Snapped Bolt

[duaneage]

When you think about it, if the head rung right off with a full bolt under it, how can an easy out manage to break it loose?

If you get them out use studs and nuts instead of bolts. This was a mistake for Suzuki to use bolts, other makers used studs instead.

[Greg O.]

Suzuki mad has the right idea. I have done this many times without using the washer. But the washer is a good idea if you have enough room for the nut. Sometimes the nun may twist off, and you will have to weld another nut back on. I put the nut on then fill the center of the nut with weld. Like heat helps to loosten the bolt. Let it cool a bit before you try to turn the nut, at least till the red has gone out.

Greg O.

[shotblaster]

broken bolts-exhaust

Not fun or good. I once bought a 1985 gs1150es that was "nice" except for the rusty v&h header. All 8 bolts broke off flush with the head!! The way these are removed is with an EDM type machine made for vaporizing broken bolts and taps. The head must be removed. I had a shop with one, it looked like a drill press, but high voltage fed thru what would be the drill bit. Very old and cool machine. The best part was the threads emerged in perfect shape! I am in Wisconsin, and idiots go riding with salt on the roads, and the salt spray locks the bolts in forever.

[themess]

One of the best tricks that I've learned is to tighten the bolt by about an eighth turn before trying to loosen it. And if it is at all tight, loosen it by 20 degrees, then tighten it by 10 degrees. Work in as much penetrating oil as possible.

I dread the day that I have to remove my exhaust header bolts. The PO screwed up so much simple stuff that I assume that the exhaust will be a royal PITA.

[dwvoss]

The head must be removed...

I made a brief visit to my local machine shop yesterday, and got the same type of advice, that they would want the engine out of the bike frame. I've started back through my manuals, and one states that the cylinder head can be removed with the engine still in the frame. This is the approach that I plan to take. Any tips or tricks associated with this process would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[80-81, GS 1100]

If I end up takeing off the head for my broken bolt, I am going to do
a compression test first. Thats a lot of time to spend and not get a
valve job unless the compression is almost like a new engine. But my
GS's are probably much more ragged out than yours.

[chef1366]

While you're in there check the valves, guides, seats and replace the valve stem seals.
Click here

[Clone]

You don't need to take off the head, if you take the whole bike to a machine shop they can work on it complete. If the machinist says he can't he is not someone you want to do the job. I dropped an entire 3.9L on the machine table at a machine shop and picked it up an hour later after having three studs removed and the holes retapped one size up.