Where do I start?

[jager1313]

I am feeling pretty lost. I just bought an '81 GS550L with 117000 miles on it. I have no idea when the oil was last changed or the condition of the fluids. I rode the bike home and it seems to ride fine. Althought I wouldn't know if something is wrong since this is my first bike.

I got the bike into my garage and realized:
1. the left front fork may be leaking, oil build up with all this dust and crud stuck to the outside.
2. the clutch is sticking. After the engine warms up, I pull the clutch lever in and put the bike into first gear, the back wheel starts to spin. Is the clutch not engaging?
3. the engine, starting from cold, idles super low even with the choke pulled all the way out. I have to keep trottling to keep the engine from stalling.

I am new to doing any of my own work. I feel like I have a good sense of machines, but after reading the clymer manual there just seems like a million things that could be wrong. Where should I start with the fixes? Should I change all the oils first? Lubricate the clutch line? I tried to foloow the manual and tighten the clutch cable, that didn't work, problem persists.

I also really want to take things down to the bare frame and just get a good washing in. There seems to be years of dust built up everywhere. Should I do this first? Or fix all the problems first?

Any input would be great!

[Steven Conlan]

No expert - but

Wow -117000 miles.
Yes I would start with a complete fluids change. Clutch you MIGHT be able to adjust - follow the clutch cable - most time there are adjustment at both ends.
I come from the school - If it aint broke, dont fix it. But I would be hard pressed (at that miliage) to not go deep into engine.
Good luck - and I am sure you will get all good advise from this site.

[Griffin]

First, get a service manual. The Clymer one is good, the Suzuki factory manual is best, if you can find one.

If you have access to a compression gauge, check compression. If it's in the 120 psi range or below, you have some engine issues that will need to be evaluated before putting any more money into the bike. If it's in the 140s or higher, get to work.

Since it runs ok, first do all routine maintenance items. Oil, filters, new brake fluid, inspect the chain. Lube and check chain tension/alignment, or replace if necessary. If you replace the chain, replace the sprockets as well. Check brake pads for wear, replace if necessary. Adjust and lubricate all cables. Change the spark plugs, even if the ones in it look ok. At least that way you know how old they are.

The clutch probably just needs some adjustment.

Inspect the tires. Look carefully for fine dry rot cracks. Tires can have plenty of tread on them, but be unsafe due to age. If you need new tires, change out the wheel bearings while you have the wheels off anyway.

Check the steering head for play. If loose, replace steering head bearings.

The carbs could probably use a good cleaning, and new set of o-rings, as well as the intake boots. You can get them here www.cycleorings.com for cheap. If the boots are cracked, replace them. There is a carb cleanup series on this site.

This sounds like a lot of work, but honestly, it's one long weekend's worth of time if you get organized and get down to it, with either an experienced friend helping you, or going step by step from the manual. All of this is for either your safety, or cheap insurance to keep your bike running good.

As you take things apart and inspect them, you'll notice small things that need attention. Either take care of them, or write them down in a notebook so you can plan to remedy the issues later.

Your bike got you home, and that's half the battle. Now you have to make sure it can keep getting you home, day after day.

[Griffin]

Also, check valve clearances. Step by step from the manual will work, but it will go a lot faster and easier if you find someone nearby who's done it before to help.

Get a multimeter for electrical stuff. You can get a serviceable one at Home Depot for about $20. Check the charging system per the stator papers. If it's good, leave it alone for now. If it isn't charging correctly, post about it here, and you'll get plenty of help.

Clean and tighten all ground connections, and any other connections you end up disconnecting before reconnecting back. The wiring systems on these bikes decay a bit over time, and can be a headache. Especially if the bike's been stored outside much.

Once again, none of this stuff is difficult, it just takes some organization and patience.

[bwringer]

Also, check valve clearances. Step by step from the manual will work, but it will go a lot faster and easier if you find someone nearby who's done it before to help.

Gee, wonder how you learned that? :-D I second the advice to adjust the valves ASAP.

I would add that the clutch is most likely working normally -- the clutches on these bike run in oil, so a bit of drag is perfectly normal and expected. They will all spin the rear wheel as you describe if you put it in gear on the centerstand with the engine running and the clutch lever pulled in.

The first sign of vacuum leaks is a wonky idle -- I'd replace the intake boot o-rings pronto, and replace the boots as well if they're not obviously new. Then make sure there are no air leaks in the airbox (make sure that air can only get in where it's supposed to), and that the air filter is in good shape.

[spyug]

All of what the guys have said but i would start with a thorough washing and cleaning.

It sounds like there might be a lot of crud on that bike and road grime can cover a multitude of problems.

After cleaning you can have a real close look at the bike from stem to stern. Look for cracks in the tires, wheels and the bikes frame. Lots of high mileage bikes develope stress cracks in key areas of the frame which would need to be rewelded for safety.

Put the bike on the center stand or a bike lift if you have access to one ( good investment at $75 or so makes working on the bike and moving it around the garage a whole lot easier). Get a helper if you can. Start at one end and work toward the other. Put the bike in neutral with engine off and turn the back tire. Check the chain ( assuming you have one)as it turns...does it bind...is it rusty...does the back cog look good or are the teeth bent or hooked? Do you hear any clicking...does the wheel spin true or does it wobble. Put the bike down and have the helper steady the front. Bounce the back end up and down...any noises or binding...do the shocks seem to work? Put the bike back on the stand have the helper steady the front. Can you wiggle the swingarm side to side or can you twist it laterally?

Make notes.

Move to the engine. If dirty degrease it and check for visible leaks. What are the state of the carbs, tank, petcock, electricals etc.

Make notes.

Move to the front end. You've already noted a leaking fork seal. On the stand have the helper keep the backend down. Rotate the wheel. Check trueness, any noises, brakes work. Grab the forks by the wheel and push then pull. Any slack? Center the handlebars then swing them slowly from side to side. Any notchiness or back and forth slop in the fork would indicate the need for new steering head bearings.

Make more notes.

Turn on and try all electricals. Get a multi meter and test battery voltage. Start the bike and check charging voltage which should show better than 14V across the battery. Test all lights horn turn signals and brake lights. Make a note of any worn or frayed lines and connections with rust or crud on them.

It seems like a lot of work but an hour or so and you should have a good idea of the status of the bike and those areas you need to address.

I'm a firm believer in safety first so I always start with the tires, then brakes, then suspension, steering and frame then brake lights and turn signals.

Once they are sorted then I move to engine which usually means carb cleaning and rebuild, ditto petcock and sometimes tank cleaning and sealing.

As mentioned, most if not all of this can be sorted out in two full days of a weekend. In reality, it often takes a couple of weeks to sort everything out as you will likely have to source parts and likely have to wait for some stuff to come in on order.

While there is always a ton of exitement at getting a new ride and the desire to ride is overwhelming at times, I'd urge you to go slow. Get the manuals and read up cover to cover ( just before bed is good). Familiarize yourself with one subsystem at a time. Take things off the bike clean them up and put them back on. A bench mounted grinder with brass wire wheel is great for cleaning rust and crud of nuts, bolts and metal parts and hand grinders and Dremel tools with brushes are great for cleaning up frame parts. Keep a to do list and check it off as you go. Use lots of plastic sandwich bags to keep your parts in order and don't forget to label them.

The upcoming winter time is great for this. You get 4 to 6 months of time to clean and rebuild and looking forward to the first spring ride is a great feeling. The feeling of accomplishment is also great especially with all the compliments you'll get.

Good luck with the new project.
Cheers,
Spyug.

[Nessism]

Lots of good advice in this thread!

Not doubting you about the mileage but are you sure the odometer turned over? There is no 100,000 digit so maybe it only 11,700 - which would be far more likely unless the engine has been changed at some point.

At any rate, welcome to the GSR - best motorcycle community on the web (my opinion of course)!

[t3rmin]

My test for whether there's excessive clutch drag is whether I can easily stop the wheel spinning with my foot (while on centerstand of course).

[RacingJake]

I'd just fill the gas tank up and go for a ride cause if it's going to break it's going to do it out there 8O sounds like a movie I watched

Change the oil and filter, check the chain, tire's and light's and go have some fun. If the motor sounds good and you don't hear any funny noises don't sweat the other stuff, that's what winter is for. You'll have lots of time to work on the small stuff.

[jager1313]

What? no 100,000 digit?

Are you sure? So if my odometer reads 117541, the last digit is not a full mile? It would be like 11754.1? This is all very possible, how would I know for sure?

[t3rmin]

Are you sure? So if my odometer reads 117541, the last digit is not a full mile? It would be like 11754.1? This is all very possible, how would I know for sure?

To convince yourself, go ride it and watch how long it takes for that digit to move.

[Griffin]

Generally, the last digit is tenths of a mile, and is a different color from the other digits. I do not know of any GS that didn't have tenths on the odometer, but I've been wrong before.

[Nessism]

Are you sure? So if my odometer reads 117541, the last digit is not a full mile? It would be like 11754.1? This is all very possible, how would I know for sure?

Yes, I'm sure. Your bike has 11,754 miles (just a baby:-D) unless someone has ridden it enough to turn over the odometer - VERY unlikely.