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Oil Change question?

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    #16
    I sent him an e-mail, he didn't have any left

    Guess I'm stuck, unless I can use the GS550ES manual.

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      #17
      Oh and, I don't blame you for having trouble pronouncing my nickname, it's far easier in norwegian

      Ok maybe i missed it but speaking for my self what is your real name???

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        #18
        It's ?ivind, but I don't think that's any easier

        I just have to say though, this site - especially this forum - is a godsend. Just what I wanted to find starting out as a motorcyclist. I've read quite a few threads already and I'm impressed by the knowledge and willingness to share both you and a lot of the others on this forum display.

        As for the manual, I'll get by with what I've got for now. I'm just waiting for the parts to put the fork back together, gonna spend the next few days making sure the electrics are good, and as soon as the fork is back on the bike it's out on the road!

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          #19
          You can forget about gear lube as there is nothing on your bike that uses any. :-) I think shop manual's vary on some points. Probably a suzuki shop manual is more accurate than mine. Everything is fine if the oil level is between the high and low marks on the sight glass. I just dump three quarts into my 750 and then pour from the fourth quart until the oil shows almost to the full mark in the sight window.

          Earl

          Originally posted by D|sElMiNk
          Earlfor : thanks for that bit of info! I've replaced the oil and oil filter on my bike, using Castrol GTX20w50 (coincidence, perhaps, it was what my bike shop recommended). So that gear lube is not of any concern on my 16v TSCC engine ? Oh and, I filled her up with 3.8liters of oil after draining the old oil and replacing the oil filter - as that was what the manual from the bike shop stated.
          Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

          I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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            #20
            I have a spare factory gs750 manual as it happens (and no GS750!). It is not as good or comprehensive as the later factory gs1000 manual, so I don't think there is an advantage in the factory manual over a Clymer etc.

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              #21
              earlfor : Thank you, just what I needed to know.

              The oil level on my bike seems a little high though, the whole window is full. Keep in mind that the engine hasn't been started since I changed the oil, so I figure that once he crank has turned a few turns the oil will be pumped to new parts of the engine (boldly going where no oil has gone before).

              Am I right in this assumption ? :?

              Oh and, that shop manual definately is comprehensive. I'll probably end up shelling out $111 if I can get one just like it.

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                #22
                After changing the oil filter and filling the crankcase, the oil level showing in the sight window will go down slightly once the oil filter is filled. Run the bike for about half a minute, the check the level with the bike on the centerstand. If its still overfull, drain a little out.

                Earl


                Originally posted by D|sElMiNk
                earlfor : Thank you, just what I needed to know.

                The oil level on my bike seems a little high though, the whole window is full. Keep in mind that the engine hasn't been started since I changed the oil, so I figure that once he crank has turned a few turns the oil will be pumped to new parts of the engine (boldly going where no oil has gone before).

                Am I right in this assumption ? :?

                Oh and, that shop manual definately is comprehensive. I'll probably end up shelling out $111 if I can get one just like it.
                Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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                  #23
                  Okay, I'll be starting her up tomorrow. Spent this evening reassembling and mounting the fork. All that needs to be done is to change the brake fluid and then I'm done with that end of the bike.

                  I'll be adding an in-line fuel filter and changing the battery connectors tomorrow.

                  Looks like I'll be able to take her for my first ride this weekend

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                    #24
                    I bought a manual from Robert for a total of $ 27 dollars Canadian ($15 American) including postage. In Canada the same manual in a store is $45 or more!. I found that the more work you do on your bike the more you enjoy riding it. A year ago I knew nothing about my bike and now i know it like the back of my hand. It feels good to ride something you fixed. Without a manual and this site it would have been overwhelming.
                    Have Fun!!!

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                      #25
                      I ordered a Clymer from Chapters a few years ago and it took months. Zeke was right on the price too, it was really high.

                      Steve

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                        #26
                        Manuals are one thing J.C. Whitney's can't screw up. They send it quick and not overpriced, but I don't know if they ship to other countries.

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                          #27
                          Check EBAY for manuals there too, i f i remember there was one listed pretty cheap under "GS1100". :twisted:

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                            #28
                            You can forget about gear lube as there is nothing on your bike that uses any.
                            What about the secondary and final drive units? I use 90W hypoid gear oil in mine (850GL) per the manual.

                            Is the Haynes manual wrong (again)??????

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by D|sElMiNk
                              I just got my first bike this winter, a 1983 GSX750ES, and I'm in the process of getting it ready for the season. I don't have a manual though, all I've got are some pages I xeroxed from the workshop manual at one of the local bike shops. A manual might be worth it's weight in gold, but right now $111 is a bit much to spend on a book :?

                              What kind of oil should I use for the gears, and how much do I need to do a complete change ? The previous owner rode this thing way more than he maintained it
                              First things first, your bike is CHAIN final drive, there is no gear oil to change. So use an ENGINE oil to change the engine oil, the drain plug for which is underneath rearward of the midline of the motor and the oil filter housing with five nuts holding is at the front of the motor at the bottom. Those genuine manuals can get very expensive, try an aftermarket manual like Clymer or Haynes as everyone else mentioned.
                              Dink

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Yeah I know, I figured that by now. The bike in the original question was a two valve GS shaftie. I did use genuine engine oil. Took it out for the first time today - this thing is a rocket on wheels :twisted:

                                As for the manuals, I haven't been able to find one from Clymers or Haynes on my bike. I feel like I've looked everywhere on the net. As long as the bike shop here allows me to xerox whatever I want from their manual I'm ok.

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