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    Snapped Bolt

    Just before the Fennimore ride, my 850L developed a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets. The more I rode, the worse it got, so last night I started on the task of taking the exhaust apart so I can replace the gaskets. So far the score is 5 bolts out :-D, 1 bolt snapped , 2 bolts stuck. I'm currently applying generous quantities of PB to the 2.5 bolts that remain, and will apply heat as well to try to get them to loosen up.

    I'm now trying to decide whether to get an extractor to try to remove the snapped bolt, or whether I should bite the bullet and take the bike into a shop to have the broken bolt removed. What do you think?

    #2
    It depends on your situation. I have the same problem. Previose owner
    snapped off a bolt halfway down, replaced it with a stud which he
    JB welded. So I am drilling it out. Of course its one of the middle ones.
    I tried an easy out but could not keep ahold of the easy out when it
    caught. If you have a good garage, tools, and plenty of time, do it
    yourself and learn something, otherwise.....

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by dwvoss View Post
      Just before the Fennimore ride, my 850L developed a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets. The more I rode, the worse it got, so last night I started on the task of taking the exhaust apart so I can replace the gaskets. So far the score is 5 bolts out :-D, 1 bolt snapped , 2 bolts stuck. I'm currently applying generous quantities of PB to the 2.5 bolts that remain, and will apply heat as well to try to get them to loosen up.

      I'm now trying to decide whether to get an extractor to try to remove the snapped bolt, or whether I should bite the bullet and take the bike into a shop to have the broken bolt removed. What do you think?
      So, that was why it was going "pop,pop,pop..." all the time. The only way to do it right (ugh!!!!) is to pull the head, take it to a shop (or do it yourself if you have a drill press), center drill the broken off bolt(s) then very carefully easi-out them (lots of PB Blaster). I have done it with a hand held power drill, but it's difficult. I've also drilled them out to the point where I could crush the offending bolt with a small screwdriver or metal scribe and removed them, but it's very difficult to do with the head on the bike. Just thank God it's October, and you've already done Fennimore........:-D

      Comment


        #4
        You could of course try it yourself and maybe experience a 10% chance of success, or take some good advice and take the bike into a shop to get it removed. But from my experience with most of the new "wrenchers" to this site they would rather try to remove it and mess it up royally before breaking down and taking it to a shop. But, we learn by touching the stove to learn it is hot.


        Take it to a shop.

        Comment


          #5
          Drilling out the bolt works, but if you are not careful you can mess up the head. If you decide to do it yourself start with a small drill bit and try to hit the dead center. Move up the bit sizes until you can clean up the hole with a tap. I've had nothing but bad experiences with easy outs so I'd recommend against those.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #6
            Use anti-seize on the bolts if and when you put the exhaust back on.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              Easy out's work great if your dealing with a bolt that snapped because you over tight. The balance of the bolt should spin easy.If the bolt snapped becuase of rust or other factors, don't try the easy out.

              Comment


                #8
                How much of the bolt has snapped? Pictures please.

                If you have enough of the bolt left sticking out of the cylinder head place a flat washer over the bolt and against the head and weld the washer to the bolt. Then add a nut. As you weld the heat will loosen the bolt in the head and you can then undo the offedning broken bolt.

                If its snapped flush or down the thread hole its a centre punch and drill out. Make sure that you do not snap off a drill while doing it!!!
                Once its out you can chase the thread out with a 'tap' or have the hole helicoiled if you have missed by a little.

                If you used an 'easy out' be prepaired for it to snap and then you have lots of work stripping and getting the broken 'easy out' and bolt removed from the head by spark erosion method.

                Suzuki mad.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Easy-outs are evil.
                  1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                  2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                  2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                  Eat more venison.

                  Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                  Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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                  Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                    Easy-outs are evil.
                    I'm in FULL AGREEMENT with that - easy-outs are a great way to make a small problem a BIG problem.

                    Bring it to a shop & get it fixed right, repeat the following, "must use anti-seize..."

                    Good luck
                    '85 GS550L - SOLD
                    '85 GS550E - SOLD
                    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                    '81 GS750L - SOLD
                    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hikermikem View Post

                      Bring it to a shop & get it fixed right, repeat the following, "must use anti-seize..."

                      Good luck

                      I for one NEVER take my bike to the shop...EVER, because I want it fixed right!
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Since no one has mentioned it yet - is the bolt borken off flush, sticking out, down in the head, what? If it's still sticking out then do the PB/heat routine a few times and then use a small pipe wrench on the piece you can get to. It will bite much better than a vise-grip and bites harder the harder you force it.

                        If it's flush or down in the threads it is time for professional help, but I would think that a decent machine shop is a much better choice than the chimps at your local dealer. I am with Nessism, my bikes NEVER see the inside of a shop again after I take them home. Too many horror stories and bad experiences of friends to let me ever do that with a clear conscience...

                        Mark

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Go to the local bar where the local machinists hang and make some friends. :-D
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                            I for one NEVER take my bike to the shop...EVER, because I want it fixed right!
                            I was referring to a machine shop, not a bike shop.

                            I don't have a lot of confidence in any place that measures its output by the number of jobs "completed," rather than how well they were done (e.g., most bike shops).
                            '85 GS550L - SOLD
                            '85 GS550E - SOLD
                            '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                            '81 GS750L - SOLD
                            '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                            '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                            '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                            '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The bolt is snapped off flush. I think based on the advice here, I'll be visiting my local machine shop. Thanks!

                              Comment

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