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82 gs 750t..very hard to start

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    82 gs 750t..very hard to start

    I have put in a new battery (fully charged)
    installed 4 new plugs.
    added new NGK wires and NGK connectors to the coils.with new NGK caps.
    fresh gas with a third of a can of Seafoam (great stuff buy the way).
    on my hondas you dont have to pull in the clutch to start.i found out you do on these Suzuki's.
    do i need to have the side stand up,bike in neutral as well?
    i managed to start it last week after about 10 mins.without the new wires and such.but the starter was taking a beating.and the wires from the starter button were getting hot.it did start but died after i released the choke.i thought i would give it a rest as i didnt want to burn anything out.
    after installing the new stuff yesterday i tried starting it for a few cranks but no go.it is trying though.
    any ideas?

    #2
    Are you priming the float bowls? Is your choke operational? Is the brass choke jet clean?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Depending on how long it has been since the bike has run, here is the starting drill:

      If less than a few days since last run:
      Insert ignition key
      Apply something between half- and full-choke
      Squeeze clutch lever
      Turn ignition key to ON
      Press starter button, do NOT use throttle
      Release clutch after assuring bike is in neutral
      Moderate engine speed by reducing amount of choke

      If it has been more than a few days since bike was last run, you might have to do this:
      Move petcock to PRI, wait 10 seconds
      Do all the same steps in the first part
      Don't forget to return petcock to ON position after bike is running.

      The position of the sidestand is irrelevant.
      The bike does not have to be in neutral.
      The clutch lever does have to be squeezed (unless that feature has been disabled)
      Unlike your Hondas, the engine will run with the sidestand down. :shock:

      Does the bike start better after it has warmed up? If so, you need to adjust your valves.
      Tight valves will cause very hard cold starting, and, if ignored long enough, will cause NO starting due to burned valves.


      .
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        #4
        other than getting it started last week for a few seconds,it hasnt run in well over a year.
        the old plugs that i pulled yesterday were fouled (all four).very black.
        i will save the valves for the manual i ordered.as i understand they are shimed.also i will have to check the timing.if it will start.i might try a static test (need to make up a light with clips).
        also the carbs are a little differant than the KEI HINS im used to. i cant wait for this manual to arrive so i can start picking this bike apart properly.as i want to ride it ever so badly:-D
        after adjusting the valves am i going to need a new gasket?

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          Are you priming the float bowls? Is your choke operational? Is the brass choke jet clean?
          priming the carbs.i assume you mean via the PRI on the tank.if so then yes.
          choke seems good.
          as for the brass choke jet.well your guess is good as mine.:?i wouldnt know where to start looking for said itemwhen i use the choke the bar on the carbs does move freely side to side.
          i just bought this bike from someone two weeks ago.i have never owned a suzuki much less worked on one.i know this is a suzuki site.but a honda cb is much easier to work on.especially the valves.but once i get used to this bike i'm sure things will move along nicely.
          Last edited by Guest; 10-07-2007, 11:16 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            The choke jet is the brass tube in the float bowls. This is where the gas is drawn for choke. You'll almost never get these babys to start if they are obstructed without starting fluid. (Which is a bad idea)
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              i'll drain the bowls and have a look.
              Thanks

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