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carb rebuild warnings ???

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    carb rebuild warnings ???

    Hello CV carb gurus...... I'm getting ready to clean/rebuild my '80 GS1000G CV carbs. I've viewed the (excellent) GS Forum carb rebuild item as well as read service manual carb clean chapters.......so here's my question.
    In the service manual there are DIRE warnings about removing the air pilot screws. It says these screws are factory adjusted using specialized equipment etc etc.....and if you alter these settings then you may as well shoot yourself!! Do these warnings apply to CV carbs?? I'm planning on marking all adjustable screws and re-install them back to their original positions. This should at least get the bike running again so the dealer can balance and adjust them.
    So...once again.....do the air screw warnings apply to CV carbs?
    cheers and thanks for all comments

    #2
    The pilot screws are adjusted to meet emission regulations, not to optimize running. Standard procedure is to remove the caps over the screws and adjust them with the engine running to achieve the highest idle speed, which coincides with the best mixture setting.

    Edit: When I first rebuilt my '81 550 I set the pilot screws to 2 turns which is where they were from new. Short story is that the bike did not run right (possibly due to changes in gas over the years, and here in California) until I set the screws to 3 turns. The idle speed increased noticeably between 2 turns and 3 which is the key thing to look for when adjusting the screws. Start at 2 or so and turn slowly outward and stop when the highest idle is achieved - at some point, more turns will not cause a change.
    Last edited by Nessism; 09-30-2007, 10:39 AM.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Save yourself some possible grief. After you remove the caps, slowly turn the screws down to a soft stop and count the turns or portions thereof. This will give you your base line if you need to return to the factory setting.

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        #4
        You need to remove those to replace the o-rings
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          Also, save yourself a lot of money and grief and forget taking it to the dealership. Most dealerships won't even touch a bike that old.

          Get yourself some carb synchronizers (also called manometers, carb synchs, carb sticks, vacuum gauges, vacuum synchronizers, etc.) for $40-60 and balance them yourself. It'll be cheaper than what they'll charge you at nearly any shop or dealership, and then you'll have a tool you can use on any carbureted bike you own now or later. You'll need one with 4mm adapters I think. A carb synch "wrench" will make things easier, those can be found for around $12. It's basically a long screwdriver with a socket around the head for adjusting the carbs while you're synchronizing them.

          Definitely replace the o-rings and the intake boot o-rings, it'll save a lot of grief down the road.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by txironhead View Post
            You'll need one with 4mm adapters I think.
            Actually, you need 5mm adapters, but what's one millimeter among friends? 8-[


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              #7
              So the GS1000 uses 5mm? I was told my GS750E uses 4mm, but I haven't reached that point yet so I'm not sure.

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