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    My newest project

    Here she is, my $200.00 1982 GS1100L . It is an 8 valve model. I'm charging the battery right now, but I believe she is only firing on 2 cylinders. I'll change the coils and take it from there. Isn't this the motor that is sought after to build (8 Valve). I keep thinking it should be an 1150 block and jugs and put this head on. Anyway, my plans are, 29's, minor cams, Dyna coils, Dyna ign, super bike bars and reshoot the paint. I'll keep the factory paint scheme but use a diamond (metallic) black instead of gloss.The seat is growing on me but I may have to raise the front half just a little to level it out just a smidge. How do I find out about the crank welding and should I keep this to a minimum untill then? I would love to see your photos and hear your thoughts before I move forward. I will probly start the build next week or week after.
    Last edited by Guest; 10-21-2007, 04:49 PM.

    #2
    Just my opinion of course but I'd go straight at the carbs and do a complete rebuild/clean out. Replace all the O-rings, bowl gaskets as needed, and the intake pipe "boot" O-rings. The bike has a pipe so take note of the jetting; many people don't rejet like they should when adding a pipe. Your bike already has a CDI ignition so you won't gain anything by going Dyna unless there is some fault.

    I'm not sure about welding on the crank and so forth; most people talking about such stuff are refering to the 16 valve varity.

    My opinion again but spending money on cams/carbs seems kind of silly for a shafty. The 1100G is a great bike that is best left alone. Get yourself an E model if you want to tweak.

    Good luck.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Thanks, that's the kind of input I'm looking for. What is the best performance carb for this bike?

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        #4
        Originally posted by Kahuna View Post
        Thanks, that's the kind of input I'm looking for. What is the best performance carb for this bike?
        The stock ones. Seriously, on a shaftie like your's (and mine) just keep it mechanically stock as far as the engine is concerned and enjoy riding it.

        The suspension on these bikes is a different matter and could definitely use some upgrades there.

        And of course the visual style of the bike is completely up to you. :-D

        Comment


          #5
          Looks like a good buy for $200. I gather that you already have a service manual. Clean the carbs as suggested. Fit new plugs and check the condition of the HT leads and connections.
          Now go to the manual's regular servicing section and do all the recommended checks before firing it up.
          Don't go spending out on performance parts until you have ridden the bike for a couple of months to find out if it's really what you want!
          The shaft drive models like ours are convenient. There is little maintenance required on the drive train (no chain to stretch and spray oil all over the place). There is however a price in weight to be paid for this convenience.
          If you still like the bike after a couple of months, there is nothing stopping you from fitting OS high compression pistons to your motor. You can still run the stock carbs with a 4-1 exhaust and make a considerable gain in performance. Don't listen to the knockers who say you could buy an E and get even better performance. The E will never have a shaft, if that's what is important to you.
          That is what I did to my 850. I am very satisfied with the increase in performance.
          I'm surprised that others haven't taken this route.
          Good luck.
          :) The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

          GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
          GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
          GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
          GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

          http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
          http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

          Comment


            #6
            Unless you're planning on racing it those old 1100's go like the clappers already standard, and will probably produce more power than you'll really need. You'll blow any Humpty Dumpty to the weeds as is.

            An advantage with keeping it standard is that the engine will last longer, and, when needed, you can work it hard with more confidence that it won't blow.

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              #7
              Thanks guys, I soaked in the input. I own a gs750t w/29's that does wheelies on demand, and a mint 77 KZ1000 That leaps with her avon venoms, she also has 29's. I think for now I will get her mechanically doing the best she can do with what she has and then upgrade from there if needed.
              I am going to start a post for this build as I identified some issues tonight.

              Comment


                #8
                Once you get the carbs cleaned and jetting straightened out, valves adjusted, and plugs changed, that engine in that chassis will wheelie all you want it to.

                With the lower gearing it has, it's a true torque beast.
                sigpic

                SUZUKI:
                1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
                HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
                KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
                YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

                Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

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