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    Hydraulic brake switch problem?

    After four months of downtime, and with the help of this board, I finally got my '80 1100 back up and running.

    In that time I replace the headlight bucket and gauge cluster with a chrome 7" round light and Acewell / Electrosport ACE-2853 digital gauge, added a Stebel Nautilus Compact Air Horn, and put an auxiilary junction box on the front of the frame (since the new headlight had a lot less space and I needed to add three relays).

    She wasn't running very well, but I think I fixed that by replacing the needle seat o-rings and setting the correct float heights. I need to put another 100 or so miles to see if the mileage is back to where it should be (50+ MPG, instead of 35). There is still a lingering "popcorning" issue under load ... but that will probably have to wait until winter.

    Anyway, after getting her running all nice, she fails inspection.

    The issue is that engaging the front brake does not reliably light the brake light. Most of the time, it works fine ... you pull back on the the handle and the light comes on just as the brakes start to engage. Every once in a while (once in 9 or 10 tries), the light does not come on, although the brakes do engage. You have to either pull back really hard or release and pull again to get the rear light to illuminate.

    About 2 and a half years ago, I replaced the contact in the brake handle with a hydraulic pressure switch. Is it possible that these switches can fail in this manner? Is it the likely thing to replace first?

    Note that I will be replacing my brake lines in the next few months, but I figure that can't be the problem because if the line has enough pressure to push the caliper, it should also be enough to activate the switch.

    Thanks,
    - Tony

    #2
    Originally posted by demark View Post
    About 2 and a half years ago, I replaced the contact in the brake handle with a hydraulic pressure switch. Is it possible that these switches can fail in this manner? Is it the likely thing to replace first?
    - Tony
    Yes, a switch can fail in this manner. It can also have a little air trapped in it. The having to pull it hard or repeatedly would indicate to me that there's air in it, but I wouldn't completely write-off the bad switch possibility.

    Bleed them first and then replace the switch.

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      #3
      I thought about air in the line... I had bled the lines (and the bolt). No change.

      I even moved the switch from the fitting on the front fork to the feed off the master cylinder. Same issue.

      I am wondering if I should go back to the original mechanical switch configuration - that lasted 22k miles. The hydraulic switch made it a little over 3k. Both options are about $20.

      Thanks,
      - Tony

      Comment


        #4
        Take the switch out & spray some brake cleaner into it

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