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**Anonymous** · 03-31-2003, 08:52 PM

Don't quote me 110% on this but I think its better to tap into the main oil gallery behind the head and the oil pressure sending unit. I'm pretty sure this applies to roller crank engines. On a plain bearing 750 you can use the filter cover because of the higher oil pressure.

**Anonymous** · 03-31-2003, 09:34 PM

I also want to know how to do this except I have a 1980 GS750L. I purchased a Suzuki cooler off of a 80 something GS1000. I have seen aftermarket kits on Ebay that have instructions on drilling and tapping the filter cover. If someone can scan those instructions and then send the picture file or files to me I would appreciate it. I'm also very willing to buy an already modified cover.
TIA
TBonnin@attbi.com

**Anonymous** · 03-31-2003, 10:14 PM

I don't think just putting fittings in the cover will do anything. There's nothing to force the oil to travel through the cooler. The pressure in that area might force oil into the cooler but I'm pretty sure it won't "flow" through it. Think whatever gets forced in there would just sit.
You'd need something on the inside of the cover to direct the oil in one side of the cooler, sitting right over the incoming passage.
I don't know that I'd tap the gallery behind the head or the oil pressure switch. Think that force the oil (some of it away) to would bypass the engine.
The 1100/1150s are plumbed to allow you to insert a cooler at the end of the oil's path, after it's passed through the engine and just before returning through the filter.

**Anonymous** · 04-01-2003, 06:53 AM

There is a different design in the cover casting that causes the oil to flow properly from what I read. I think the cover from an 1150 is the solution if you want to run the oil lines from the filter cover and get the desired results.

**robinjo** · 04-01-2003, 08:10 AM

When I bought my bike it had a Lockhart oilcooler installed wich took the oil from the oilpressure sensor behind the cilinders under the carbs. I dont have it installed now so i could sell it to you if we exchange the adapter for the oil lines for the stock sending unit.

**Hap Call** · 04-01-2003, 08:21 AM

Originally posted by slopoke

There is a different design in the cover casting that causes the oil to flow properly from what I read. I think the cover from an 1150 is the solution if you want to run the oil lines from the filter cover and get the desired results.

This is true for the 16 valve motors. The 8 valve motors do not have the oil passages on either side of the oil filter so you need to look for a special oil fitting that bolts to the back of the motor where the oil pressure switch is located. Brandon (brs127s) has done a great bit of research into this modification and has done it for his bike. Give him a holler and he can provide you with a wealth of info.

Hap

**Anonymous** · 04-01-2003, 10:52 AM

Originally posted by Hap Call

Originally posted by slopoke

There is a different design in the cover casting that causes the oil to flow properly from what I read. I think the cover from an 1150 is the solution if you want to run the oil lines from the filter cover and get the desired results.

This is true for the 16 valve motors. The 8 valve motors do not have the oil passages on either side of the oil filter so you need to look for a special oil fitting that bolts to the back of the motor where the oil pressure switch is located. Brandon (brs127s) has done a great bit of research into this modification and has done it for his bike. Give him a holler and he can provide you with a wealth of info.

Hap

Hap i was thinking that he wanted to run the oil lines from the oil filter cover by drilling out the existing cover and thought that the 1150 cover could possibly do the trick?????

**Anonymous** · 04-01-2003, 11:53 AM

Originally posted by Hap Call

Originally posted by slopoke

There is a different design in the cover casting that causes the oil to flow properly from what I read. I think the cover from an 1150 is the solution if you want to run the oil lines from the filter cover and get the desired results.

This is true for the 16 valve motors. The 8 valve motors do not have the oil passages on either side of the oil filter so you need to look for a special oil fitting that bolts to the back of the motor where the oil pressure switch is located. Brandon (brs127s) has done a great bit of research into this modification and has done it for his bike. Give him a holler and he can provide you with a wealth of info.

Hap

Won't splitting the oil flow at that point reduce the amount/pressure going to the engine? Just a thought experiment, but I think the backpressure on the cooler line would be less and a large amount of the oil would go the path of least resistence (to the cooler) and by-pass the main engine gallery?
Where on the 1100/1150 all (well almost all) the oil flow is routed through the cooler just before it enters the filter area. Looks to me like the cooler on the 1100/1150 is an extension to the oil's path not a splitting of it.

**Anonymous** · 04-01-2003, 12:22 PM

On the aftermarket filter cover that i have((gs1100e)).,it is believed that prox 1/3 of the oil is redirected through the cooler. Then by adding the 750 oil pump gears, we are suposed to get a 1/3 prox increase in oil flow----I am just repeating what I seem to have read on the forums..

**Hap Call** · 04-01-2003, 01:36 PM

When I refer to the oil passages, or galleys, they are the two large bolts just below the oil filter cover, to the left and right of the cover on the 16 valve 1100. The older 8 valve motors did not have these passages so they are forced to pick up their oil flow from the back of the motor where the oil pressure switch is located.

The GS1150 motor has a special cover that partially restricts the oil galley. This allows some oil to go to the cooler and some to go to the filter. They had to do this because the oil pressure is so low it would not pump the oil up to and through the cooler.

Hap

**brs127s** · 04-01-2003, 02:53 PM

Hi,

As Hap said, an adapter for the switch housing cover is needed for the 8-valve motors. It replaces the current cover and switch. The way it works is that the adapter has a collar that extends almost to the crankcase, where the oil flows up from the pump. The small gap between the collar and crankcase allows some oil to bypass the cooler and flow through its normal pathways. The rest of the oil travels up through the collar and out to the cooler. The oil then returns to the back end of the adapter and flows back into the housing area and its through its normal pathways.

Now, this does create a slight drop in pressure, but it is not significant enough to harm anything. I have permanently installed an oil pressure gauge and have verified this. I also manufactured an inline restricter for my output hose to prevent too much oil from flowing to the cooler.

The only other problem with the adapter setup is the pressure switch and light. By using the adapter, you are unable to reuse the original pressure switch, and are forced to use a new switch. The problem with this is trying to find a very low pressure switch. I have found one that is a 1/2 pound on the low end of the range, but that is still too much when my 850 is warm and idling. The way my adapter is set up, the switch is actually measuring the oil pressure going to the cooler, which is naturally lower than that of the engine.

The original switch/light is basically what auto mechanics refer to as an "idiot light". It has a wire to power the switch and completes the electrical circuit by the plunger grounding to the crankcase. It only takes a miniscule flow of oil to trip the switch and shut the light off. It would be like setting a piece of paper between the crankcase and the plunger on the switch. Even though the paper would not put pressure on the plunger, its presence under the plunger would be enough to break the ground.

Now, before I bought my adapter and cooler from Hap, I thought about finding a second oil filter housing cover and drilling and tapping it to run hoses to and from the cooler. As others have said, there is now way to force the oil to flow through that path. If you have the oil galleries that Hap is talking about, then all you need is to intall the proper fittings, lines, and a cooler and you're set. If you don't have the galleries, watch on ebay for a cooler assembly which uses an adapter at the switch housing. Every once in a while, one comes up for sale. Also, GSR member Chris Dailey made his own adapter for his GS. There is more information in the Tips and Tricks section.

Post: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...pic.php?t=4683

I am currently trying to find the information about the new low pressure switch I am using for someone else. I can't remember the part number for the switch. I do remember that is is for a late 80's/early 90's model BMW car. If I find it I will let everyone know.

**SqDancerLynn1** · 04-01-2003, 10:48 PM

Check http://www.earls.co.uk/bike/09_special_takeoffs.html
look for item # ED30 oil cooler adapter

**saaz** · 04-01-2003, 11:26 PM

I agree with all of the above. My Yoshimura adaptor allows the use of the original oil pressure switch, but I don't know about any others. The cooler on mine runs reasonably hot in most conditions (ie cannot touch it!). I may put on a bigger cooler for next summer (it is approaching winter here)

**redliner1973** · 04-03-2003, 10:49 PM

Since it is in England, i am trying to get a price for it. Will let everyone know if I get a response. :twisted:

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