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'82 GS1100GK carb question

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    '82 GS1100GK carb question

    I am having a very frustrating, intermittent problem with my GK. I'm hoping it's something simple, if I just knew what to look at.

    I bought the bike in May. Previous owner claimed carbs, valve adjustment, etc were recently set to specs and bike was ready to go (of course). I ride it to work daily - 35 miles one way, mostly interstate - and it mostly runs fine. However, about 2 months ago I pulled off the interstate and when it idled down, it suddenly just dropped a cylinder. I nursed it the 10 miles home and the dropped cylinder would cut in and out trying to fire. It reminded me of a 2-stroke fouling a plug. When I got home, I parked the bike on the side stand and gasoline ran out of the air box. I dried out the air filter, which was saturated with gas, replaced the plugs, which were badly fouled, fired it up and it ran fine - until 2 days ago when it did the same thing on the way home. It's been sitting in the garage until this morning - I went out, choked it and fired it right up. All seemed fine for about 1 minute as it was warming up, then it dropped a cylinder and I started smelling gas. After a couple minutes I shut it off and gas ran out of the air box.

    Any suggestions?

    #2
    Most likely cause would be something stuck in one (or more) of the float valves.

    Remove the petcock assembly and inspect the filter screen to make sure it is still intact.

    Remove the carbs, pull the float bowls and floats so you can inspect the float valves.
    If the tips of the valves have a groove around them, they need to be replaced.

    If there is no groove, check the condition of the fuel hose.
    If it is old, it might be flaking internally, causing intermittent pieces to get stuck in the float valves, causing your problem.


    .
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      #3
      Check the spark plug caps. Make sure they are screwed into good wire.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        flecks of hose should not stick the float needle if the carbs were done correctly as there are screens on top of the needle seats to prevent that.

        also check the petcock vacume line for signs of gas, unlikly because it will run into the engine not out through the carbs normaly.

        gunk film build up will make the float needles stick, also possible one of the seat O-rings has split, always good to replace them while you are in there checking things.

        Comment


          #5
          When you park the bike, do you use the center stand or the side stand? It sounds like the floats are set to the top of their spec and that when you lean the bike over on the side stand, #'s 3 and 4 are draining fuel into the air box side. I had the same issue when I first got mine up and running. The cure...use the center stand. Just out of curiosity, which cylinder are you having problems with it dropping. If the answer is #2, you may have a petcock issue as well.

          Comment


            #6
            The problem is, as Steve stated, the float needles in the carb(s) are not sealing. Causes for this are typically contamination keeping the needle from seating, heavy floats, worn out needles/seats, etc. The carbs are overflowing which typically fills the crankcase and/or the airbox with gas - the gas is running out when the bike is tilted and put on the side stand, and keeping the bike upright is not the answer here. I strongly suggest you check your oil level and if it's high, there is a very good chance that you have gas in your oil.

            Pull the carbs and have a good look at the needles/seats. Replace as necessary. Also, take a look in the tank for rust - particles foul the float needles and the sticking float will quickly return unless your fix the source of the problem.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              Thanks for the responses. I've been away from the board for a few days. It would seem there's no way around pulling the carbs. In the past I've always had someone around to do carb work for me, but don't any more. It looks like I'm gonna have to dive in ....

              Comment


                #8
                Hi Tal, Just so you don't feel alone, I also have a GKZ that needs carb rebuilding. I've also never done motorcycle carbs. I did rebuild a carb on a '66 Malubu once, with help, and this looks simpler. I got the o-rings and I am now building up the courage to get started. I think the hardest part will be cleaning up my shed to find a work space where they don't get messed with. Just gotta get the first one done then, should be easier...right? Good Luck.

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