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**hp1000s** · 10-23-2007, 03:13 PM

Is that a "charging" light, or battery water/electrolyte-level?

**Nessism** · 10-23-2007, 03:30 PM

hp100s may have something...1100E's had a low battery light...check that first.

Regarding the R/R, just about any R/R will work, you just need to figure out how to wire it. I bought a late model Honda R/R off ebay for less than $30 shipped.

**Planecrazy** · 10-23-2007, 03:44 PM

The Suzuki R/R's are famous for burning out ... it's possible that it was going bad when he parked it and he just forgot. Replace it with a Honda unit (mine just arrived today for $20 shipped) -- they are beefier units that have a reputation for being more reliable than the stock Suzuki units. If you search r/r you ought to find several threads that discuss how to wire them in (it's NOT hard).

Also, lose the crappy "bullet" connectors and ground directly to the battery (this is discussed in most R/R threads). It's possible that your OEM unit is actually still good, but the connections have corroded and caused the problem.

Hope this is helpful!

Regards,

**koolaid_kid** · 10-23-2007, 06:47 PM

Before you start replacing parts, be sure and put a voltmeter on the system. This will tell you if it is the idiot light or truly the charging system.
It could also be something as simple as corrosion on the 3 wires from the stator to the regulator. Mine were pretty bad when I checked them this fall, and it lives in a partially heated garage.

**Steve** · 10-23-2007, 06:57 PM

The battery light is merely a light to tell you that a sensor can not sense any electrolyte in the battery.

If you still have a battery in there that will accept the sensor, check the fluid level in the battery. If the battery has been replaced and the sensor is just floating freely in the wiring harness, you have three options: 1) connect the wire above the sensor to a switched 12-volt wire. 2) remove the bulb from the instrument panel. 3) Install a battery that will accept the sensor.

Personally, I would put a sealed battery in there and disable the light by one of the two methods above. 8-[

.

**BassCliff** · 10-23-2007, 08:53 PM

Hey howdy hey!

Mr. oldslowrunner,

Let it be known that on this day you are hereby cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Please note that "good standing" implies pictures! :-D

As the others have stated, no reason to pay that kind of money for a new r/r when a used Honda part can be had for much cheaper. I got mine from Mr. duaneage, a member of this forum, for $40 shipped. Here you will see my old one on the left and the "new" one on the right:

The Honda part has an "extra" wire, called a "sense" wire. Just find a place to plug it into a switched 12v supply wire, usually the brake light. It "senses" when the voltage goes up or down and regulates the output of the stator accordingly. The other 5 wires are; 3 for the stator connections, one for the "hot", and one for the ground. Note that the r/r ground is best connected directly to the battery's negative terminal. Splice and solder some extra wire for length if you must.

Thanks for joining us. We look forward to pictures. It sounds as if you've already become quite the motorcycle mechanic. I have yet to delve into the joys of carburetor rebuilding.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

**Clone** · 10-23-2007, 10:10 PM

$175 for a RR, I'll sell you a RR for $175.
But seriously, you can find them much cheaper than that. Make sure that you have checked the whole system before you start tearing into it.

**Billy Ricks** · 10-23-2007, 10:45 PM

If you need an R/R go with a late model Honda unit off Ebay. You can pick up one that's only a year or two old for under $40 most any day of the week. And the newer Honda units don't have a sense wire, 5 wires just like the GS part.

**oldslowrunner** · 10-27-2007, 03:13 PM

thank you all

I guess I get a "duh" award for thinking the light was for the charge - in my defense, I don't have an owner's manual and didn't even know that electrolyte level lights existed. The sensor is long gone and once I found the wire, I touched it to the + terminal and voila! the light is off.

Secondly, I soldered some wire to the RR ground and ran that back to the battery ground. I also cleaned all of the connectors and that seems to have done the trick.

Finally got on the road today and found a few more bugs that need addressing. #1 is that this thing is a bear to start when it's cold; ended up having to jump the battery from the mighty Toyota Echo to get it fired up, #2 the idle racing when I stopped at lights; #3 is the stripped oil drain plug (that I had hoped would make it to winter before I'd have to fix it) backed off from the vibration and was leaking like a sieve. I have been searching the forum for #1 & 2 and have found many items that might help (now all I need is time to wade through them). #3 is already underway as I pulled the sump pan and will take it over the auto parts place for a Helicoil . When I do get it back together, I promise to take a photo and post it.

**Ironriot** · 10-27-2007, 04:35 PM

Originally posted by oldslowrunner View Post

I guess I get a "duh" award for thinking the light was for the charge - in my defense, I don't have an owner's manual and didn't even know that electrolyte level lights existed. The sensor is long gone and once I found the wire, I touched it to the + terminal and voila! the light is off.

Secondly, I soldered some wire to the RR ground and ran that back to the battery ground. I also cleaned all of the connectors and that seems to have done the trick.

Finally got on the road today and found a few more bugs that need addressing. #1 is that this thing is a bear to start when it's cold; ended up having to jump the battery from the mighty Toyota Echo to get it fired up, #2 the idle racing when I stopped at lights; #3 is the stripped oil drain plug (that I had hoped would make it to winter before I'd have to fix it) backed off from the vibration and was leaking like a sieve. I have been searching the forum for #1 & 2 and have found many items that might help (now all I need is time to wade through them). #3 is already underway as I pulled the sump pan and will take it over the auto parts place for a Helicoil . When I do get it back together, I promise to take a photo and post it.

I had to laugh

**Steve** · 10-27-2007, 04:51 PM

Originally posted by oldslowrunner View Post

Finally got on the road today and found a few more bugs that need addressing. #1 is that this thing is a bear to start when it's cold; ended up having to jump the battery from the mighty Toyota Echo to get it fired up, ...

Hopefully, the "mighty" Echo was not running when you jumped the battery. The way the GS charging system is designed, it will try to regulate any voltage it sees. There is a chance that the Echo's charging system puts out just a bit more than the GS's trip point, so the GS will try (usually unsuccessfully) to regulate the Echo's output, too.

Usual starting drill: 1) If it has been several days since the bike has been run (shame on you

), turn the petcock to PRIME for 30 seconds or so. 2) Apply something between half and full choke. 3)Turn on the key, pull the clutch, push the starter button. Do NOT touch the throttle. 4) Modulate engine speed with the choke to keep it under about 2,000 rpm. 5) By the time you get your jacket and helmet on, the bike will be ready to ride. 6) Don't forget to put the petcock back to the RUN position.

Originally posted by oldslowrunner View Post

#2 the idle racing when I stopped at lights;

Are you saying that it will idle normally when cold, but speeds up when the engine is warm? Classic symptoms of a vacuum leak. Prime culprits are the o-rings on the intake boots.

Originally posted by oldslowrunner View Post

#3 is the stripped oil drain plug (that I had hoped would make it to winter before I'd have to fix it) backed off from the vibration and was leaking like a sieve.

Sounds like you already have that situation under control.

.

**BassCliff** · 10-27-2007, 05:10 PM

Just Being Thorough ;-)

Mr. Steve,

Aren't you going to suggest a valve clearance check? :-D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

**Steve** · 10-27-2007, 05:44 PM

Yeah, I suppose I should, but do you think we should tell oldslowrunner why?

OK. Another classic symptom of hard to start when cold is lack of valve adjustment. The valves almost always tighten as they age. As the clearance (which is already very small) diminishes, the intake valve closes later. This allows the piston to come up farther before the valve is completely closed, which blows some of the mixture back into the intake throat. Moments later, on the next intake cycle, this fuel mixture will have a bit more mixture added to it, making it even richer, and harder to start. Properly adjusted valves wiill go a long way to making your bike so easy to start, you will wonder why you waited so long.

OK, BassCliff, now for the shameless plugs: 8-[
BassCliff has a nicely-illustrated tutorial on his website that will guide you through the adjustment procedure. On the last page of his tutorial, he says

... it's a good idea to inventory the shims in your motor. If you know your current shim size, you'll be able to know better what shims you may need for future adjustments. Document all clearances and shim sizes.

As luck would have it, I have developed an Excel spreadsheet that will help you do just that. Send me an e-mail and I will give you a copy of the spreadsheet.

.

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