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Oil Change question?

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    #31
    When changing engine oil, it is a good idea to go for a ride first (at least 15 miles) so that the oil gets heated up (drains more easily) and contaminants are suspended in the oil.

    On the 1983 GS(X)750E/ES, I seem to recall that the drain plug takes a 21 mm socket.

    Simon

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      #32
      With the "oil" like it was in my bike when I bought it, I wanted to ride it as little as possible. When I removed the drain plug lots of fluid gushed out, and I do mean GUSHED - it smelled more like gasoline than anything else. 8O

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        #33
        I changed the oil on my GS550E yestarday. I couldn't find any SE/SR oil anywhere. I went to walmart and pepboys. I went to the motorcycle shop and got some honda oil, the guy said it would work fine and wouldn't hurt the wet clutch. I think its SJ rated.

        The manual for the bike says it take 2.5 quarts. It took a lot more then that to fill it up. Well its in between the L and H mark now.

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          #34
          conquestpa : I have Honda 10W40 dinosaur oil in my GK crankcase right now. It works just fine. I've used the stuff plenty of times, as well as the Suzuki 10W40 and Yamalube 20W40. I get it at my local dealers, so I can continue to have a good relationship with them. So, I seldom go in a dealer and leave empty-handed. I could always use some oil anyway!

          D|sElMiNk : one possible reason why the drained oil came out smelling of gasoline is that the fuel got into the crankcase bypassing the petcock. A leaky petcock will let the fuel get in there and contaminate the motor oil, rendering it useless, with potential damage to the engine.

          Have the petcock chacked.

          Nick

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            #35
            Have the petcock chacked.

            Also have it checked

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              #36
              Got me there, Scotty! Glad to know there are indeed other smarta$$es in this forum!

              I'll be more careful chacking things in the future.

              Chacking Nick

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                #37
                how does one check the fuel petock?

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by Nick Diaz
                  Got me there, Scotty! Glad to know there are indeed other smarta$$es in this forum!

                  I'll be more careful chacking things in the future.

                  Chacking Nick
                  Nick it is probably the ony time i cought a spelling error in any ones posts. Especially mine.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by conquestpa
                    how does one check the fuel petock?
                    You may chack or check your petcock by removing the gas line and seeing if it is dripping. Overnight would be better.
                    Also take a look at the plug that is related to the carb that the petcock vacume line is connected to. See if it is darker than the others. There is a bit more but please do those things first.

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                      #40
                      OK one more beginneer question:

                      I've never changed a spark plug in a bike before, I put a new set in last night when I did the oil. So I pull the first plug wire and was like "hmmm theres somthing wrong with this plug. The little brass insert was in there backwards for some reason. So I used some needle nose pliers to get it out. Out came a little gray tube of porcelien. I thought "what the hell is that? Thats not supposed to be there" so I took it out and threw it on the garage floor...



                      I screw the brass insert backin till it stopped turning easily.


                      Luckily, the brass inserts in the other plug wires weren't messed up so I didn't have to "fix" them




                      Seems to be running fine, at first the idle was a little off, but its fine now.

                      When I get out of work Im going to try to find the resistor porcelon and try to put it back it there. The bike seemed to run fine with out it. I will also run up to the store and get some di electric greese to put on the plugs, sure that won't hurt.

                      Is there any damage that can be caused without that insulating porcelon in there? Anything else speacial about the brass part or the plugs I should know?

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by pjackson
                        Originally posted by D|sElMiNk
                        Nick Diaz : I am very much indeed getting ripped off. That $111 is in US currency. The price quoted to me for a new manual was 815kr. If the manual had cost 111kr I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. I can afford the manual later on, I just think it's a lot of money for something I should be able to find at a more reasonable price.

                        Oh and, I don't blame you for having trouble pronouncing my nickname, it's far easier in norwegian

                        As for the Clymer manual, the closest match I've found for my bike (GSX750ESD) is this:


                        Are there any differences between the 550 and the 750 that could fork things up for me if I were to buy it?
                        D|sElMiNk,
                        You might check with Robert Skelton. He has manuals for sale in the Misc Parts For Sale forum all the time. Even with overseas postage I'd think it would be quite a bit less than $111 USD.



                        If what he was getting is the Factory Service Manual, it may indeed be $111. I paid like $60, 10 yrs ago, but it's for all 1100 models 81-82 and it is from the Factory, so it covers EVERYTHING

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                          #42
                          Thanks for the heads-up Nick and slopoke - I'll check on the petcock tomorrow when it's been sitting overnight. I mounted the in-line fuel filter today. I will also need to get some new spark plugs before I can ride again, as it only starts up on three cylinders right now.

                          Daveo : you are probably right, as it did cover every aspect of the bike. I might shell out for it later, but right now I cannot afford it.

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                            #43
                            OK, as far as my spark plug situation is concerned, I geuss I'll just look in the manual, but any tips would be helpful...

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                              #44
                              Hmm...checked on the petcock today, the petcock itself seems to sweat a tiny amount of fuel from it's bottom (onto the engine), but when I removed the fuel line there was extremely little, if any, fuel there.

                              For now I can ride with it, as I'll be using the bike quite a lot once I get those spark plugs - but I want to fix it before putting the bike away for storage after the season is over. I'll look into those Pingle valves - does anyone have a favorite model ?

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by D|sElMiNk
                                Hmm...checked on the petcock today, the petcock itself seems to sweat a tiny amount of fuel from it's bottom (onto the engine), but when I removed the fuel line there was extremely little, if any, fuel there.

                                For now I can ride with it, as I'll be using the bike quite a lot once I get those spark plugs - but I want to fix it before putting the bike away for storage after the season is over. I'll look into those Pingle valves - does anyone have a favorite model ?
                                Ill tell you and easy and very inexpensive way to solve your problem if you tell me your full real name please.

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