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    #16
    this thread

    has cheered me up ..


    A LOT!


    THANX

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      #17
      Spread that oil on the OUTSIDE of the tires......Now THAT will reduce the friction just in exactly the manner that'll impress you (and everyone else) as to your riding ability (and after just a short trip.....the actual fuel consumption will likely abruptly go down....way down).

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        #18
        Originally posted by Pharkmeh View Post
        while your at it you should change the Halogen Fluid in ur light bulbs -they run low if u do a lot of night riding .....8-[

        I love how that bike looks like it's got one eyebrow raised, very Spock-like....

        And I'll have you guys know that you're giving seriously dangerous advice here......only ultra-lightweigh synthetic positive-ion nitrogen-enhanced oil should be used in the tires. For longer life, also use double-distilled air, not the cheap single-distilled previously mentioned. Triple-refined butane, cooled to a minimum of 40 degrees F, can be used if double distilled O2 is unavailable, but make sure to replace the agitator inlet with the appropriate adaptor.

        And for the record, I only use the finest quality carnuba wax on the exterior of my tires. Oil picks up too much debris.\\/

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          #19
          Originally posted by SPARKSS View Post
          Spread that oil on the OUTSIDE of the tires......Now THAT will reduce the friction just in exactly the manner that'll impress you (and everyone else) as to your riding ability (and after just a short trip.....the actual fuel consumption will likely abruptly go down....way down).
          So I'm standing in the driveway with a 5-gal jug of 10w40 and a funnel trying to find the right port...

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            #20
            Seriously now, back to the question. It all depends on your riding style. I use 5-20 in the severe cold but switch to 20-50 in the severe heat.

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              #21
              In addition to changing the halogen fluid in our light bulbs, as Pharkmeh suggested, we should change the air in our crankcases.

              Drain any remaining oily substance from your crankcase, funnel this slick stuff into your tires. Then change the air in the crankcase and let it run for a few minutes. You can use an air compressor to speed up the process. Start the engine, run it hard for 15 to 20 minutes, or as long as it needs to be run.

              As soon as the engine stops, then begin your conversion to fuel injection, or, better yet, a hydraulic clutch. The GS will run real good then!
              Last edited by Guest; 09-23-2007, 07:24 AM.

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                #22
                That reminds me. It's Sunday. Time to change my shorts.
                And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post
                  That reminds me. It's Sunday. Time to change my shorts.
                  You may as well, while you're at it, also change the air in your underwear.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Grandpa View Post
                    You may as well, while you're at it, also change the air in your underwear.

                    I do that several times a day....

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                      #25
                      After reading this thread I have to go and change the air between my ears. :shock:
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        After reading this thread I have to go and change the air between my ears. :shock:
                        Remember to ONLY use double-distilled air!

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                          #27
                          Ah this thread... I damn near p!ssed myself from laughing

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                            #28
                            A romantic glow?

                            What if the only air I can find is 'reverse osmosis' and not 'double distilled'? Will that work? Also, I accidentally spilled some halogen fluid into my tire oil. Now my tires give off this phosphorescent glow at night. It's actually kind of cool looking. But will it affect the handling?

                            I really appreciate all the expertise here. You guys are great! :-D

                            Thank you for your indulgence,

                            BassCliff

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                              #29
                              wow - you guyz have it all - special tyre oil changing ramps and everything ffs :shock:


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                                #30
                                Reverse osmosis is fine, it's a little higher viscosity so expect a slight bit of sluggishness on cold mornings. If this is a problem, adding a small amount of 93 octane helium might help.

                                The halogen fluid won't harm the tires, but don't get any on the paint or you might end up giving yourself night blindness. There have been some people reporting that putting it on the chrome and aluminum parts increases the shine, but that's a load of crap. It'll look good at first but you'll end up with serious pitting in the long run, and do you have any idea how hard it is to get halogen fluid out of a tiny pit?

                                Oh, BTW, does anyone know the correct antifreeze to use in the gauges? Winter's coming up and I don't want my speedometer freezing up on me.

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