Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

General carb tuning info

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Chef,

    Could it be the pilots?
    I would try to richen up the pilot circuit using the screws first, I read somewhere on here that having them slightly rich helped the transition from no throttle to some throttle (makes sense cause more petrol in there already when you open it up then).

    Certainly having those screws too lean on my bike made the idle hang as you describe. Something to try before you mess with the needles again...

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
      Chef,

      Could it be the pilots?
      I would try to richen up the pilot circuit using the screws first, I read somewhere on here that having them slightly rich helped the transition from no throttle to some throttle (makes sense cause more petrol in there already when you open it up then).

      Certainly having those screws too lean on my bike made the idle hang as you describe. Something to try before you mess with the needles again...

      Dan
      Could be but since he wasn't popping on decel I didn't consider it. I jumped from stock 45 pilot to 47.5 pilots but I also jumped up to 170 on the air jet from 160.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #18
        OK, I'll go another 1/2 on the screws and see where that happens. I couldn't find any intake leaks and and just checked the valves (all in good shape). If the pilots don't do it, I'll richen the needles by one clip.

        I set everything per the Dynojet instructions, so if they tend to be lean, I didn't use the pilot air jet they say is optional. According to the instructions, I don't need it, AND it leans out the bottom.

        I haven't done a Synch, which I know might smooth things out a bit more. I don't have the equipment nor the money to purchase so I'll have to do without for now.

        Thanks for the input!

        JM

        Comment


          #19
          I did not use the Dynojet air jet either.
          Sync those carbs. Could be the issue.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #20
            There's a link on here for making your own. I downloaded the PDF. Basically a board, some tubes & some connectors. Should be cheap enough.....

            Let me know if you want me to email the PDF to you.

            Dan
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #21
              I read that link, but couldn't get a handle on making it. Maybe I should look again.

              JM

              Comment


                #22
                The way I read it it's very simple. Just a board, 4 tubes, 4 smaller tubes & some connectors + some old oil.

                Depends how valuable your time is I guess. Is there nobody on here near you that you could tap up to take it over too for a quick test, I don't *think* it takes too long.

                Dan
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                Comment


                  #23
                  The carbs must be synched well to accurately re-jet.
                  Otherwise, you may find yourself re-jetting for what may be a vacuum related issue.
                  The slow to return idle (as long as the throttle plates are operating smoothly/correct throttle cable action) is generally a lean condition but a poor synch will aggravate things.
                  The slight stumble could be caused by a poor synch. Basic tuning, which includes synching, really must be done so you know any problems are jetting related.
                  Hard to say without being able to ride the bike, but a "stumble" could also be poor throttle response. Very often with the CV carbs, you need to drill out the vacuum orifice to the diaphragm/piston chamber to improve throttle response. Sometimes lighter springs will fix it too.
                  Stock air jet may be a problem too.
                  I'd test at 1/3 throttle and read the plugs before changing jet needle position. But like I said, without a balanced synch, you may get uneven plug reads that just add to frustration.
                  And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                  Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Ok, I'll work out something about synching, maybe a small shop locally can give me a hand or something like that. I did drill the slides per Dynojet's instructions, so the vacuum orifice has been enlarged from stock ~

                    JM

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      Would that be the DynoJet 138 or Mikuni 138? :shock:

                      I am under the impression that they are different sizes and not interchangeable. Yes, they are interchangeable in the sense that you can install the DJ jets in a Mikuni carb, but the DJ 138 jets are NOT the next size larger than a Mikuni 135. Not sure how they relate, but they are not the same.


                      .
                      Correct :-D one is measured by the actual size of the hole & the other by the flow rate ! ie a 138 DJ jet is NOT the same size as a 138 mikuni jet the seat where the needle sits is also a different shape & the needles themselves have a different taper

                      mixing the 2 types will have you chasing your tail for ages (from experiance)

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X