns out and this seems extreme. I look in the sticky post about carb setting and the only bike close to mine that I see is the 83 1100ED (Canadian) at 2 1/2 turns. So does anyone know for sure what it should approx. be for a good starting point?

I also read another post that talks about 8 screw setting to know or 2 sets of 4 if I understand correctly, however after removing everything from the carbs the only pieces that were removed that weren't bottomed out were the "Air Screws". Everything else was tight. The thread talked about "Fuel Screws" needing to be set. I looked over the "Carburetor Clean & Repair Pictorial" pdf that is on the site and cannot find a reference to the "Fuel Screws". What am I missing?

Here is a list of what was removed and you will notice I am using quotes because I have noticed different names for some of the parts and I am using the names that were used in the Pictorial.
"Needle Valve & Seat"
"Pilot Jet & Plug"
"Main Jet & Washer"
"Needle Jet"
"Throttle Valve (Slide) & CV "boot""
"Air Screw, Spring, Washer, O-Ring"
"Air Jet"

So what did I miss? The only thing that I can think of is that the "Pilot Jet" that was under the black plug is the "Fuel Screw" that is being refered too, but I am pretty sure it was tight also.

Any help would be great!

[Steve]

I checked two of the "Air Screws" and they were about 2 1/4 turns out. Is this a normal setting I am used to about 1 1/2 turns out and this seems extreme. I look in the sticky post about carb setting and the only bike close to mine that I see is the 83 1100ED (Canadian) at 2 1/2 turns. So does anyone know for sure what it should approx. be for a good starting point?

The Candian bikes were blessed with more proper carburetion than our US-spec bikes. 2 to 2 1/2 turns is a good starting point.

I also read another post that talks about 8 screw setting to know or 2 sets of 4

That would be for the earlier VM series carbs found on '79 and older GS bikes.
Yours has the Mikuni BS series carbs which are constant-velocity carbs, sometimes just called CV carbs.

... however after removing everything from the carbs the only pieces that were removed that weren't bottomed out were the "Air Screws". Everything else was tight.

Nice to know that everything was snugged down properly. The "air screws" you mention are actually "fuel mixture screws" on you carbs. These are the ones that should be set about 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.

The thread talked about "Fuel Screws" needing to be set. I looked over the "Carburetor Clean & Repair Pictorial" pdf that is on the site and cannot find a reference to the "Fuel Screws". What am I missing?

Only the terminology. The "fuel screws" are the "fuel mixture screws" found on the top of the outlet of the carbs.

Here is a list of what was removed and you will notice I am using quotes because I have noticed different names for some of the parts and I am using the names that were used in the Pictorial.
"Needle Valve & Seat"
"Pilot Jet & Plug"
"Main Jet & Washer"
"Needle Jet"
"Throttle Valve (Slide) & CV "boot""
"Air Screw, Spring, Washer, O-Ring"
"Air Jet"

List looks almost complete. Did you remove the enrichener assembly (choke) from the upper left side of the carb?

So what did I miss? The only thing that I can think of is that the "Pilot Jet" that was under the black plug is the "Fuel Screw" that is being refered too, but I am pretty sure it was tight also.

No, the "pilot jet" is under the black plug. See the above responses to the location of the "fuel screw".

With the possible exception of not removing the choke assembly, sounds like you did a good job. Let each carb (with all the metal parts that go in it) soak overnight in the "dip". Next night, remove those parts, rinse them off, dry them, use a strand of copper wire to poke through all the holes in all the jets and the carb body. Use carb cleaner spray to flush the passages, then use compressed air to make sure they are clear. make sure to wear your safety glasses, as some of these passages come right back at you. Now you are ready to dip the next carb and its parts overnight. Repeat as necessary.

When you are done, assemble the carb rack, do a bench sync before installing the carbs in the bike. It makes starting it to do the dynamic sync much easier.


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[mmarshall13098]

if it's the screws on top of the carbs, that's commonly called the "air/fuel mixture screws"...1-1/2 turns out is just a starting point...all depends on engine mods, air box or not, etc. if it's stock, that should be ok to start...get the bike running...make a few good runs and then check your spark plug color...correct fuel burning should leave a brownish color on the plugs- lighter or white means lean-darker means rich..if you need to go leaner..turn the screws out ...need to go richer..turn them in..do this in 1/4 increments. the pilot jets basically control idle so make sure that they are clean...you should be able to see light through them

[buster]

O.k. sounds like I am on the right track at least.

"Bench Sync" this is a term that I have read around here a few times. I am familiar with putting the carbs on the bike and using a Sync tool, however how do you "Bench Sync" a set of carbs? Is there a post somewhere that describes this process?

[buster]

I just read several post that answered my question, one with a link that had pictures! I love pictures.

Thanks for all the help.