Mr Keith Krause Please help!!

[TheCafeKid]

OK. First of all, you're not a pain. So if my reply sounded "blunt" or something, disregard that.
It's just me trying to say you must do the basics first. Clean and INSPECTED carbs are one of those basics. You really do have to pay close attention to truly get the carbs cleaned. I use at least 100 psi to blow out all passages after cleaning with cleaner.
If richening the fuel screws underneath helps at a certain throttle position, then it means you're lean at that throttle position, even if you think otherwise.
Also, be sure to install new manifold o-rings. They're cheap and are critical to performance. Inspect the manifolds too for hardening/cracking.
Now as for your last post, you said "the plate and washer are missing from the slide assembly". If you mean the thin brass plate that goes under the throttle arm base and the washer you mention is one of the two jet needle plastic washers, then yes, you have to replace those for the carbs to operate correctly. There are actually two plastic spacers/washers used with the VM carbs jet needles. The thicker spacer, actually called a ring, goes directly on top the jet needle e-clip and the thinner spacer goes directly under the clip. Without the top ring, the bike will run much richer than intended at anything above approx' 1/6 throttle position.
If those, or other parts are missing, these carbs have been subjected to poor maintanance and that's even more reason to inspect everything closely and get them back to good shape so you don't drive yourself nuts trying to tune/jet them.
For one thing, inspect/set the float levels. I believe your carbs should be between .90 and .98". I always set then right in the middle....94".
As for jetting, you said you have a "511" main. That's obviously a typo.
See my previous suggestions for jetting. If you found the jet needle with the e-clip in the 3rd position from the top, that would be the factory set position and I assure you that's way too lean considering your mods. If those pods and pipe flow as they should, then my past experience says to lower the e-clip to the 5th (bottom) position. Any decent pipe and even the cheaper pods should require at least "1 1/2" positions richer at the jet needles. A 1/2 position is achieved by use of a .022" jetting spacer. Since it's always best to jet rich and work your way back if necessary, and because I doubt you have those jetting spacers, I suggest trying the 5th position first. If it is a bit rich, then it depends on the plugs and performance if you should go to position 4 1/2 or ?? Who knows, you may even find that the bottom position isn't rich enough. If that happens, we'll discuss what to do later. I'm betting two full positions richer will work, as long as the other basic tuning is done and you have good compression, etc.
Remember, every time the jet needles are moved, the VM carbs must be re-vacuum synched. You can't accurately judge performance or trust uneven plug reads because the carbs aren't synched well and drawing uneven vacuum.

Thanks again for your responces

Bad news is that i can possitively say that the two plastic spacers and the metal plate in each slide asmbly are no longer there...you said this would make the bike run rich...so i think that would be contributing to my confusing problem. My guess is the PO removed them in his way to avoid rejetting for the pods and pipe?? The tough part is; Where the heck am i going to find replacements?? This could very well be no good at all In the event that i can find no replacements is there something i can use in their place? Now im very frustrated. Id hate to think im going to have to find new carbs altogether over this, but i get the feeling that may be the case...

Thanks again

TCK

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks again for your responces

Bad news is that i can possitively say that the two plastic spacers and the metal plate in each slide asmbly are no longer there...you said this would make the bike run rich...so i think that would be contributing to my confusing problem. My guess is the PO removed them in his way to avoid rejetting for the pods and pipe?? The tough part is; Where the heck am i going to find replacements?? This could very well be no good at all In the event that i can find no replacements is there something i can use in their place? Now im very frustrated. Id hate to think im going to have to find new carbs altogether over this, but i get the feeling that may be the case...
TCK

That's too bad. The thin brass plate with the dimple is needed to allow the jet needle to be in a "fixed" position and not allow it to rotate and slowly damage itself. That must be replaced.
As for the plastic ring and thinner plastic spacer, they are necessary too for good carb operation and obviously the jetting is effected greatly.
It's possible to replace them with similar pieces, possibly found at a hardware store, but since you need the brass plates, it's best to get some cheap "parts" carbs. As long as the needed parts are there, it shouldn't matter what condition the carbs are in. The parts you need are rarely damaged.
You can also make a new post in the parts wanted section. Many members have extra parts I'm sure. Just be sure to ask questions to be sure you get the identical parts.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

And another thought, I hope the jet needles still have their spring.

[TheCafeKid]

That's too bad. The thin brass plate with the dimple is needed to allow the jet needle to be in a "fixed" position and not allow it to rotate and slowly damage itself. That must be replaced.
As for the plastic ring and thinner plastic spacer, they are necessary too for good carb operation and obviously the jetting is effected greatly.
It's possible to replace them with similar pieces, possibly found at a hardware store, but since you need the brass plates, it's best to get some cheap "parts" carbs. As long as the needed parts are there, it shouldn't matter what condition the carbs are in. The parts you need are rarely damaged.
You can also make a new post in the parts wanted section. Many members have extra parts I'm sure. Just be sure to ask questions to be sure you get the identical parts.

Ugh thats what i was afraid youd say...well..ill put the post out there, and then start scouring ebay...worst comes to worst i guess i could always reaplace them with a set of tuned Keihin carbs..but thats 700 bucks...rough. Thanks again Keith for your help, and i'll probably hit you up for more info should i find this stuff...:-D

[TheCafeKid]

And another thought, I hope the jet needles still have their spring.

I cant remember if i pulled one off of there or not when i took em apart..ill have to go look...i know there were lots of springs heh. The one bonus i did think of is that these carbs were also on quite a few Kaw models too, so i should be able to find some donors somewhere...Always a silver lining...heh

[TheCafeKid]

Hey Keith...take a look at this...it seems this model doesnt have the parts we're talking about..or am i just looking at it wrong??

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/Suzuki.aspx

Also yes my main is not a 511 its 115 my bad...lol

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hey Keith...take a look at this...it seems this model doesnt have the parts we're talking about..or am i just looking at it wrong??

http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/Suzuki.aspx

Also yes my main is not a 511 its 115 my bad...lol

OK then. Looks like the "B" carbs have an inferior design but at least you're off the hook. As long as you're sure you have the B model.
As for the jetting...
It appears your jet needles are at the 2nd position from the factory?? That's what the parts list said at that link you provided. The "-2" after the jet needle number means that the e-clip is at position 2 from the top, straight from the factory.
If so, then you have 3 richer positions to use (needle should have 5 positions). That should be enough for your mods. I would try 2 positions richer (position 4 from the top) and test at 1/3 throttle. You did say the e-clip is at position 3 right now and of course you can always test at that position if you like. I REALLY doubt that just 1 position richer will be enough but it's up to you. I'd go to position 4 though.
I like to try to make the stock 15 pilot jet work along with richer fuel screw settings but since you already have 17.5, that's fine. Good chance the stock ones wouldn't work anyway and the 17.5's are always the next choice. Just as a guess, I'd initially set the pilot fuel screws underneath 1 full turn out with those 17.5's and test. Test at minimal throttle for the pilot circuit. I like to cruise steady about 35/40 in 4th gear for a couple miles level/uphill road and chop off and read the plugs. Be SURE the bike is fully warmed up for any testing.
As for the mains, a 115 isn't enough if your pipe and pods are flowing as they should. Something closer to 125/130 is commonly used. If your want an opinion as to what specific size, I'd probably try 127.5. No way to know for sure of course but that's where I'd start and hope it's right. Test the mains at full throttle.
As for the side air screws, I generally set them about 1 3/4 turns out initially. Once the bike is warmed up fully, I set them using the highest rpm method. Then the vacuum synch is done.
Backing up a bit, be sure to set those float levels and remove the 2 floatbowl vent lines. Be sure all electrical connections are solid/clean and you have a good blue spark. Remember to inspect the manifolds and replace the manifold o-rings too. Since you already set the valve clearances and set the ignition timing correctly, you should then be ready to test. I am wondering about the bit of white exhaust you mentioned though. If it is burning oil, that will effect performance and plug reads, depending on how much it's burning and if it still burns oil once fully warmed up. Leaky valve stem seals and rings are the most common reasons. If it just burns a little when still cold, you're probably OK for now, but it will get worse over time.
Once you get it running well, you might even want to experiment a little with the advance timing. You might find that 5 more degrees or so of advance makes the bike perform better. As long as you don't set the advance too much and promote pinging. It depends on how your jetting ends up too. If you think you're just a tad on the rich side but don't want to go with a smaller jet/adjustment, then a little more advance will help that slightly rich condition and make the bike perform better. Some tuners even go with advanced timing from the start and jet accordingly. Up to you.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Another thought...some parts shops carry a selection of Mikuni mains and they MAY allow you to swap/return them for the next size if you don't nick them up in any way when you install them.
You might also find that members here have jets lying around that they don't need anymore or will sell cheap. Just be sure of what you're getting if you go with used.

[TheCafeKid]

Hey Keith i wanted to thank you again for all of your help thus far..its gettin close...im going to order bigger mains and i found a intake leak in number one, so orings too..you say 127.5? or should i try 125s first?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just saw this as I'm off to bed.
As always, it's very hard to try to guess jetting the first time and be done. From my past experience, a 125 or 127.5 is my best guess. I would probably go with the 127.5's if the pipe and pods flow as well as they should. I hope the jet needles in position 4 work well.
I also posted at your other thread if interested.
Gotta hit the hay. Big day of polishing up the bike for the big annual run this Sunday. I always take off the Friday before to get it done.

[TheCafeKid]

Enjoy sir!! And thanks much...i owe ya one or 20 should we ever meet up!

Josh