Secondary Drive Gear

[dgeorge]

Well I finally got around to trying to install a new drive shaft in my 1983 GS1100GK that the PO had said the u-joints were bad in. Well when I pulled the swing arm off pieces started falling out . It seems the real problem was that the end of the secondary drive gear had broken right behind the nut so that is what was making the noise (I had already purchased a drive shaft with the u-joints). Does anyone have any idea what might have caused this to shear off like this? Also when I get the shop to replace the secondary drive set should I have them check anything else? Pete (pjackson) said his was starting to remind him of the movie the Money Pit and I'm really beggining to agree with him. I'm starting to think I should just part out what is good on the bike and take my losses and find something that isn't going to be such a problem.

[Anonymous]

Having owned GS shafties for 17 years, I can tell you that this problem you've had is pretty rare. I have no idea what may have caused it.

Chances are that, once you've replaced the appropriate parts, the bike will be good to go for a very long time. Keep the faith. The GK is an outstanding motorcycle, which you should be able to enjoy once it's fixed up.

Nick

[mcconnell]

My brother-in-laws 83 GS1100GD secondary drive broke after hitting what he described as a large pothole in the road. Mine broke shortly after going fast on a very bumpy gravel road.

While the shop is doing this, they should repack the swingarm bearings and lubricate the drive shaft splines (at the final drive) and the wheel-to-final drive splines.

But like Nick said, these are outstanding motorcycles. Fix this and ride on.

[Anonymous]

I don't know what caused it, Daniel, but my 650 Katana broke in exactly the same place; behind the nut on the end of the secondary driven gear unit. Mine did it changing down on a smooth road with no warning and I just put it down to bad luck. I think this a rare occurance, fortunately.

[Anonymous]

The same shaft snapped at the same location on my '83 1100G last Summer while just cruising along as mellow as can be. I probably put another 2k on it before I bit the bullet and changed it out. IMHO it was caused by a stress point at the base of the threads. Regardless though, it has to be changed. Replace both assemblies when you do the job. Fortunately, the parts come pre-assembled from Suz. Also, you don't have to pull the engine to split the cases to replace them.
The real challenge is going to be finding new parts. According to Suz HQ in CA, I bought the last set in the US. If you do find NOS parts, expect to spend about $600 for the pair.
I'll be happy to send you directions and a few tips on doing the job if you email me.
Good luck.

[mcconnell]

And if you are going to a salvage yard for your parts, plan on spending something less than $200. I ended up with the parts out of a 1981-ish GS1000G that are the same part number, per BikeBandit.com, as those in the 1100G. My parts were $100, but I had to remove them from the bike in the salvage yard. It was actually fun removing the parts, knowing that I didn't have to put it back together.

[dgeorge]

Well I've found the 2nd drive bevel gear set at Ron Ayers here in NC for about $180, but I've tried to get them out with out taking the engine out and no luck, not enough room behind the eng to get that one out. If I just use the shims from the old set will it be set about right as far as tooth match and all? or will I need to get some more shims also? I guess the reason I'm getting so frustrated with this is because I'm paying $1,200 for it and haven't gotten to hear it run yet. First the starter then the carb problems, plus having the seat reupholstered and sanding all of the d$%# thing down to paint it, and now this. I've got so much into it I can't afford to not get it running now. Well while I've got the eng out I might as well paint the frame to, maybe I'll be able to get in one ride before next winter. It's frustrating to have it sitting in the garage and not be able to ride it on days like today 70 here today with clear skies and absolutly beautiful out. Thanks to everybody for the encouragement especially Nick, and Mcconnell. I'll probably take Al up on the offer of advice and email him to see how to do it with out taking out the eng.

[SqDancerLynn1]

It's my understanding you need to take the motor mounts loose so that you can raise the motor to get the clearence to change it. Yes you need to use the old shims

[mcconnell]

My experience base for removing these parts is 3-GS1100G's and 1-GS1000G. I didn't have to remove the engine for any of them, though, like SqDL said, I did have to loosen the engine mount bolts and pry the engine CCW (looking from the top) to get that last 1/16 inch clearance I needed. I also loosened the engine case bolts nearest the unit to make sure it came out of the case easier, though I'm not sure you have to that.

I transferred the shims from the original units on the bike to the replacement gear units. I don't know if that was right, but the gears are quiet. I assume when these gears mesh, quiet is good.

Are you going to do the work yourself?

[Anonymous]

chains rock!

[Anonymous]

Yes, of course chains rock. They're such an ancient means of power delivery, they remind me of the Stone Age.

Shafts rule!

Shaftie Nick