Help with tuning GS1000e

[phaserburn]

I am at wits end I have sychronized carbs using analog sync gauges. Now I'm trying to fine tune carbs. Carb #3 doesn't respond to any adjustments or just slightly. I am using colortune to view the spark. Most of the time all you can see is the spark with no real "explosion". Occasionally I can get it to run orange but weak. I took the carbs apart and recleaned them. Didn't find any clogs but used carb cleaner in all orifixes. Put it all back together but #3 still not changing no matter what I do with air or fuel mixture screw. The other carbs are just fine. There is "new" intake boots on all ports, so I don't believe there is any air leak.

Please Help!

[phaserburn]

I'm trying to get the bike up and running for tomorrow so anything ya'll can throw a me would be greatly appreciated.

I still cant figure out what is wrong. Could it be a clog somewhere in the idle circuit, something I missed??

What would be the best way of getting it free?

I have good compression and spark (using a color tune) so its not that and all the jets are clean and unclogged...

[Nessism]

It's easy to break off the tip of the pilot fuel screw in the carb body (don't ask me how I learned this). Are you sure yours are clear and the screw is in good shape?

[chef1366]

#3 still might be out of sync.

[phaserburn]

100% sure its clear and tip is nice and pointy...

keep it coming....

[phaserburn]

#3 still might be out of sync.

Since my gauges are intended for cars... if #3 is not sync, how can I adjust it from where it is to where it needs to be? Just listen for an idle increase and look at the colortune for signs of ignition?

Should I reset the air and fuel screw before I re-sync?

[chef1366]

Since my gauges are intended for cars... if #3 is not sync, how can I adjust it from where it is to where it needs to be? Just listen for an idle increase and look at the colortune for signs of ignition?

Should I reset the air and fuel screw before I re-sync?

If you don't think the vacuum sync tool works well do a good bench sync. Do a search.
If you have a colortune maybe you should get a carbtune.

[Nessism]

The problem with round analog vacuum gauges is they are not consistent with one another. It's best to hook them all up, one at a time, to a know source (such as one particular cylinder) and adjust the readings so they are all the same. This calibrates them so to speak so you can go forward and make the sync from there.

[Eli69]

just checkin', is the vacuum line that goes to the petcock open?

[phaserburn]

I closed that nipple off. So its closed as we tune it.

We synced the carbs, all 4 and there still is a problem. When we open the throttle, the color blues out as it should. I think something is clogging the idle circuit, so I am pulling the carbs and calling it a night. I will give another good cleaning tomorrow, until then, I appreciate everything and will keep ya'll posted.

J

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I am at wits end I have sychronized carbs using analog sync gauges. Now I'm trying to fine tune carbs. Carb #3 doesn't respond to any adjustments or just slightly. I am using colortune to view the spark. Most of the time all you can see is the spark with no real "explosion". Occasionally I can get it to run orange but weak. I took the carbs apart and recleaned them. Didn't find any clogs but used carb cleaner in all orifixes. Put it all back together but #3 still not changing no matter what I do with air or fuel mixture screw. The other carbs are just fine. There is "new" intake boots on all ports, so I don't believe there is any air leak.

Please Help!

I'm not sure if you're testing with the vacuum port at #3 capped already or if you're running with the vacuum line attached...
An orange spark at just the #3 carb could suggest a rich mixture or weak spark or a combo of both.
Be sure the plug lead is in good condition and no arcing from any cracks. Also, remove the plug cap and unscrew the connection and inspect the cap to lead connection for corrosion. Be sure the plug itself is good.
If all OK...
Test for a leaking petcock leaking fuel into the #3 carb via the vacuum line.
Remove the vacuum line and cap off the port at the carb tightly. Cap or safety the open vacuum port at the petcock, in case fuel DOES come out at all. Turn the petcock to PRIME. Be sure the plug is reasonably clean too.
Fuel should flow. After warm up, see if the #3 tunes like the others now.
If not, sounds like something's been missed inside the carb.

[phaserburn]

It's easy to break off the tip of the pilot fuel screw in the carb body (don't ask me how I learned this). Are you sure yours are clear and the screw is in good shape?

Interesting that you mention air screw tips. I have TWO sets of carbs. On BOTH sets #1 is slightly shorter and rounded compared to #'s2,3,4. Is this normal? When I first took apart my current carb set I thought it was weird but then I took apart the second set and the needs were exactly the same in the same sequence.

[t3rmin]

Make sure you're poking out the teensy holes in the top of the carb throat before and after where the butterfly contacts. And blow out every orifice hard with carb cleaner and/or compressed air. You should be able to observe stuff shooting out of those teensy holes while blowing carb cleaner into the appropriate jets (pilot jet and one of the front air jets, I believe). Once you're darn sure the idle passages are clear, put it back together, set the problem carb (#3) at the same number of turns on the screw as the others, then fire up the bike. Begin feeling the headers as it warms up. If that cylinder takes longer to get hot than the rest, the next thing I'd do is a good vacuum sync. That's assuming you're DARN sure you've got no vacuum leaks (intake boots, intake boot o-rings, etc.), and you're getting good spark.

[phaserburn]

I'm not sure if you're testing with the vacuum port at #3 capped already or if you're running with the vacuum line attached...
An orange spark at just the #3 carb could suggest a rich mixture or weak spark or a combo of both.
Be sure the plug lead is in good condition and no arcing from any cracks. Also, remove the plug cap and unscrew the connection and inspect the cap to lead connection for corrosion. Be sure the plug itself is good.
If all OK...
Test for a leaking petcock leaking fuel into the #3 carb via the vacuum line.
Remove the vacuum line and cap off the port at the carb tightly. Cap or safety the open vacuum port at the petcock, in case fuel DOES come out at all. Turn the petcock to PRIME. Be sure the plug is reasonably clean too.
Fuel should flow. After warm up, see if the #3 tunes like the others now.
If not, sounds like something's been missed inside the carb.

Keith, since I'm using the colortune in #3, I do not have my my gas tank connected. I have an external gas source direct to fuel line. The vacuum for the petcock is currently plugged. The intake boots are new. They are the ones for the Z1000 with the sensor nipples and O'ring built into the boot.

I can see a good spark from the colortune but I can't tell the exact strength of the charge. I will ohm out the coils and wires to see if I can find anything wrong there. When adjusting the fuel or pilot air mixture, I get no explosion (just spark) or I get an orange explosion (somewhat weak). Adjusting the slide screw when syncing the carbs, I was able to get a slight blue spark when the vacuum was reduced to minimum.

So right now I have a faint blue combustion with periodic orange (very weak compared to other cylinders. Any air or fuel adjustment I make does not improve the situation. It acts as if neither adjustment has an effect. Really perplexing.

[phaserburn]

Quote:
Originally Posted by KEITH KRAUSE
I'm not sure if you're testing with the vacuum port at #3 capped already or if you're running with the vacuum line attached...
An orange spark at just the #3 carb could suggest a rich mixture or weak spark or a combo of both.
Be sure the plug lead is in good condition and no arcing from any cracks. Also, remove the plug cap and unscrew the connection and inspect the cap to lead connection for corrosion. Be sure the plug itself is good.
If all OK...
Test for a leaking petcock leaking fuel into the #3 carb via the vacuum line.
Remove the vacuum line and cap off the port at the carb tightly. Cap or safety the open vacuum port at the petcock, in case fuel DOES come out at all. Turn the petcock to PRIME. Be sure the plug is reasonably clean too.
Fuel should flow. After warm up, see if the #3 tunes like the others now.
If not, sounds like something's been missed inside the carb.

Keith, since I'm using the colortune in #3, I do not have my my gas tank connected. I have an external gas source direct to fuel line. The vacuum for the petcock is currently plugged. The intake boots are new. They are the ones for the Z1000 with the sensor nipples and O'ring built into the boot.

I can see a good spark from the colortune but I can't tell the exact strength of the charge. I will ohm out the coils and wires to see if I can find anything wrong there. When adjusting the fuel or pilot air mixture, I get no explosion (just spark) or I get an orange explosion (somewhat weak). Adjusting the slide screw when syncing the carbs, I was able to get a slight blue spark when the vacuum was reduced to minimum.

So right now I have a faint blue combustion with periodic orange (very weak compared to other cylinders. Any air or fuel adjustment I make does not improve the situation. It acts as if neither adjustment has an effect. Really perplexing.